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SSR Fbody T56 hybrid project (1000hp on stock parts?)

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Old 03-31-2010, 05:59 PM
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Mike, I'll see you up there. Very nice thread even without the formal write up.
Old 04-01-2010, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
I should hopefully have a broken tailhousing this week thanks to Mike (thesource). I'll work on boring it out for the SSR bushing and seal, then sacrifice it to the band-saw-gods and check it closely for wall thickness.
When you get to that point, I wonder if a qualified TIG welder guy (not me) "stack some nickels" into the external recesses of an F / GTO tailhousing to build it up as an alternative to the milled SSR tailhousing?
Old 04-01-2010, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jmd
When you get to that point, I wonder if a qualified TIG welder guy (not me) "stack some nickels" into the external recesses of an F / GTO tailhousing to build it up as an alternative to the milled SSR tailhousing?
The choice of tailhousing is based upon if you're using a 1pc countershaft, or the more common 2pc counter+extension. They use different and incompatible support bearings.

Sorry for the lack of formal write-up, I have one 90% complete but I wanted to wait to get the final pics and costs for the tailhousing bore to post it online..

I picked up a $300 2001 C5 MM6 core from CF this week, to build a proto-type based off the F-body tailhousing, using a 2pc counter+extension setup..
Old 04-01-2010, 09:16 AM
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Ok, here's a Beta-version of the write-up. I estimated costs and borrowed a pic for the F-body tail housing machine work, otherwise it should be mostly complete.

I ask if anyone copies the info, that they copy the link and not the document itself, as I will be updating it frequently over the next few weeks.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf

Feedback/Corrections are welcomed and appreciated.
Old 05-01-2010, 08:02 PM
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Been a while since an update.. The Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) on the Bridgeport mill had burned up and I ended up having to build a static phase converter for it.

The sacrificial F-body tailhousing was bored out to the SSR bushing and seal. It will be cut apart this week to verify wall thickness. As it looks, there's still 0.250 wall remaining under the shifter, and the bushing area is no thinner than the rest of the tailhousing "tube".

Bored F-body tailhousing for SSR bushing&seal

The SSR tailhousing shifter pad was milled down 0.430" to accommodate the Fbody shifter. The lockout solenoid and the shift-rail were used as reference points and my LS7-SSR hybrid will be completed once the tailhousing is mounted.

SSR tailhousing shifter pad milled down

I have another C5 MM6 donor torn down and awaiting to be the F-body tailhousing proto-type now that the mill is back in order.

The write-up will be modified in the next few weeks with the tailhousing pics and pricing..
Old 05-02-2010, 11:05 AM
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Awesome write up Mike! Very professional and thorough! Now if you can find that deal for the L92, you have a place for this THING! LOL
Old 05-04-2010, 05:56 AM
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I quartered the tailhousing today and measured the cross section in the critical areas. It has at least 0.140" thickness at the smallest area, and most of the high stress areas are closer to 0.250"

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...095_large.html

I wouldn't recommend using it with a stock torque-arm mounted to the tailhousing, but there's no major limitation to the sleeve diameter as compared to the rest of the tailhousing.

SSR Fbody T56 hybrid project (1000hp on stock parts?)-101_0105sm.jpg
Old 05-13-2010, 09:20 AM
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Have you considered external braces for a little insurance?
Old 05-13-2010, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
Have you considered external braces for a little insurance?
That's always an option and was mentioned earlier in the thread to TIG some additional meat to it. Since the bore isn't any thinner than the rest of the tailhousing, I'm not sure how much it matters. The SSR tailhousing does have some extra support ribs and thicker metal in the bushing area, but I would imagine that by relocating the Torque-Arm mount off of the tailhousing, you get rid of most of the stress that the trans sees in that area.





You can buy this same trans from RSG for $4500, so I can't imagine it being that much of a problem or they would add support to their units. I'm just trying to show that it can be done with a little parts scrounging and a friendly neighborhood machineshop..
Old 05-13-2010, 01:46 PM
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I should note that I updated the build write-up with the final machining costs/pictures and the fully assembled SSR/LS7 unit.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf

I will eventually add the completely assembled 2pc counter/extension version when I'm done with it. Right now extra funds are scarce for building another 800hp T56 that I can't use...

mike

Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
Ok, here's a Beta-version of the write-up. I estimated costs and borrowed a pic for the F-body tail housing machine work, otherwise it should be mostly complete.

