what could be wrong?
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On The Tree
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what could be wrong? I decided to change the tranny fluid in my car yesterday before i take it to the track tomorrow, and after i got everything buttoned up i took it for a spin around town. well on the way home i done a high speed run 1st thru 4th and my transmission grinded going into every gear but only at high rpms. The fluid that i used was castrol ATF because that was all advance auto had in stock other than the advance auto brand. So today i called around and found an auto store that had mobil 1 atf synthetic. i went and pick up four quarts. drained the castrol put the mobil 1 in and took it for a spin hoping to have cured the problem, but it's still there so i freakin out like what the hell my tranny worked fine before i changed the fluid now that i put new fluid in it, it grinds now. so if anyone can shed some light on the subject it would be greatly appreciated
I've been reading some stickies, is it possible that air could be in the system and causing this problem? If so how do i go about bleeding the system?
I've been reading some stickies, is it possible that air could be in the system and causing this problem? If so how do i go about bleeding the system?
Last edited by onebadZ28; Jul 22, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
Well, doubtful air got into the system by just changing the fluid. What I would like to know is, BEFORE you changed your fluid, when was the last time you went through the gears like that? Reason I ask is, you COULD have another problem, and just not realized it because you have not shifted the tranny like that in a long time, and just changing the fluid is a coincidence.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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well, i go thru the gears at high rpms frequently, i done a few high rpm shifts on the way to get the tranny fluid, and it shifted fine. but now it seems i put new fluid in and messed my tranny up lol that seems *** up for some reason. This sucks real bad because myself along with several other f-body owners are going to the track tomorrow, and it looks like i'll be in the stands watching and wondering what the hell is wrong with my car
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On The Tree
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with a little more driving i'll take note of when this occurs most often whether warm or cold. right now i'm in the process of bleeding the clutch. becuase the other night me and my buddy where riding around and i rev'd the car up pretty high sitting still when the clutch pushed in and he said he seen my speedometer go up to like 20 mph. this was before the fluid change. is this a systom of the clutch not fully disengaging? If so why would this occur after the fluid change? I do have long tube headers on the car, but this problem just started after the fluid change. As far as the fluid lines go i've never moved them or re-routed them in anyway.
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On The Tree
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well i finally got through bleeding the hydro system, and now my clutch pedal is soft up top, and then starts to engage about 2 to 2.5 inch off the floor what the hell i barely can even drive the thing let alone powershift like i would at the track so what now do i need a new master cylinder come on guys help me out.
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well i finally got through bleeding the hydro system, and now my clutch pedal is soft up top, and then starts to engage about 2 to 2.5 inch off the floor what the hell i barely can even drive the thing let alone powershift like i would at the track so what now do i need a new master cylinder come on guys help me out.
OK, let's do this, one thing at a time.
Let's bleed your setup:
Top off reservoir. Put car up on jackstands. Have your friend hop in drivers seat. You under the car (sorry
) Have him apply pressure to pedal, you crack teh slave bleeder open, and right before pedal gets to floor, close bleeder. Have him release pedal. And do it again. After 3-4 times of this, check reservoir. Top off if necessary. Do these steps until you have a nice firm pedal/no more air spitting out bleeder.About your tranny fluid....you sure you have ENOUGH fluid in? Are you filling through the "fill hole" or shifter?
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becuase the other night me and my buddy where riding around and i rev'd the car up pretty high sitting still when the clutch pushed in and he said he seen my speedometer go up to like 20 mph. this was before the fluid change. is this a systom of the clutch not fully disengaging?
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On The Tree
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ok i'll go and bleed the system again tomorrow. As far as the tranny fluid goes i filled the tranny till fluid dizzled out of the fill hole. The tranny held right at 4 quarts of oil. also when i took the car for a test drive even though the pedal was engaging 2 to 2.5 inch from the floor the tranny only grinds while trying to shift into thrid gear at high rpms instead of all gears. once i parked the car from being fed up with it i just started pumping the clutch pedal, and then the pedal feels almost normal it's starting to engage where it use to, but i have not drove it yet to see if it still grinds. should i be giving tick-performance a call?
