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clutch not dissengaging?

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Old 06-14-2009, 01:54 PM
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Default clutch not dissengaging?

Alright guys i went to the track recently and this is when the issue started. Ive put maybe 400 miles on the car since then. I got home and when leaving stop lights, it would chatter a fair amount. Now its a lil better but deff chatters more than before that night. It also was very hard to get in each gear when the clutch pedal was depressed. So i thought synchro's, but when i turn the car off, its smooth as anything going in every gear. So i changed the hydraulic fluid and its a little better now. But i have to literally push the pedal ALL the way to the carpet( by that i mean push as hard as i possibly can to get it fully depressed). The pedal pressure is good and it always returns. But the instant i start to take pressure off the pedal, my car starts to move. It is also pretty darn hard to get into reverse. (for a few times i would shut the car off put it in reverse and then push really hard to ensure it was disengaged and then start it again). All of this leads me to believe that my clutch isnt fully disengaging or it BARELY disengaging.

clutch is a clutchmasters stage 3 custom with only a few thousand. held great at the track and still does.

Should i put a small shim behind the slave cylinder or is it just a bad slave? My hydraulics are all 02 versions.
Old 06-14-2009, 02:29 PM
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Sounds like you need an adjustable master cyl.
Old 06-15-2009, 09:15 AM
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I have a few questions for you: I assume that the clutch pedal was fine, in terms of engagement point previously. Is this the case? If you pump the pedal does the engagement point change? Have you noticed any evidence of a leak from the slave or master cylinder? Have you checked your hydraulic fluid? Is it low? Dark or discolored? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,
Old 06-15-2009, 10:06 AM
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The symptons you are talking about are GENERALLY hydraulic related. Hard to get into gear, but have to push pedal through floor, and when release car starts to move immediately, MC or slave problem. Clutch COULD be getting worn. But let me tell you a personal experience of my own:

My Cummins truck with a 6 speed is hydraulic slave setup. 160K of HARD miles. Everything is all fine and dandy, no problems what so ever. Come to a stop one day at red light. Push in clutch pedal. Waiting for light to run green. As it turns green, I JUST start to release pedal and truck starts to move. And Im like...hmmmm, never done that before. Anywho, as I go to shift into 2nd (actually 3rd since I start in 2nd gear in my truck), REAL hard to get into gear, then 4th, same thing. Come to stop, and I have to floor the pedal to get clutch to disengage. Again, like that never happens. So, after a few miles of driving and real hard to get into gear. Get to my house. Turn off truck. Decide to take to my shop. WAS HOPING clutch had jsut got hot, so I let cool down for ahwile so I can get to shop. Nope. Go to start with it in neutral, but clutch will not disengage to put into gear. End of story. Replaced MC and slave, and fine ever since. My point is, there were NO signs before that. Just one day, bam. That is usually a hydraulic thing. Sure, a clutch CAN just go like that as well, but more often a hydraulic thing.
Old 06-15-2009, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
I have a few questions for you: I assume that the clutch pedal was fine, in terms of engagement point previously. Is this the case? If you pump the pedal does the engagement point change? Have you noticed any evidence of a leak from the slave or master cylinder? Have you checked your hydraulic fluid? Is it low? Dark or discolored? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,

It was fine before that track day, i liked where it was at and it was never this hard to get into gear. If I pump the pedal(not full pumps from top to bottom, just applying some light pumping motion at the top) it does seem to release better, i usually do this at lights for making it easy to go into 1st and also when i need to get it into reverse(which is still very hard regardless). No leaks, the fluid was dark but i changed it and even then it was only grayish.
Old 06-15-2009, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen414
The symptons you are talking about are GENERALLY hydraulic related. Hard to get into gear, but have to push pedal through floor, and when release car starts to move immediately, MC or slave problem. Clutch COULD be getting worn. But let me tell you a personal experience of my own:

My Cummins truck with a 6 speed is hydraulic slave setup. 160K of HARD miles. Everything is all fine and dandy, no problems what so ever. Come to a stop one day at red light. Push in clutch pedal. Waiting for light to run green. As it turns green, I JUST start to release pedal and truck starts to move. And Im like...hmmmm, never done that before. Anywho, as I go to shift into 2nd (actually 3rd since I start in 2nd gear in my truck), REAL hard to get into gear, then 4th, same thing. Come to stop, and I have to floor the pedal to get clutch to disengage. Again, like that never happens. So, after a few miles of driving and real hard to get into gear. Get to my house. Turn off truck. Decide to take to my shop. WAS HOPING clutch had jsut got hot, so I let cool down for ahwile so I can get to shop. Nope. Go to start with it in neutral, but clutch will not disengage to put into gear. End of story. Replaced MC and slave, and fine ever since. My point is, there were NO signs before that. Just one day, bam. That is usually a hydraulic thing. Sure, a clutch CAN just go like that as well, but more often a hydraulic thing.

Its not really hard in any other gear, just 1st and reverse for the most part, but it has definitely gotten harder all around. I agree with you, it seems to be hydraulics.

What the symptoms be if i needed to put a slave shim in or what would putting one in accomplish?
Old 06-17-2009, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryans99ls1
Its not really hard in any other gear, just 1st and reverse for the most part, but it has definitely gotten harder all around. I agree with you, it seems to be hydraulics.

What the symptoms be if i needed to put a slave shim in or what would putting one in accomplish?
I don't get the logic here. It was fine before the track so why would you now need a shim? It shows all of the symptoms of air in the system or warping or some other damage to the clutch so that it is not releasing - how did you bleed it? The fact that it is now chattering seems to indicate clutch problem also. I would bleed it well, see if you get full pedal back and if not I think you're going to need to pull it and see what's going on.



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