I ask if anyone copies the info, that they copy the link and not the document itself, as I will be updating it frequently over the next few weeks.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf

Feedback/Corrections are welcomed and appreciated.
Old 05-13-2010, 06:55 PM
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So, I have most of a t56 from a gto, it is missing the counter shaft extension shaft and all of 5th and 6th gear pieces. basically the only thing in the rear section is the reverse idler gear and bracket. (I bought it on ebay for cheap) I also have a t56 from a SSR, it has a bad main shaft and missing a midplate.( bought it off of craigslist for real cheap) I think I know the answer to this question, but, can I use the 1 piece counter shaft with the gto 1-4 gearset. I have a feeling I am going to have to use all of the gears from the SSR. What is so bad about the SSR gearset, are they just spaced too far apart? 3.01 is not much lower than 2.97. I looks like I will have to use the tailshaft housing from the SSR due to the countershaft rear bearing issue, but I have a 27 spline mainshaft. I roadrace with a 3000 lb car and have approx 530 crank hp. should I just go ahead and spend the extra $160 to get a new SSR main shaft, or do you think I can get away with the gto main? If I do use the gto mainshaft, how will I get a bushing the correct size for the slip yoke. thanks for the great thread and info
Old 05-13-2010, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 87350gta
So, I have most of a t56 from a gto, it is missing the counter shaft extension shaft and all of 5th and 6th gear pieces. basically the only thing in the rear section is the reverse idler gear and bracket. (I bought it on ebay for cheap) I also have a t56 from a SSR, it has a bad main shaft and missing a midplate.( bought it off of craigslist for real cheap) I think I know the answer to this question, but, can I use the 1 piece counter shaft with the gto 1-4 gearset.
No, different gear teeth&spacing.

Originally Posted by 87350gta
I have a feeling I am going to have to use all of the gears from the SSR. What is so bad about the SSR gearset, are they just spaced too far apart? 3.01 is not much lower than 2.97. I looks like I will have to use the tailshaft housing from the SSR due to the countershaft rear bearing issue, but I have a 27 spline mainshaft.
Nothing inherently bad with them, they're just lower than the already low 2.97. For a Heavy vehicle, they help get the mass moving easier, but you end up with wide gear spread and may not be optimal for the power-band and track use.


Originally Posted by 87350gta
I roadrace with a 3000 lb car and have approx 530 crank hp. should I just go ahead and spend the extra $160 to get a new SSR main shaft, or do you think I can get away with the gto main?
If you're not snapping gobs of power, moving a heavy car or drag-launching on sticky tires, the 27-spline output should be fine for your setup.

Originally Posted by 87350gta
If I do use the gto mainshaft, how will I get a bushing the correct size for the slip yoke. thanks for the great thread and info
Actually, since the caged needle support bearing for the 1pc is smaller than the tapered bearing race, you can get a 0.060" ring machined around the caged needle bearing, and install it into the GTO tailhousing.

So in summary:
- Use the GTO mainshaft, midplate, tailhousing
- Use the SSR input/1pc-counter/gears
- Use all the shift,etc. parts from the GTO, though most will exchange from the SSR also.

I'd love to get pictures from your stock SSR if you don't mind.. Send me a PM when you get rolling.
Old 05-13-2010, 08:13 PM
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Thanks for the super fast response. I am also missing the shifter/detent parts for the gto. I was hoping the stuff from the SSR would work. I only have the shift rails and forks from the gto. what do you need pics of? I would be glad to take any you need.
Old 05-13-2010, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 87350gta
Thanks for the super fast response. I am also missing the shifter/detent parts for the gto. I was hoping the stuff from the SSR would work. I only have the shift rails and forks from the gto. what do you need pics of? I would be glad to take any you need.
I'm looking for pictures of the stock SSR mainshaft 1-2 synchro retaining ring. The 1st gear synchro side ID, where there should be a step machined. The stock SSR VSS and VSS retaining rings.

All the SSR shift linkage should work for you. You'll probably need a Fbody offset lever for the shifter, unless you're running a GTO shifter.
Old 05-13-2010, 10:22 PM
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Wow Mike, what a great read. Very informative and educational too.

I like the green assembly grease too.


.
Old 05-14-2010, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bearcatt
Wow Mike, what a great read. Very informative and educational too.

I like the green assembly grease too.
.
Thanks.. NAPA "Assemblee Goo" Trans assembly lube is the green stuff. Not expensive and easy to get from my local NAPA.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...DCP_%20068.jpg
Old 05-14-2010, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
Thanks.. NAPA "Assemblee Goo" Trans assembly lube is the green stuff. Not expensive and easy to get from my local NAPA.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...DCP_%20068.jpg

Good deal, I have a Napa close by.
Also that Permatex " Right Stuff " gasket maker looks interesting.


.
Old 05-14-2010, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
I should note that I updated the build write-up with the final machining costs/pictures and the fully assembled SSR/LS7 unit.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf

I will eventually add the completely assembled 2pc counter/extension version when I'm done with it. Right now extra funds are scarce for building another 800hp T56 that I can't use...

mike
If you build it, I can always list it and sell it for you.
Old 05-20-2010, 10:03 PM
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Great job guys. What an amazing write up and drive to help us guys in favor of DIY buget friendly builds. I can't wait till i have the proper funds to do this myself. Becides Criagslist and ebay does anyone know where to get a donor 01 C5 / 06 CTS-V from on the cheeps. Once again awsome work, im sure a lot of people will be looking at this and seriously contemplating doing this after looking at the price of aftermarket setups similar.

Cord
Old 05-20-2010, 10:24 PM
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How did you come up with the 1000hp limit? I wonder how much it will handle in real world conditions.

For the price its tempting to find out.....


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