Intermittent Clutch Disengagement Issues
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In Northern Va before snowstorm. Wash my car at carwash in afternoon. Dont know if water freezing could be an issue. Anyway, drive out to see a friend, come home that night to class, no issues. Park car, but when I leave class 2 hours later, 10pm pretty cold out. I go to start my car and it takes off. I did this 2 times, and thought matt was under pedal so I pulled it back still doing it. Anyway Had to turn car off, put in 1st start and go. It essentially did this all the way home. Took it to dealer in the AM and tried bleeding the system, yet he said he could not get any air out. So I pull car off rack and go to leave, and what should happen but problem goes away. 1st and Rev no issues, drove like before. Then 5 min later, it started again. then after a bit it went away and again returned. WTF...lol This is not a break in period Ive been driving on it for 2+ years, no issues ever. 99 M6 Mcleod Adjustable Master, LS6 Slave, Spec Stage 3, Findanza Aluminum Flywheel. Car has not seen a track/road course Since I put the parts in or brought it back from Italy. Any Ideas. Oh yeah every 2-3 months I have to fill up the fluid in the reservoir, I looked to see if there was leaking in Driver compartment but to no avail it clean. I did call Spec, and he has never heard of this happening, Leak was best he could come up with. Called thunder racing this am and they are going to call Mcleod about possibility warrenty issues and to see if they have any suggestions. In the mean time, what do you guys think?
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since I have headers on the car, and they are in close proximity to the braided stainless steel clutch line, what is the possibility of heat soaking the fluid to have it boil out....I bought some header wrap, and new fluid DOT 3 and 4 syn to completely bleed the system with new fluid. Someone must know something on this, or is it just me.
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sbackof, I am not sure who you spoke with here but I am happy to assist you with any questions you may have. Since we know you are loosing fluid, evidenced by your need to refill the system ever 2-3 months then it is clear that there is something happening within your hydraulic system. Though you don't see any fluid inside the car have you noticed any leaks outside, under the car?
Though it wouldn't account for fluid loss, you could be seeing an issue with internal bypass of fluid resulting from a bad seal in the slave or master. Fluid can seap by the seal and thus leak internally. Generally speaking when this occurs the fluid will return to the "normal" side of the seal when pressure is released.
It is also possible that you are in fact aerating the fluid as a result of the close proximity of the headers and the hydraulic lines. Of course, if this were happening then you would expect the dealer to have been able to draw air out of the system. Since it doesn;t hurt to do this, make sure that the line is routed behind the heat shield and wrap it with a good insulating wrap and try rebleeding the system. I had a similar problem on a stock car several years ago and it was a nightmare to trouble shoot. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Though it wouldn't account for fluid loss, you could be seeing an issue with internal bypass of fluid resulting from a bad seal in the slave or master. Fluid can seap by the seal and thus leak internally. Generally speaking when this occurs the fluid will return to the "normal" side of the seal when pressure is released.
It is also possible that you are in fact aerating the fluid as a result of the close proximity of the headers and the hydraulic lines. Of course, if this were happening then you would expect the dealer to have been able to draw air out of the system. Since it doesn;t hurt to do this, make sure that the line is routed behind the heat shield and wrap it with a good insulating wrap and try rebleeding the system. I had a similar problem on a stock car several years ago and it was a nightmare to trouble shoot. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the input Spec, I went the easy way first and completely bled the system, just to see if that was the issue, and sure enough it fixed the issue. Yeah the header heat is the problem, and no heat shields either as they are long tubes race headers, so now I just have to take them off and wrap them, I got some high temp spray too, out of curiosity can you spray that over the wrap too to help at all? Yeah everyone (SPEC, Mcleod, Thunder Racing) all went with the header heat being the issue.
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great problem is back, though this time, it is disengaging with only about an inch of travel, any more and nothing. So i may just rebuild the Master cylinder and see what happens, hopefully its not the slave. what do you think?
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have never used a spray-on heat coating and a wrap together...but it couldn't hurt. I assume you would use the spray first and then wrap over this. If you are having another hydraulic issue, after insulating everything, then you may be seeing an issue within the system. Give the rebuild a shot and let us know what you find. As you know...it is pretty hard to diagnose an issue over the computer but it is possible that this is slave related too. Of course, it is easier to start with the Master. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I replaced the slave yesterday, and finshed everything today. Though other than the throwout bearing having a different bushing head, and different numbers above the slave code I couldnt see a difference, so as I got it from chevy I hope that it is a ls6....02 slave cylinder. Couldnt see any issues with the pressure plate, everything looked ok. Got everything put back together, lowered the car a few inches above the ground, and started the car, shifted good through all the gears, grind on occasion but overall good. lowered car and went to back it out and the problem was back. Frustrated I tried 1 more thing. I adjusted the MS rod all the way down, but figured not enough pedal travel so I put it all the way out. It worked but it would only disengage about 3-4 inches out from being completely depressed. So i brought the head back down about half way or so, and it disengaged at the right spot but now it doesnt seem to catch till the pedal is all the way out almost, my knee is just hitting the steering wheel. At this point I was happy to just have it working, so I packed up and drove it home. And as long as it remains working Ill make some final adjustment to try and tweak the rod length to get it working just right. HOWEVER...........if this doesnt work and the problem returns what do you think is the issue. Only thing left is to replace the clutch........PLEASE STAY WORKING....KNOCK ON WOOD
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Trending Topics
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So here is where we are at......New Slave, MC rebuild kit, And Hydraulic line. Still not working, So I contacted McCleod and explained to them the issues And essentially I have to call back tomorrow to see if they will have a good Gen II MC to send me and consider it a trade. Which they are pretty sure as well as the transmission shop my car was at for a week, will take care of the problem. They are working on a Gen III design which should be out soon, and it will have 3 different size internal pistons to choose from to fit your application. Oh yeah I dont know if I told you but on my way back from transmission shop, My 1 spacer failed, and 4 arp lugs broke off sending my rim into my caliper punching a 5 inch hole in it.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
#10
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leesburg Va
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts