you are totally missing the boat...

 

Not missing the boat, my guess is the Op does not know where the oil seepage is from so he thinks it must be the rear main seal and is asking on how to replace it, when in reality it probably does not need replacing, yet the fire is being fueled by telling him how to replace a seal that probably does not need replacing, give him some constructive advice, and to diagnose the problem correctly, like maybe check the flywheel bolts to see if they had sealant on them first and then to be absolutely sure that is not the problem, then if he feels he still needs to change a seal that shows no signs of seepage as he states then he will know how at least due to the numerous responses.

 

You know I have to agree, I kind of question the need to replace the rear main after reading the initial post. I too had a little bit of oil on the threads of the flywheel bolts but saw no sign of a leak at the rear main. I figured there was a reason why GM sealant is specified.

I'm worried he's going to create a worse leak by replacing the rear seal when it doesn't sound like that's a problem.

 

As long as it's installed correctly it will be fine.

I don't see why a little RTV on the Flywheel Bolt wouldn't hurt either.

 

**carbon fiber pistons* and a fiberglass driveshaft lmao.....

 

..I saw that too..

 

well if there is oil on the flywheel bolts, doesn't that mean the oil HAD to have com from the rearmain seal? how else would the oil be getting there?

 

if you think that's funny, check this out

https://ls1tech.com/forums/12935210-post1.html

 

I am trying to give you a little bit of free education, I have done numerous clutch jobs on these types of vehicles especially the LS series, if you read both the OP's post and my post's there appears to be no oil seepage from the rear main but there is oil present on the bolts as I stated earlier where the flywheel bolts go, the bolt holes are not blind meaning they are threaded all the way through to the oil galleys in the crank itself, if you look at that end of the crank you will also see a small freeze plug there, which is why G.M. specifies you MUST use sealant on the threads of the flywheel bolts they have a special sealant that also has loctite in it and is sold by G.M. and it is specified to be used on the threads, and no it is not because they just want to sell you something, I dont have the part number on hand but I have also used regular old teflon paste with a dab of loctite as well, but it is a step you dont want to omit, you can look it up on the proper procedure to installing a new flywheel on any G.M. service manual or ask anyone that does this type of work on a regular basis, or you can ask NHRATA01 obviously he has read it somewhere that the sealant is required and he understands as he seems to have been in the same situation. HAPPY BOATING

 

Which makes sense, though I had never realized the crank didn't have blind holes. But when I just pulled out my old clutch a few weeks ago I saw some oil on the lower threads on the bolt, but nothing up near the head. I had used blue locktite the first time around a few years ago and it seems as if it sealed well enough. Also the instructions for my Monster clutch specifically mention using GM thread sealer on the flywheel bolts, and plain red locktite on the pressure plate bolts.

It's worth raising this issue because I'm sure there are a number of people who don't use any thread locker or sealant, and find their nice new clutch starts slipping a few thousand miles early from getting oil onto the surfaces.

 

Thanks for helping NHRATA01 out on trying to get this through someones head, I have been a mechanic for over 20 years and a service manager for over 10 of those years, and have come across quite a few "supposed mechanics" there is a difference between a parts changer and a mechanic and when I get these guys that claim they can fix the space shuttle and the Hubble telescope only to find out that I would not let them work on my lawnmower. A good mechanic will listen and learn and not think they already know it all, hell I still learn new things every day, we need to use the K.I.S.S. method "keep it simple stupid" because car mechanics is definitely not rocket science, always try and diagnose the problem correctly and keep an open mind on the fix at hand, and always keep your ears open you might just learn something.

 

No one is arguing with you, the original post was asking on the best way to install a rear main seal and if he needed to use the special tool. The thread just developed from there. We are very blessed to have your expertise in here, using sealant on the fly bolt threads is a very good tip.

 

I definitely used the gm threadlocker/sealant when I did my clutch. I didn't use a special tool for the seal either. Just took my time and pried it out with a flathead, then carefully pushed it in straight by hand. I think I heard that the sealant on the inside of the rear main has some sort of special teflon compound that heats up and binds creating a seal between the rubber and the crank when you first start the car. Thats why you're not supposed to lubricate it with oil.