cant get my clutch bleed any sugestions
05-26-2009, 09:27 PM
#61
The only problem with pulling vacuum from the master with the mitivac is that the air bubbles increase in size. It works great if you can use it on the bleeder but is very difficult to do. It certainly cant hurt if you can get some air out that way as long as you don't mess up the seals with too much vacuum.
One way that we use to get small air bubbles out of the masters on our race motorcycles is to tie a zip tie over the brake lever overnight. The pressure makes any air bubbles very small which helps them pass into the reservoir.
The same concept might be accomplished by blocking the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood.
One way that we use to get small air bubbles out of the masters on our race motorcycles is to tie a zip tie over the brake lever overnight. The pressure makes any air bubbles very small which helps them pass into the reservoir.
The same concept might be accomplished by blocking the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood.
05-26-2009, 10:12 PM
#62
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The only problem with pulling vacuum from the master with the mitivac is that the air bubbles increase in size. It works great if you can use it on the bleeder but is very difficult to do. It certainly cant hurt if you can get some air out that way as long as you don't mess up the seals with too much vacuum.
One way that we use to get small air bubbles out of the masters on our race motorcycles is to tie a zip tie over the brake lever overnight. The pressure makes any air bubbles very small which helps them pass into the reservoir.
The same concept might be accomplished by blocking the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood.
One way that we use to get small air bubbles out of the masters on our race motorcycles is to tie a zip tie over the brake lever overnight. The pressure makes any air bubbles very small which helps them pass into the reservoir.
The same concept might be accomplished by blocking the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood.
05-26-2009, 11:04 PM
#63
Anyone of the big chain stores sell them. Harbor freight sells them too.
This is the one I have...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39522
This is the one I have...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39522
05-27-2009, 02:04 AM
#64
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What happens to your clutch system if needs bleeding? The clutch disengages(unclamps) later and doesn't fully engage(clamp). The question was about point of engagement. Removing air isn't going to change the point of engagement, but it will get rid of the mushy pedal(air being compressed). Some system have an adjustable pushrod or you could shim the master. Go over the pedal freeplay adjustment.
To the OP...I replaced my master but it was a PAIN to get that sucker bled. In the end, I picked up a pressure bleeder and the rest is history. NO pumping that clutch pedal and it makes sure that the reservior stays full. I'm not sure, but you may be able to take the whole master/slave out and bench bleed it - but that would be a last resort.
If we assume the system is properly bled, then its possible a slightly thinner shim might also solve the problem.
05-27-2009, 09:52 AM
#65
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You must never have worked on an F-car clutch before. The engagement point of the clutch ITSELF is not affected by whether the system needs bleeding. However the clutch PEDAL will be lower at this point because it must compress the air in the line before the fluid.
To the OP...I replaced my master but it was a PAIN to get that sucker bled. In the end, I picked up a pressure bleeder and the rest is history. NO pumping that clutch pedal and it makes sure that the reservior stays full. I'm not sure, but you may be able to take the whole master/slave out and bench bleed it - but that would be a last resort.
If we assume the system is properly bled, then its possible a slightly thinner shim might also solve the problem.
To the OP...I replaced my master but it was a PAIN to get that sucker bled. In the end, I picked up a pressure bleeder and the rest is history. NO pumping that clutch pedal and it makes sure that the reservior stays full. I'm not sure, but you may be able to take the whole master/slave out and bench bleed it - but that would be a last resort.
If we assume the system is properly bled, then its possible a slightly thinner shim might also solve the problem.
05-27-2009, 06:40 PM
#66
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well i have a mighty vac but how do u run one of these?? where do u hook up the end of the hose? i have everything put together and read the instructions but doesnt say anything bout bleeding clutches. need some help i guess
05-28-2009, 09:59 PM
#67
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The pressure bleeder I have works the opposite way (and in line with how the system pressure is applied) where it takes fluid from a container and under pressure is pushed through to the slave bleeder.
use this info at your own risk!
good luck!
05-31-2009, 05:30 PM
#69
hahaha....dude not to **** you off or get you mad but the clutch and trans WILL have to come back out...bet ya...whats happenin is the shim....thats prolly not needed...is putting presure on the clutch. Its kind of like slipping the **** out of it. I dont care if the clutch has fifty miles on it, if the slave is over shimed youll kill the clutch...
I will NOT install that shim on any spec. it closes the gap to much then usually after 1000-3000 miles the clutch wears enough the fingers move out an the slave holds preesure on them.
