I swapped it out yesterday, bleeding it today.

 

Updates?

 

How did this turn out?

You asked earlier, and I didn't see it til now, but I am not running a Tick master. I'm running out of options and I'm tired of driving my truck to work in this nice fall weather. Did swapping the master help?

 

Bumpin it back up! I just finished installing a new slave cylinder since several people told me that could be causing my problems but no luck. So that only leaves the tick master or the textralia clutch to be causing the problems. Ill be calling tick in the morning. Im getting very fed up with this!

 

Reg, if you want to try another clutch just let me know and I will be happy to help you. I know how frustrating it can be to have an issue and not be able to find the solution. I wish you luck in getting this all worked out! Thanks,

 

I am having similar troubles with gear engagement as well with the car running. A little back round:

Had the car apart to rebuild the motor and removed both engine and tranny. I didnt mess with the hydraulics at all, just unplugged the quick connect on the slave.

I purchased a new GM slave to go into the transmission and didnt do anything to it other then bolt it to the tranny with the new TO bearing. I really didnt know if there were any procedures / bench bleed process for it
and figured that since the hydraulic system is a closed system, that any air would be removed during traditional bleeding.

We did the traditional two man bleeding and relieved most/all of the air out of the system and the tranny engaged all gears perfectly.

One day driving around I had some 2010 camaro messing with me so I had a few spirited miles just driving and a little racing. During that time my clutch pedal started to stick to the floor a few times at WOT. But still drove normal and shifted fine.

With that happening I figured there was a small amount of air in the system so I purchased a Mity Vac and pulled vacuum through the reservoir. Several small air bubbles came through the line, I did this several times until there were no more bubbles.

Well after doing that with the Mity Vac I hopped in the car and now the car wont go into any gear while running with the clutch pressed. It has normal pedal pressure. I tried the mity vac several more times last night and its the same deal, some bubbles at first and then none and still no engagement.

My main question is that I am confused about cracking the bleeder screw while pulling vacuum to the reservoir. Wouldn't that allow air into the system? I think I may be reading your statement incorrectly by "opening both ends". And believe you are saying to do it separately and not at the same time.

Any suggestions to my situation? I think I may just have someone help me and do the two man bleeding again. The clutch is a stock ls6 clutch and the tranny has about 55k miles. Unsure of the mileage on the clutch but I'd guess around 3-5k from the way it looked.

Any help will be appreciated. I have searched this topic for a while (about a week) and this is the first post that I have replied to since it best fits my situation.

 

NHRA...You are not supposed to crack the bleeder when pulling vacuum from the reservoir as this will allow air into the system. I suggested that you bleed from both the slave and the reservoir...but you should not try to do both at the same time! Give bleeding another try and let me know what you find. Thanks!

 

Yea I knew that trying to do it at the same time didnt sound like a good idea, but just wanted to make sure. lol Im going to try to do the traditional two man bleed either tonight or tomorrow night. Have you heard of the bleeder screw on the slave loosening causing an air problem? I have a feeling thats what my problem is due to the symptoms. Thanks!

 

If the bleeder screw were to loosen it could certainly allow air to be injested by the slave.

 

Well I bled the hell out of the system and slave. Did the hole in the tunnel to access the bleeder screw. Still no luck. With the clutch in while running, trying to put it in gear the car lurks forward. I did the flywheel check and its difficult to push. Maybe the clutch welded itself? I dunno.

 

Just my .02

You might have damaged your MC. I am amazed tick hasn't posted on this. I have read before that they prefer you not to use a mightyvac on there mc's and if you do not to go over 10hg/in.

If you get the chance to pull the clutch out you can assemble the clutch to the flywheel and test it on a bench press.

Have you cooked the fluid before??? If your fluid was black at any time you could have boiled it and have some restrictions in the line.

 

Sounds like the master to me. I had the EXACT same problem with my McCleod master. I would try and mityvac it and it pulled a steady stream of bubbles. I put my ear next to the master while pushing the pedal by hand, and sure enough you could hear the fluid leaking past the seal. Went back to a stock master and it worked fine. Then shortly after I decided to get the seal and rebuild the McCloed. About 1000 miles later, same thing, but this time you couldn't hear the fluid moving. I swapped the stocker back in and all is well. After the swap, I pulled the McCleod apart to verify the seal was jacked up, and sure enough it was. Long story short, try a stocker!!

 

my T/A does the same thing (LS7 clutch, 01-02 Slave, RAM Master). Its not hard to throw into gear though. But if I look outside the D/S door and focus on a small rock on the ground, i will move about 3mm everytime it goes into gear. and it doesnt move when i rev it up in gear

 

I want to make sure you all know that I still have 2002 STOCK hydraulics. It is getting up there in mileage tho. about 56k ( which is the same amount of miles on the car, 400miles on new motor) I know it can only be one of two things. The slave or the master. And I just put in a brand new GM slave. I guess I will have to buy a stock master (cant afford a TICK although I want one so bad) and put that in soon.

Yes I have cooked the fluid before. I bought it and drove it then changed the fluid after driving it on the track, local meets and on the highway. It was black when I changed it. I dont think it was ever changed the whole time the other person had it.

So it would just be a restriction in the line then? I dont want to buy another master and have it be the brand new slave I just put in. Pedal pressure is fine but I guess that doesnt necessarily mean their couldnt be a restriction.

 

Need a little more info bud.

Pedal still sticking to the floor at all?

If you push the pedal in can you see fluid come into the reservoir?

have you done the drillout mod?

I am guessing u probably have a master issue due to the fact you just put a new slave in.

Or your bleeding the car wrong and are letting air into the system somehow.

 

No the pedal isnt sticking to the floor at all. I havent checked if fluid is going into the reservoir since im going to need someone else to help to do that. Havent ever had the master out so didnt have an opportunity to do the drill mod.

I dont think I am bleeding it wrong. Push pedal to the floor, crack bleeder, let air/fluid come out, close bleeder. Bring pedal up slowly, push down pedal, crack bleeder again and repeat till pedal pressure comes back.

I think I might just bite the bullet and get the Tick master. I dont want to get another stock one and have the same **** happen.

Thanks for the help