hey guys, i just went to advance auto, and got a pilot bushing, i didnt pay attention at the store, but they gave me this one:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...6_340983977___

the stock one, ad the one i replaced before looked like this: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...6_763486934___

is there any negatives to the one he gave me, or should i take it back and get the second one?

Thanks

 

Well first of all I would not run a pilot bushing, It does not support the input shaft nearly as much as the pilot bearing that GM put in our cars (there are numerous posts and arguments on this subject) Just think of it this way, In the 60's they used bronze pilot bushings, 40 years later we are using bearings, Now DID technology and engineering progress over the last 40 years..
But to answer your original question, That replacement bushing looks 1/3 thinner than the other, Now you are even talking about less support, I would not let that thing anywhere near my car. Spend the 11$ and put a new pilot bearing in the car. Or at the very least run the bigger bushing.

 

thankyou for your opinion, my car came with a bushing stock, and i would rather keep it that way.

I have heard some horror stories about the bearing, but im sure it is the same story with the bushing also.

I will try and go back down the the parts store to see if i can get the bigger one, i didnt actually get it, but i had them order it, so hopefully it will be possible for me to switch them out

 

I have a Bronze Bushing in mine..it's cheaper to replace if it goes to ****

Bushing goes out.. have to replace the Bushing, maybe the Input and Mainshaft Bearings in the T56..and that's worst case scenerio. I have a pretty tight shimmed T56, so it will hold out a little longer.

Bearing goes out.. If it tears up the Input Shaft, which happens quite often, you have to replace the Input Shaft and the Bearing that's on it, aswell as a new Pilot Bearing.


The Bushing is definately cheaper to replace.

 

My car came with a bronze bushing from the factory and thats what I will continue to use. The bearing works well until it depleted itself of all lubricant and then grenades and takes out the transmission input shaft with it. That will be some bucks to have the new shaft installed and to reset the transmission mainshaft end play unless you know how to do it yourself.

I dint think its an accident that manufacturers still use bushings on the assembly line. Also I have yet to ever be able to remove a busted bearing with a slide hammer and puller. I always have to cut the thing out with a dremel. The bushings come out with ease.

There is absolutely no performance increase with the bearing. At best it will support the tranny input shaft just a tad more and maybe reduce some very minor noise and vibrations. Until it goes KABOOM.

My 2 cents.

 

Like I said, there are flags waving on both sides of the debate, I have never heard of an LS1 car coming with the bushing, Alot of people swapping to one but never coming with one.

 

what kind of grease and method do you use to lube up the bearing? i just got my ls7 kit and i thought it was coming with a bushing but looks like i got a bearing. i am on the fence just going to the dealer to get the bushing but i may use the bearing. i dont beat on my car tooo bad. sorry for the highjack... i am doing it this weekend and want to get over the bushing/bearing debate.

 

the bearing should be pre-lubes but you can add a small amount of high temp wheel bearing grease on the needles and imput shaft tip. not to much grease...

 

thanks for the reply.

 

I use synthetic brake caliper grease. It has good high heat resistance.

Now I dont know if this is right or wrong. I pack the cavity behind the bushing with grease with the intent that it will help to lubricate the bushing and extend its life. I have always done this and have never encountered a situation where it got past the bushing and contaminated the clutch friction surface. Once I pack the it full, I stick the disk tool all the way in to ensure there is no squeeze out once the tranny is installed.

 

This happens on old Mopars if you try to put a small block originally set up with an auto onto a manual trans. A lot of people in that community prefer putting the bushing in for safety exactly like you mentioned. You aren't the only one that gets nervous at the thought of hardened bearings roaming free in there.

I put in a bearing, but I am starting to reconsider.

Just another data point.

 

I've installed a used bronze bushing which worked fine. I've used the roller bearings that worked fine. I'm kind of on the same page as merv, although a post on here recently about not tapping the bearing all the way into the crank (so that the rollers better align with the end of the input shaft) is something I'll look into on the next clutch work I do...

 

So how did it go?? I replaced a clutch in my trans am at 150,000 miles and the bearing was totally gone. Just a rusty bare race in there. It also messed up my output shaft bearing. I installed a brass (bronze?) bushing at that time and the car now has 250k miles and no problems at all so far.

 

What brand did you buy? I cannot find a bronze bushing that won't stick a magnet. The bronze bushing in the car has magnetic properties, aswell as every parts store variety! So I shelled out $27 for a true Oilite bushing and guess what.....still magnetic! !!!

 

^^^ Go to Advance Auto and get a National (Federal Mogul) PB-656-HD pilot bushing, it's sintered bronze, non-magnetic and made in the USA. Costs 9 bucks.

 

Ok I will, I am disappointed in this Mcloed unit.