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Frustrated w/Mcleod Master = half pedal 20 mi. after bleeding?

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Old 07-04-2009, 11:31 PM
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Default Frustrated w/Mcleod Master = half pedal 20 mi. after bleeding?

I have, I think, the older style Mcleod Master Cylinder. I just installed a new clutch 600 miles ago and bled the system at the same time. Before I bled the system, the first 50% of pedal travel was limp. Afterwards, pedal feel was good for about 20 miles but then went back to half pedal again? After 300 miles I only had about 25% pedal travel and had to push the pedal to the floor to get the clutch to engage. So... I just bled it again two nights ago really well with an air compressor, had 100% pedal feel afterwards, all new fluid, felt great. After 20 miles I am again at 50% pedal travel??!!

What could be causing this? I have an APS Turbo kit and the manifold is only inches from the Master Cylinder line. My friend thinks the line may be getting hot and causing the fluid to boil introducing air into the system. It sounds good in theory but is this just a result of an older style inferior design? Does it need to be rebuilt or should I just replace it with a new one/different one? I will wrap it and bleed it again but I don't expect it to go away. Has anyone else experienced this?
Old 07-05-2009, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SStolen
I have, I think, the older style Mcleod Master Cylinder. I just installed a new clutch 600 miles ago and bled the system at the same time. Before I bled the system, the first 50% of pedal travel was limp. Afterwards, pedal feel was good for about 20 miles but then went back to half pedal again? After 300 miles I only had about 25% pedal travel and had to push the pedal to the floor to get the clutch to engage. So... I just bled it again two nights ago really well with an air compressor, had 100% pedal feel afterwards, all new fluid, felt great. After 20 miles I am again at 50% pedal travel??!!

What could be causing this? I have an APS Turbo kit and the manifold is only inches from the Master Cylinder line. My friend thinks the line may be getting hot and causing the fluid to boil introducing air into the system. It sounds good in theory but is this just a result of an older style inferior design? Does it need to be rebuilt or should I just replace it with a new one/different one? I will wrap it and bleed it again but I don't expect it to go away. Has anyone else experienced this?

Well, that (the heat) can certainly be a factor, yes. I have a customer that I sold a clutch to (who has a LS motor stuffed in a smaller car) and his line runs right next to his headers. Having same problem. I got him to wrap his line with header wrap, and that help out ALOT he said, but not 100%. He then wrapped his headers in that area along with his line, and that took care of it
So, you can start there.
Old 07-07-2009, 02:45 AM
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That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you!!
Old 07-07-2009, 06:25 AM
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I had all kinds of trouble bleeding mine. I used the C clips with rubber insulator to move and hold the clutch line. out of the way of the heat. I end up using a mity Vac to suck all the air out. I found that my o ring that goews into the slave was bad.

Last edited by RsSean; 07-07-2009 at 06:33 AM.



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