Drill mod Review: What not to do & End resluts
#21
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If the mod is done on the quick connect hose will the tick Master be the same or is it just a better master and you still have to do the drill mod? Have any of the potental drill mod guys thought of upgrading their shifters? Not just the stick but the whole shifter. I loved the daily driving smoothness of stock but at high rpms at WOT I felt alot of the same issues with the less than perfect high RPM shifts. I went to a Hurst/Billet Plus short throw. I got it from a sponsor for 179.99 with free shipping if I rember right. At first I hated it becuase I lost some of that daily driving smoothness AKA rubber sloppiness. I took out the adjustment springs and have about 200 miles on it and I love it. Feels like a different car at high RPM shifts. If the drill mod works go for it. I had no idea what I was doing and had my shifter changed in an hour and it took care of my issues without messing with getting under and f-body in a driveway.
#24
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most of it is in the resivour. i sucked it out and refilled it, then i pumped the clutch pedal a few times so that the stuff in the lines would cycle, then i changed it again. its doesnt get 100% of it but most of it, im sure there is a way to get it all though.
#27
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instead of drilling the old line, you might check with McLeod or Tick as I know McLeod sells "parts" and their line is not restricted.
I got a 30" line with my McLeod .81 MC for a LT1 car. also had the 90 degree fitting to screw on the end of the braided line with the roll pin male end going into the slave. You should be able to just buy a line specific to your car year by calling one of the two companies.
I got a 30" line with my McLeod .81 MC for a LT1 car. also had the 90 degree fitting to screw on the end of the braided line with the roll pin male end going into the slave. You should be able to just buy a line specific to your car year by calling one of the two companies.
#29
Teching In
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i found that drilling out the 2 holes on the master cylinder to 3/8ths of an inch makes this job an absolute breeze.
buddy and i struggled for 2 hours or so trying to get the master cyl. back in place, we tried putting the master in without the U-bolt then with the U-bolt. the main problem being that the U-bolt gets stuck on the flange unless it goes in completely straight.
with this in mind i thought to open up the holes a bit. grabbed my 3/8ths bit and hogged the holes out (ensuring that i tried it first on the old master cyl. just to make sure it wasn’t too big of a hole) after i opened up the holes slightly the U-bolt had plenty of room to move around the master cylinder and U-bolt almost slid right into place (took a bit of finagling of course)
i will attach pictures once the new clutch line arrives. i had to return the old one and get another one because after i got everything hooked up and went to pressurize and prime the line it leaked at the fitting that’s closest to the master cylinder![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
i hope this might eventually help someone, pm me or reply to this comment with any questions!
buddy and i struggled for 2 hours or so trying to get the master cyl. back in place, we tried putting the master in without the U-bolt then with the U-bolt. the main problem being that the U-bolt gets stuck on the flange unless it goes in completely straight.
with this in mind i thought to open up the holes a bit. grabbed my 3/8ths bit and hogged the holes out (ensuring that i tried it first on the old master cyl. just to make sure it wasn’t too big of a hole) after i opened up the holes slightly the U-bolt had plenty of room to move around the master cylinder and U-bolt almost slid right into place (took a bit of finagling of course)
i will attach pictures once the new clutch line arrives. i had to return the old one and get another one because after i got everything hooked up and went to pressurize and prime the line it leaked at the fitting that’s closest to the master cylinder
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
i hope this might eventually help someone, pm me or reply to this comment with any questions!
The following 2 users liked this post by Vorteck:
JoshHefnerX (04-24-2020), wannafbody (06-21-2020)
#30
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Hey guys I just got another 97 SS Camaro and I'm replacing the clutch and hydraulics with (AC Delco Clutch Master cylinder 12559912).
Does this have the restrictor in the line and is the drill mod required on the 93-97 Camaro/Firebird Clutch Master cylinder?
Does this have the restrictor in the line and is the drill mod required on the 93-97 Camaro/Firebird Clutch Master cylinder?
#31
Teching In
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I assume you would need to do the drill mod with the AC delco line only because it’s the stock size. if you’ve got the money, just buy the tick adjustable master cylinder. it’s so worth the money in every way. msg me if you’ve got any questions
#33
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The clutch going to the floor is usually a dead give away that the the the pressure plate fingers are being pushed to far, essentially pushing the fingers over center, once the fingers are over center centrifical force keeps them there until the RPM of the engine decreases. I drove an NHRA super/stock D 427 camaro in the seventies and we had to put a pedal limiter on it to prevent that. Also had to put one on my 68 375 hp chevelle street car they really liked to rev, too bad the stock single valve springs didn`t like it much!
The following users liked this post:
JoshHefnerX (04-27-2021)