Last edited by onebadZ28; Jul 24, 2009 at 09:31 PM.
ok i'll go and bleed the system again tomorrow. As far as the tranny fluid goes i filled the tranny till fluid dizzled out of the fill hole. The tranny held right at 4 quarts of oil. also when i took the car for a test drive even though the pedal was engaging 2 to 2.5 inch from the floor the tranny only grinds while trying to shift into thrid gear at high rpms instead of all gears. once i parked the car from being fed up with it i just started pumping the clutch pedal, and then the pedal feels almost normal it's starting to engage where it use to, but i have not drove it yet to see if it still grinds. should i be giving tick-performance a call?
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what causes keys, fork pads, syncros etc to go bad? would i need a complete rebuild to get just these parts fixed? just some curious question that i have. I plan to get a rebuild strength package to handle the future upgrades that i do anyway. i just hate this had to happen at such an unexpected time, but i guess that's the way it goes lol. you got to pay to play.
what causes keys, fork pads, syncros etc to go bad? would i need a complete rebuild to get just these parts fixed? just some curious question that i have. I plan to get a rebuild strength package to handle the future upgrades that i do anyway. i just hate this had to happen at such an unexpected time, but i guess that's the way it goes lol. you got to pay to play.
Yes, you can JUST replace the 3rd gear synchro if so choose (is actually 3/4 setup, but you don't have to do 1/2 5/6, etc)...if you want to to save money.
Would I recommend that? Not really...yanking a tranny out, tearing it apart is not some quicky "oil Change" type of thing.
here is what I would do if I were you:
If money is THAT tight, that you can not afford all of the parts necessary to do a rebuild right...take it easy on teh tranny, try not to shift it hard/abuse it, and save some money, buy some parts here/there, and THEN do teh rebuild.
But, one more time though.....it DOES HAPPEN ONLY IN 3RD GEAR, right?
One more thing...try this....Pennzoil Synchromesh (hard to find) tranny fluid. It is a little bit thicker tranny fluid, and MAY help the shifting some if not too bad.
There have been quite a few people that have used it here on teh site with success, and might be worth a shot at this point before you try to rebuild it, ya know?
The only experience I have with teh Pennzoil Synchromesh is in my Cummins NV5600 6 speed manual tranny.
Might want to do a search on it here in teh forum, but I do know that some have used it and like it.
There have been quite a few people that have used it here on teh site with success, and might be worth a shot at this point before you try to rebuild it, ya know?
The only experience I have with teh Pennzoil Synchromesh is in my Cummins NV5600 6 speed manual tranny.
Might want to do a search on it here in teh forum, but I do know that some have used it and like it.
I had the same problem too, i had broken the 3-4 shift fork. Like GEN 414 if its too expensive for you just replace the 3-4 shift fork with a steel one and replace the synchro blocking rings while your at it. I did this without knowing how to rebuild a t56 but thats what i did to save money. Its been 3 years and now that i have a 383 stroker its still going without no problems. Take time and check everything if your gonna drop your tranny, check your master clutch cylinder, slave cylinder and hydraulic line throw out bearing. Just a thought, Good luck man
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it. yes the tranny only grinds shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear high rpms only. really strange considering it was grinding 1st thru 4th and maybe even 5th and 6th i don't know didn't make it that far lol. As far as the rebuild goes i have the money to do it i was just wanting a monster clutch instead. the car is not a daily driver so i'm not hard pressed to get it back on the road right this minute so that is a good thing.
I wanted to show some pics of a tranny I opened up teh day before yesterday. Customer tranny, was not really having any problems with it, just time to strengthen it up some. This tranny was rebuilt less than 5K miles ago by another company 
This will give you an idea of a "damaged fork pad"
"Gunk" (again, less than 5K miles)
Mainshaft:
This will give you an idea of a "damaged fork pad"
"Gunk" (again, less than 5K miles)
Mainshaft: