Lately my cars been having trouble going into gear while running. Its not dragging cause when I rev it up while in gear it doesnt creep forward at all. Heres the part I dont understand; It moves forward if i push the clutch in and immediately try to put it in gear. If I hold the clutch in for like 15 seconds then put it into gear it doesnt move forward at all and goes in very easily.

The fluid is clear and I bled the system with a mity vac for the first time so im 90% sure the system is free of air. Anyone have any ideas?

 

I really do not understand what you are saying???

You are saying once in gear, your car does not move forward when you release teh pedal? More than likely, your clutch has failed. Is teh tranny making any noise, or did anything happen to make you think the tranny took a dump? When did this start? Normally a clutch will not just all of a sudden, fail either...

 

Ill try to explain better. The car has a textralia oz700 clutch with a tick performance master and gm slave all with roughly 2,000 miles on it. If im in a flat parking lot and I push down the clutch pedal then put the shifter into 1st(or any) gear the car will move forward like the clutch isn't disengaging completely. But if I do the clutch test (holding the pedal down with the car in 1st gear while revving to 6k rpm) the car doesnt move at all.

 

Anyone?

 

It's possible that your issue is still relative to hydraulic issues; most likely air that is being passed through the system under pressure. If you depress the pedal quickly and try to put the car in gear it will creep because pressure isn't great enough to fully actuate the clutch. Then, as you keep your foot on the pedal for a longer period of time the air is getting into a location that is less impacting to fluid transfer and this allows the clutch to more fully release. Think of it this way, the fluid is moving through the system in a lazy manner and the longer you push the pedal the greater amount of time you are allowing it to move into an area where it has less impact on pressure.

 

Ah, ok, better. Well, SOUNDS like a hydraulic issue, OR, you have teh MC adjusted incorrectly, and it is not fulling disengaging the PP.



Yep, agree.

 

Well Im going to bleed this damn thing till Im blue in the face. Hopefully it works.

Thanks guys!

 

any results?

 

Nope, only more headache. I took the mityvac up to 17hg and I get a constant stream of bubbles. It looks as if its pulling air from outside the system even though there are no leaks and it never loses fluid. Plus the pedal feels great just like it always has.

Ill probably take it to a shop if I can find a lsx shop somewhat local that I trust.

 

It's odd that you are pulling a constant stream of bubbles especially since the pedal has been consistent. Typically this much air in the system will cause the pedal feel to be quite spongy. Of course if the line you were using to apply vacuum had a crack or wasn't sealed to the bleeder fully it could potentially allow air in after the fluid had left the bleeder and entered the line? It's just a thought. Unfortunately this is one of the down sides of trouble shooting over the internet...no matter how much experience one may have if you can't put your eyes and hands on the car you may never find the problem. Keep us posted. BTW, where are you located? Perhaps I can help you locate a good facility.

 

Everytime I use the mityvac I follow one of the write-ups that I found on here. Ill find it later when Ive got more time but it says to stick it inside the reservoir and pull the vacuum from there so Im not even messing with the bleeder screw.

Im located in Florence KY btw, its mostly mustang shops around here

 

I just made a thread last night and I am having the exact same issue you are having. Update this thread if you find out what it is if you don't mind.

I've had a problem using mityvac's as well. I put a new slave in when I swapped clutches, hooked up the mity, pumped it up and got nothing at all, no bubbles, nothing. So I'm guessing I bunked up the process somewhere and there is air in the system even though I've driven just fine for 2500 miles this way.

 

Reg, I understand the mentality that there isn't a need to crank the bleeder but you have to remember that air can be found throughout the system and by opening both ends you will be better able to fully bleed the system. I know there are different suggestions and methods relative to bleeding. I am simply providing rec's based on experience.

UCA, With the vac connected are you not able to draw fluid either? If so then you either the system is inundated with massive amounts of air or you aren't seeing complete movement of the fluid from the master to the slave. If there were no fluid transfer then you wouldn't be able to drive the car so this is extremely unlikely as the cause. Please confirm or deny the presence of fluid. I could be misunderstanding you. Thanks,

 

My bad, early morning thinking is a little slow today. There was indeed fluid in the reservoir and in the mityvac line when I pumped it up, what I meant by 'nothing at all' was no bubbles at all. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

No worries at all...it is early here too. But it's Friday so at least we have that going for us! When you have your issues does it affect all gears or just one or two?

 

My tick master seems to want to pull air above 10hg/in of vacuum, but its been quite consistent for over a month. If I leave it at 10 and pump it, its fine no air, but go past that and it seems something doesn't like too much vacuum and opens up. My old master despite being able to hold as high as 17hg/in of vacuum with no air bubbles was taking a **** on me and not fulling releasing the clutch. Determined I daily drove it a little too much over 2 years and the seals finally went in the master.

 

I generally suggest 12-15hg/in so it is interesting that more than 10in/hg would pull a seal through allowing for bypass. I wonder if one of the guys from Tick can comment on this. Perhaps they have a suggested vacuum pressure maximum for their master. If so I haven't seen this referenced but it's possible that I missed it.

 

UCA: Are you using a tick master cylinder as well?

Spec: I will try using the mityvac and cracking the bleeder as soon as I get a night free and a buddy to help. I appreciate all the suggestions!

I talked to a guy at the track tonight who's car is having the exact same problem and hes also running a tick master. Im going to swap it out for a stocker Ive got lying around to see if that changes anything.

 

Try finding a shop that has a power bleeder.

 

Did you swap the masters out? If so did you notice any change?