Will the Tick M/C solve my problem?
Will the Tick M/C solve my problem? A little back round to my situation...
I burned up my RPS clutch and sprung for a Monster Stg. III. Once installed I went through the break in period (750 miles to be exact) and the clutch felt GREAT! Once I hit 751 miles I happened to be pulling into Sacramento Raceway's staging lane. I John Force the tires after a little dip in the water box. Pull up to the line to settle a grudge between me and a friend with a similar set up. The tree starts the count-down and I bring the RPM up. Green light means go and I drop the clutch "POP", then nothing. Lost all gears. I thought to myself; "WTF just happened!?"
I get it home on the back of a tow truck, pull the transmission to find a loose main shaft. Tick received the tranny shortly after and completed a Stg. II rebuild w/ Cryo and REM polishing. Once I get the transmission back I put everything back together and proceed to put 1k miles on the new tranny, which feels amazing.
Back at the track at 1500 miles on the tranny (2250 on the clutch) and I feather it from 4k only to get a horrible vibration. I limp the car home (painfully) and pull the transmission (again). I find pieces of the clutch welded to both the pressure plate and the flywheel.
Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I got the clutch replaced by Monster (excellent customer service!) but the new clutch will not disengage now. Or at least not without pumping the crap out of the pedal and throwing/pulling it into or out of gear. The install was all done correctly. I've also replaced the master cylinder with two brand new units from NAPA in hopes of solving the problem. Still nothing.
This issue is driving me crazy. I haven't driven my car in over 6 months.
I just ordered my Tick in hopes of finally being able to drive my baby again!
CAN ANYONE HELP ME!?
I burned up my RPS clutch and sprung for a Monster Stg. III. Once installed I went through the break in period (750 miles to be exact) and the clutch felt GREAT! Once I hit 751 miles I happened to be pulling into Sacramento Raceway's staging lane. I John Force the tires after a little dip in the water box. Pull up to the line to settle a grudge between me and a friend with a similar set up. The tree starts the count-down and I bring the RPM up. Green light means go and I drop the clutch "POP", then nothing. Lost all gears. I thought to myself; "WTF just happened!?"
I get it home on the back of a tow truck, pull the transmission to find a loose main shaft. Tick received the tranny shortly after and completed a Stg. II rebuild w/ Cryo and REM polishing. Once I get the transmission back I put everything back together and proceed to put 1k miles on the new tranny, which feels amazing.
Back at the track at 1500 miles on the tranny (2250 on the clutch) and I feather it from 4k only to get a horrible vibration. I limp the car home (painfully) and pull the transmission (again). I find pieces of the clutch welded to both the pressure plate and the flywheel.
Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I got the clutch replaced by Monster (excellent customer service!) but the new clutch will not disengage now. Or at least not without pumping the crap out of the pedal and throwing/pulling it into or out of gear. The install was all done correctly. I've also replaced the master cylinder with two brand new units from NAPA in hopes of solving the problem. Still nothing.
This issue is driving me crazy. I haven't driven my car in over 6 months.
I just ordered my Tick in hopes of finally being able to drive my baby again!
CAN ANYONE HELP ME!?
Anyone? Could it be a bad Slave possibly? I have nothing leaking from the bell housing so I know it's not the seals on the slave. What else could cause these issues? I've bled liters of fluid through the system.
Power bled, mityvac, traditional bleeding... Nothing works!
Power bled, mityvac, traditional bleeding... Nothing works!
i dont know, but that is how mine looked only a little worse. i had multiple spots where it looked like something was welded to the surface. i almost think it could be from slippin the clutch a lot. i just said screw it, bought a new clutch, alum flywheel, new t bearing, and the tick master.
The Tick master should be made madatory on these clutches, Ive got a level III and had the stock M/C with the drill mod, it was a piece.... I could hardly grab gears, and missed a lot of gears too. Threw a Tick adjustable on there and it gave me a whole new love for my car. No more struggling to find gears and I can grab em all at high RPM's. Even if it isn't your problem, you still need it.
My car isn't even drivable as of right now though. I'm hoping the tick will solve my problem, but is there anything else it could be?
Monster said a bent clutch disc could do it but I can guarantee that I didn't bend it on install.
So is there anything else? besides possible bending during shipping (somehow)?
My poor car hasn't been driven in months because of this issue. My $300 truck turned into a commuter lol
Monster said a bent clutch disc could do it but I can guarantee that I didn't bend it on install.
So is there anything else? besides possible bending during shipping (somehow)?
My poor car hasn't been driven in months because of this issue. My $300 truck turned into a commuter lol
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I've seen a few spec 3's and one Tex oz700 welded to the flywheel so hard the clutch wouldn't dissengage. I'm not sure what causes it, but it does happen. Joeys car did this once with a spec 3 after tons of miles. We had the same technique at the track as always that day...heat the tires, pull to the line, 6800 on the two step, bam.
FWIW, a bent clutch disk can cause dissengagement issues.
FWIW, a bent clutch disk can cause dissengagement issues.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, I just don't know how the disc would get bent unless it was during shipping. I by no means have any money to play with lol. The stuff I do to my car is after saving and making sure I have no other bills or expenses that need to be taken care of so I'm very meticulous on my installs/handling of parts.
And that welding was after a 3.5k clutch dump lol with only 750 miles on the clutch.
Is the other disc reusable if I have to warranty the one in the car now? Just as a temp? Or do you think it will just get worse?
And that welding was after a 3.5k clutch dump lol with only 750 miles on the clutch.
Is the other disc reusable if I have to warranty the one in the car now? Just as a temp? Or do you think it will just get worse?
