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SSR Fbody T56 hybrid project (1000hp on stock parts?)

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Old 01-30-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
So you didn't use an SSR tail housing/bushing? You wouldn't need to resize the OD of the slipyoke if you went that route.
Nope. Even after the machining, the thickness of the yoke walls were just as thick as the Viper or Ford 31-spline, so I didn't really see any point in using the SSR tailhousing/bushing. It's not a big deal for me to get it machined anyway.
Old 01-30-2011, 02:43 PM
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Yeah, I wasn't calling you out or anything, was just curious. No machine work is a big deal for me either, I can do anything like that on my own...in my case though, I picked up an SSR tail housing, which I need to mill down to the right shifter height, but then I'll be running an SSR 40 tooth VSS wheel (easy to re-program for) and an unmodified chromoly slip yoke...I've twisted a few regular yokes on launch in a heavy car on slicks, granted, they were smaller yokes for a 27 spline shaft, but the price of the chromoly one isn't a big deal to me, and it's a little more piece of mind...I'm hoping my little 370 makes some serious power, and I'm hoping my slicks stick like glue...so I need less other stuff to worry about when I let the left pedal fly
Old 01-30-2011, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TDP
I finished the 32-spline build a few weeks ago. Just been too busy to post about it. That modified mainshaft worked out great, btw. Remember I had the 2nd gear journal modified to accept the stock 1-2 snap ring. Other than that, I broke the CTS-V speedo gear trying to install it onto the splines. I even heated it up quite a bit with a heat gun. Ended up getting a stock 27-spline speedo gear milled out to 1.371in and it couldn't have been a better fit. I ended up using an 8in 1350 TH400 yoke. I got it cut down to 6.5in, and of course had the o.d. cut down to the proper size.
The CTSv wheel needs honed out also, it's not a direct fit. (I use a brake cyl hone to open it up 0.010"). It's an easier starting point than the Fbody as most people won't have an easy access to a mill compared to a hone.

I take it you're using the 30-spline bored viper-spec fbody tail and turning down the 32-spline yoke. I just finished one of those also.
Old 01-30-2011, 08:38 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
The CTSv wheel needs honed out also, it's not a direct fit. (I use a brake cyl hone to open it up 0.010"). It's an easier starting point than the Fbody as most people won't have an easy access to a mill compared to a hone.

I take it you're using the 30-spline bored viper-spec fbody tail and turning down the 32-spline yoke. I just finished one of those also.
Guess I should have measured beforehand. I thought I read that the CTS-V gear was a direct fit. Afterwards, I pushed the speedo gear back together with channel locks, then measured it to be 1.366in, while the shaft was 1.370in. 0.004in of interference was way too much on this thin brittle gear. When it was all said and done, I had somewhere between .0005in and .0010in of interference, which was right on the money.

Yes, I used the Dodge bushing, and had the yoke turned down to the same o.d. as the Viper 30/ Ford 31. We ended up using a GM style 1350 yoke since my customer was having a custom driveshaft made anyway. Might as well go with the 1350, instead of the 3R--->1330 conversion u-joint.
Now that I think about it, there should be a bushing available that's smaller than the SSR/TH400, and larger than the Dodge bushing. This way we could still use the f-body tailhousing and have a larger bushing/yoke combo, since the yoke can be machined down to any size in between the two. I'll have to pilfer around the bushing isle at my local Tremec dealer and see what I can come up with for the next 32-spline build .
At the end of the day, it probably isn't going to make much of a difference as far as strength goes, but it's just something different in a good way.
Old 01-31-2011, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by TDP
Now that I think about it, there should be a bushing available that's smaller than the SSR/TH400, and larger than the Dodge bushing. This way we could still use the f-body tailhousing and have a larger bushing/yoke combo, since the yoke can be machined down to any size in between the two. I'll have to pilfer around the bushing isle at my local Tremec dealer and see what I can come up with for the next 32-spline build .
At the end of the day, it probably isn't going to make much of a difference as far as strength goes, but it's just something different in a good way.
I've bored the Fbody tail all the way out to the the SSR/TH400 bushing. The major benefit of the 30-spline tail is that most major T56 parts/builders have access to them and something that can be easily purchased. Turning down a yoke is easy compared to boring a tailhousing... If you're going to bore yourself, there's no reason not to put in a TH400 bushing/seal and use the yoke as is.
Old 01-31-2011, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
in my case though, I picked up an SSR tail housing, which I need to mill down to the right shifter height
The main problem with the SSR tail housing is that it has to be used with a 1pc countershaft. 95% of the builds won't have the 1pc and so SSR tail isn't an option.

