I think my T56 just needs a bleed
#1
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I picked up this 98 Z28 not to long ago with a gear grinding problem.
Grinds: 1-2, 3-2, and 2-1 while driving under normal condition. I can manage to down **** 3-2 and 2 -1 at a very low speed to just about a dead stop with no grind
At a dead stop in neutral to first is can be hard getting into first and it does get hard sometimes putting it into fifth while driving on the highway from 6-5
If I double clutch my 1-2 shift I get no grind at all but if I double clutch 3-2 or 2-1 it will grind.
So I want to say this thing needs to be bleed? Well that is what I hope instead of needing a rebuild. I changed the trans fluid in it so far but that is it. They guy I bought the car off of did not have it for very long because he bought it in the same condition I did and he decided to sell. He said the clutch was changed before he bought it but did not know about the slave or master being changed. The clutch feels good but it does make a weird noise under stress (just close to stalling the car out) at low RPM say going up a steep hill from a dead stop. If you have read this far please chime in with your thoughts!
Grinds: 1-2, 3-2, and 2-1 while driving under normal condition. I can manage to down **** 3-2 and 2 -1 at a very low speed to just about a dead stop with no grind
At a dead stop in neutral to first is can be hard getting into first and it does get hard sometimes putting it into fifth while driving on the highway from 6-5
If I double clutch my 1-2 shift I get no grind at all but if I double clutch 3-2 or 2-1 it will grind.
So I want to say this thing needs to be bleed? Well that is what I hope instead of needing a rebuild. I changed the trans fluid in it so far but that is it. They guy I bought the car off of did not have it for very long because he bought it in the same condition I did and he decided to sell. He said the clutch was changed before he bought it but did not know about the slave or master being changed. The clutch feels good but it does make a weird noise under stress (just close to stalling the car out) at low RPM say going up a steep hill from a dead stop. If you have read this far please chime in with your thoughts!
Last edited by CAMJAG; 02-23-2010 at 07:35 PM.
#3
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Sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing. That causes drag, which results in difficulty engaging gears, and gear clash.
In order to bleed the clutch, you will need DOT4 brake fluid and some tools.
Top off the clutch fluid reservior, go under the car, and find the bleeder valve. Its directly above the quick connect clutch line hose on the driver's side. You won't be able to see the bleeder, but you can feel it and get a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket on it. Have someone hold the pedal to the floor, open the valve, let the fluid squirt out, close the valve, have the person pull the pedal back up, and repeat. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full throughout the process or you will end up sucking in air, which is exactly what you are trying to get rid of.
In order to bleed the clutch, you will need DOT4 brake fluid and some tools.
Top off the clutch fluid reservior, go under the car, and find the bleeder valve. Its directly above the quick connect clutch line hose on the driver's side. You won't be able to see the bleeder, but you can feel it and get a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket on it. Have someone hold the pedal to the floor, open the valve, let the fluid squirt out, close the valve, have the person pull the pedal back up, and repeat. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full throughout the process or you will end up sucking in air, which is exactly what you are trying to get rid of.
#4
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Sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing. That causes drag, which results in difficulty engaging gears, and gear clash.
In order to bleed the clutch, you will need DOT4 brake fluid and some tools.
Top off the clutch fluid reservior, go under the car, and find the bleeder valve. Its directly above the quick connect clutch line hose on the driver's side. You won't be able to see the bleeder, but you can feel it and get a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket on it. Have someone hold the pedal to the floor, open the valve, let the fluid squirt out, close the valve, have the person pull the pedal back up, and repeat. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full throughout the process or you will end up sucking in air, which is exactly what you are trying to get rid of.
In order to bleed the clutch, you will need DOT4 brake fluid and some tools.
Top off the clutch fluid reservior, go under the car, and find the bleeder valve. Its directly above the quick connect clutch line hose on the driver's side. You won't be able to see the bleeder, but you can feel it and get a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket on it. Have someone hold the pedal to the floor, open the valve, let the fluid squirt out, close the valve, have the person pull the pedal back up, and repeat. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full throughout the process or you will end up sucking in air, which is exactly what you are trying to get rid of.
#5
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You will stop getting air bubbles or air pockets out of the bleeder valve when you open it.
As long as you listen carefully, you will be able to hear when there is air.
When a steady stream of fluid comes out about 4 or 5 times in a row, its probably sufficiently bled.
As long as you listen carefully, you will be able to hear when there is air.
When a steady stream of fluid comes out about 4 or 5 times in a row, its probably sufficiently bled.
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Just bleed the clutch and no dice. Ill be pulling this trans out and replacing it with another one my buddy has from a 00SS. Ill post this one for sale when its out for someone looking to do a rebuild
Last edited by CAMJAG; 03-01-2010 at 06:15 PM.