T-56 Magnum Vs. TR6060
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#23
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BRD-PREY some questions I was hoping you might have some answers to as you seem very knowledgeable about these transmissions.
The $2800.00 price for the T56Magnum is out the door with no core charge?
Would the shifter location line up with a 96 SS Camaro?
Is it easy to find the clutch disc etc to fit an LT1 because of the different spline?
Thanks
Brad
The $2800.00 price for the T56Magnum is out the door with no core charge?
Would the shifter location line up with a 96 SS Camaro?
Is it easy to find the clutch disc etc to fit an LT1 because of the different spline?
Thanks
Brad
Ed
#24
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The previous post was regarding racing! If someone were to use the trans for racing, the Viper spec T56 would be the way to go in my opinion. The TR6060 is not very forgiving trans for racing. I have seen the insides of many T56 that has seen 1/4 mile abuse and let me tell you, they hold up better than most people think.
On a side note, I know few people pushing more than 800R RWHP/RWTQ that distroyed the T56. On one, the input shaft gear (also 4th gear) and the cluster gear were sheared off. On the other, where the extension shaft meets the cluster gear were sheared off! Two of those people swapped to the C6 Z06 TR6060/C6 Z06 diff and have had very good results so far.
One last thing, the F body T56 has the 30 splined conversion with the modified Viper shaft but you can also upgrade the C5 T56 with the C6 Z06 30 splined shaft.
On a side note, I know few people pushing more than 800R RWHP/RWTQ that distroyed the T56. On one, the input shaft gear (also 4th gear) and the cluster gear were sheared off. On the other, where the extension shaft meets the cluster gear were sheared off! Two of those people swapped to the C6 Z06 TR6060/C6 Z06 diff and have had very good results so far.
One last thing, the F body T56 has the 30 splined conversion with the modified Viper shaft but you can also upgrade the C5 T56 with the C6 Z06 30 splined shaft.
Here is the breakdown.
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Kevlar Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* 31 Spline Shaft Conversion
# Custom Shortened 31 spline Mainshaft
# Custom machined tailhousing
# Upgraded output shaft bushing
# Upgraded seal
# 31 spline slip yoke
# Modified Speed Reluctor
Last edited by Haans249; 12-21-2009 at 06:49 AM.
#26
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He said that a good comparison between the two is the following: When shortening the Viper mainshaft, the splines are cut down quite a bit and slip yolk only has a limited amount of spline on the mainshaft to engage. With this new 31 spline shaft, the splines run further down the shaft allowing the yolk to be fully engaged and even bottom out without running past the splines.
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Cost me the same amount as it would have cost to get my transmission done with the Viper 30 spline conversion Appariently, its one of the first conversions to be done in the country with this shaft. Used to be a sponsor on this site, but got too busy and had to pull back. He is going to be getting some more help and plans on coming back here again when he can keep up. He has another done that is holding up very nicely, I'm the second one. Should be a very nice alternative to the Viper conversions that are being done and hold a bit more power.
He said that a good comparison between the two is the following: When shortening the Viper mainshaft, the splines are cut down quite a bit and slip yolk only has a limited amount of spline on the mainshaft to engage. With this new 31 spline shaft, the splines run further down the shaft allowing the yolk to be fully engaged and even bottom out without running past the splines.
He said that a good comparison between the two is the following: When shortening the Viper mainshaft, the splines are cut down quite a bit and slip yolk only has a limited amount of spline on the mainshaft to engage. With this new 31 spline shaft, the splines run further down the shaft allowing the yolk to be fully engaged and even bottom out without running past the splines.
#30
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Just looking at the two mainshafts side by side the 31 spline is much beefier compared to the Viper shaft. There is more material throughout the whole shaft then just an additional spline. The gears are also wider. From what I saw, there would definitely be more strength, unless its made out of a lesser material or something.
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#31
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Just looking at the two mainshafts side by side the 31 spline is much beefier compared to the Viper shaft. There is more material throughout the whole shaft then just an additional spline. The gears are also wider. From what I saw, there would definitely be more strength, unless its made out of a lesser material or something.
#32
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How would that translate to more strength? Just because I have not seen one fail doesn't mean that one has, or that the larger shaft is not stronger.
I'm sure what you're eluding to is that its overkill, and yes it is. I have no problem with that since it cost me the same.
I'm sure what you're eluding to is that its overkill, and yes it is. I have no problem with that since it cost me the same.
Last edited by Haans249; 12-21-2009 at 07:38 PM.
#33
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Perhaps the point is that if Viper shafts are all you'll ever need, why would you put a HEAVIER shaft in there if it costs the same? This is rotating weight... if the thing is thicker with larger gears, its undoutedly heavier.
If 31 Spline = Unbreakable and Viper = Unbreakble + Lighter, then I would say its NOT a good deal for the same price.
If 31 Spline = Unbreakable and Viper = Unbreakble + Lighter, then I would say its NOT a good deal for the same price.
#34
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Perhaps the point is that if Viper shafts are all you'll ever need, why would you put a HEAVIER shaft in there if it costs the same? This is rotating weight... if the thing is thicker with larger gears, its undoutedly heavier.
If 31 Spline = Unbreakable and Viper = Unbreakble + Lighter, then I would say its NOT a good deal for the same price.
If 31 Spline = Unbreakable and Viper = Unbreakble + Lighter, then I would say its NOT a good deal for the same price.
#37
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Great thread - I have a question.
I have had a TR6060 offered to me for $350 that has a wobbly input shaft. I'm considering switching my 69 LS powered Camaro from a 4L60E to a manual. I want to keep the cost down, and don't mind some sweat equity in used or bruised parts.
With that said - from experience...is the "wobbly" input shaft a common failure when the shifts are missed? Ball park - is this usually the sign of a total fatal failure...or something some fresh parts and time can cure?
The last dyno test through the A4 was 362 hp before the driveshaft had a critical speed failure. That failure dinked up the floor...etc, and has done something not nice to the trans. I lost lock up and it is hunting between 3rd and 4th gear.
I have had a TR6060 offered to me for $350 that has a wobbly input shaft. I'm considering switching my 69 LS powered Camaro from a 4L60E to a manual. I want to keep the cost down, and don't mind some sweat equity in used or bruised parts.
With that said - from experience...is the "wobbly" input shaft a common failure when the shifts are missed? Ball park - is this usually the sign of a total fatal failure...or something some fresh parts and time can cure?
The last dyno test through the A4 was 362 hp before the driveshaft had a critical speed failure. That failure dinked up the floor...etc, and has done something not nice to the trans. I lost lock up and it is hunting between 3rd and 4th gear.
#38
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What car did the TR6060 come out of? Missed shifts don't make the input shaft wobble, you have some serious issues in my opinion. You are better off going with a T56 rather than the TR6060 (clutch selection, slave issue, etc).
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I believe the Caddi TR has the bellhousing that is part of the trans midplate. The trans is physically different (bigger) compared to T56.
Only way to find out what is wrong with the input shaft is to take the trans completely apart.
IMHO, you will have more issues than transplanting a T56.
Only way to find out what is wrong with the input shaft is to take the trans completely apart.
IMHO, you will have more issues than transplanting a T56.