Now if someone could find a smaller bearing race to make it work...
Old 01-31-2011, 08:49 AM
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Well...as an update. GM has 32 spline mainshafts in stock still (and his voice didn't show any "this part will be gone soon" type of tone), and The Gear Box just e-mailed me saying 1 new shaft came in for their inventory, and another Tremec supplier (a local shop) just e-mailed to let me know they're in stock and available for order from Tremec.

I've got one on order from GM right now and I'm going to order another (as a spare) from the local guy later on today once he gets back to me with a price...and then a few other parts from The Gear Box...since everyone has been so friendly with helping me track the part down, I want to make sure I buy stuff from all of them lol.

Last edited by Mike454SS; 01-31-2011 at 08:55 AM.
Old 01-31-2011, 12:22 PM
  #108  
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I was surprised at how cheap the SSR shaft was. I paid $160 from the Gear Box a few months ago. How much is GM charging you for it?
Old 01-31-2011, 12:56 PM
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Within 2 or 3 dollars of that price, I can't remember the exact number he said. I get essentially what you'd see from GM parts direct from my friend, but he doesn't charge me their astronomical fee's, just normal shipping.
Old 01-31-2011, 06:14 PM
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How much was the SSR tailshaft housing ?
Old 01-31-2011, 06:38 PM
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I think I paid right around $215 for mine.
Old 02-01-2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
Within 2 or 3 dollars of that price, I can't remember the exact number he said. I get essentially what you'd see from GM parts direct from my friend, but he doesn't charge me their astronomical fee's, just normal shipping.
Sweet, that's unusually cheap, especially from GM. I'm going to call my parts guy and get it ordered. Thanks!
Old 02-06-2011, 08:03 PM
  #113  
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Does this trans only work with LSx engines and transmissions or will it work with LTx engines as well since I know the input shaft length is different between the two?
I have a 94 Z28 with a freshly built engine which will be running N20 and I want a stronger trans, thanks.
Old 02-06-2011, 08:11 PM
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All of the internal modifications will work on an LT1 transmission as well. You just need to use the LT1 front plate, bellhousing, and input shaft, there will be no difference in strength/capacity of the transmission.
Old 02-06-2011, 08:19 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
All of the internal modifications will work on an LT1 transmission as well. You just need to use the LT1 front plate, bellhousing, and input shaft, there will be no difference in strength/capacity of the transmission.
The triple/double cone synchros are only available on the longer LS1-type input shafts.. This would also require spacers, conversion bellhousings, or shortened/rewelded input shafts.
Old 02-06-2011, 08:22 PM
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Oh...so then just shorten an LS1 input shaft...thats not a big deal...plus if you've got an LS1 input shaft thats galled from a bad pilot bearing, that gives it a second lease on life.
Old 02-06-2011, 11:33 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
Oh...so then just shorten an LS1 input shaft...thats not a big deal...plus if you've got an LS1 input shaft thats galled from a bad pilot bearing, that gives it a second lease on life.
IIRC, the LS1 input is a smaller o.d. behind the splines than the major dia. of the splines.

I believe the Chrysler (correct 26 spline; full o.d. which can be resplined) input with the 31 tooth 4th gear could be used for a double/single synchro MM6 LT1 build.

Not sure if there's a 29 tooth Chrysler double cone input for an MN12 LT1 build. I better go back and make sure Mike didn't already tell me this was a no-go in the past.
Old 02-07-2011, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jmd
IIRC, the LS1 input is a smaller o.d. behind the splines than the major dia. of the splines.

I believe the Chrysler (correct 26 spline; full o.d. which can be resplined) input with the 31 tooth 4th gear could be used for a double/single synchro MM6 LT1 build.

Not sure if there's a 29 tooth Chrysler double cone input for an MN12 LT1 build. I better go back and make sure Mike didn't already tell me this was a no-go in the past.
Only GM used triple/double cone synchros in the T56, the Chrysler (viper) single-cone input wouldn't work.

The LS1-type double-cone input wouldn't be able to be re-splinned, it would have to be cut behind the splines and rewelded. Jason@TDP offers this for $100 IIRC..
Old 02-09-2011, 08:23 AM
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Latest two examples of configuration options for the DIY'er:

C5 Vette Base MM6 donor with 32-spline mainshaft and F-body Viper tail-yoke

C5 Vette Base MM6 donor with 32-spline mainshaft and new 1pc C6Z06 countershaft

Last edited by 85MikeTPI; 02-09-2011 at 07:10 PM.
Old 02-09-2011, 06:53 PM
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your second link didn't format correctly, http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...SR_Hybrid_1pc/ works though


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