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Monster clutch question

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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Default Monster clutch question

My Monster level 3.5 is fully broke in now. But I've noticed under hard launching and running through the gears when I'm done and I slow back down the clutch pedal starts to become a little soft. Then after it's driven around a little longer everything goes back to the normal feel of the pedal. Is this normal or should it not go soft ever ? If it's not normal what would be causing this ? Thanks
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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Possibly burned clutch fluid... did you replace the slave at the same time? Either way, change the fluid and see what happens.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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on the subject, would there be any benefit to take the "cheaper" route and run braided lines to the slave instead of the stock lines?

I noticed a soft pedal on mine (stock clutch tho which I think is letting go) after getting hard on it a couple days ago
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Iv got a monster stage 3 and mines like that also. Im going to do the "drill mod" and new fluids..that should fix it I hope..
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 223HAWK
Iv got a monster stage 3 and mines like that also. Im going to do the "drill mod" and new fluids..that should fix it I hope..
Well I have a Tick adj. MC and that's suppose to eliminate the need for the drill mod. I'm going to change my fluid and see what happens. If anyone else knows anything please post it.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Did you replace the slave cylinder at the same time?
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryanmgaspard
Did you replace the slave cylinder at the same time?
I'm not sure, I bought the 3.5 kit.. does it come with the slave ? Let me research it a little and ask my buddy that put it in. He's bad *** and know's how to work on these cars. I thought for sure he said it did but let me get back to you in the morning for sure..
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Yea it did have the slave, so now I'm doing brakes next week so I'll just wait to change the fluid then and see if it fixes it. I'm also going to wrap the lines with some kind of heat resistant material. I was looking at the lines last night and one is VERY close to the manifold so I know that has to be boiling the fluid at times. That could be causing my problem right there also.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 02:24 PM
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Here's a good read for you...

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Definetly sounds like fluid/hydraulic issues, give us a call if the problem persist.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 08:44 PM
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Default What is drill mod?

What is the drill mod? And where is the bleed for the slave,I want to put new fliud in.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 19trans79am
What is the drill mod? And where is the bleed for the slave,I want to put new fliud in.
There is a sticky at the top of the manual transmission forum for the drill mod. You basically take it off the car and drill a bigger hole through the line. For me, the drill mod did not work. I ended up spending the extra money for a tick master cylinder. I replace the clutch, master, and slave all at once so I can't say if just replacing the master with a tick unit will solve your problem.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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Pedal goes soft, is a hydro problem for sure...no doubt...check your MC line and where it is routed next to your headers/exhaust. Probaly either right next to, or on top of it, and heating teh fluid in doing so...
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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What would be the best stuff to use to wrap the lines with that are close to the manifolds / headers ?
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Just go to a local auto parts store prefer a NAPA, they had a excellent wrap i used. Tell them exactly what you are using it for.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen414
Pedal goes soft, is a hydro problem for sure...no doubt...check your MC line and where it is routed next to your headers/exhaust. Probaly either right next to, or on top of it, and heating teh fluid in doing so...
sweet, maybe my clutch will last a little longer...
Originally Posted by Chris05ssTruck
Just go to a local auto parts store prefer a NAPA, they had a excellent wrap i used. Tell them exactly what you are using it for.
I wouldnt bank on them. I would just get standard header wrap or the sticky back heat reflective stuff. I've had a bad experience with ALL auto parts stores. I asked a guy at Napa; "need a trans mount for a T-56"... "whats a T-56?" .... he wasnt a young guy either
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 08:58 AM
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I didn't notice this being asked so did you do a full bleed of the hydraulics when you put it back together? I would unplug the master line and test to make sure the pedal is like a rock (so you know there isn't something wrong with the master), then gravity bleed the master with about 1/4 of a bottle of fluid, then plug it in and do a traditional bleed on the whole system using a good portion of the rest of the bottle. Crack the bleeder, have someone push the pedal down, tighten the bleeder as it's approaching full depression of the pedal. Check your reservoir level and top off every two cracks.
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