Car will not go into gear while running
#1
Car will not go into gear while running
Hey guys well my car is really starting to **** me off. Anyways long story shot I replaced my clutch when I rebuilt my engine. However we got a lot of oil on it and the disc started slipping. The clutch is a Zoom HP-70043. Its a stage 2 I'm guessing. Anyways I was able to get a new disc from them. So everything was working fine before I removed the old disc except for the slipping. So after I swapped the disc out it would not go into gear when it was running. However it would go into gears when the car was off. So we decided to replace the slave and master cylinder since my slave started leaking some. Got the new gm unit that was pre-bled. So this weekend we pulled it out and made sure everything was right. When the pressure plate came off the disc was attached to it. The pressure plate had a rust mark on that looked like it my disc. Anyways we cleaned everything again and made sure the input shaft has greese on it. Put everything back together and same problem. We started in gear and it was trying to move on its own with the clutch depressed. We tried bleeding the system but no luck. Anybody got any ideas before I pull this transmission for the 6th time.
#2
jack the rear of the car up off the ground, start the car and try to put it in first and if the tires start spinning then its not completely disengaging the clutch, it has to be the master or slave or the system could be not bled properly. Just a suggestion to try, if it does not do this then i am really not sure what could be wrong.
#4
Hey man. My car has been down for almost a month with the same problem. I been reading and reasearching and have found that since I have been bleeding my clutch with the mity vac. It has gotten better. Its still hard for me to put it in gear but its getting better. I'm goin to just order the tick master and that should fix the problem I hope. Good luck though
#5
Yeah I have a new master that was supposed to be pre-bled. I am tired of this car. Its been down since last February. I just got the engine running right and now this. Should have sold it last year before I dumped all my money in to this car.
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#14
Jack car up and have friend look at slave cylinder while your pressing the clutch pedal, if it moves during the whole stroke, especially when you first start pressing it, there is no air in the system. If there was air in the clutch system you would feel no resistance on clutch pedal when you first begin to press it. I've seen a damaged pilot bearing cause drag on the input shaft which will give you the same symptoms as the clutch not releasing all the way. Did you install a new pilot bearing? Maybe the input shaft damaged it while installing the trans? (if it was difficult to get in all the way).. Check the throw on slave cylinder first.
#15
OP
what tq did you use on PP bolts???
22 ft lbs...any more and you WILL have disengagement issues.
a bent or lose clutch fork could also be the problem.
the OEM "sealed" hydraulics do not need bleeding if you have not broken into the system.
what tq did you use on PP bolts???
22 ft lbs...any more and you WILL have disengagement issues.
a bent or lose clutch fork could also be the problem.
the OEM "sealed" hydraulics do not need bleeding if you have not broken into the system.
#17
can you explain why over torqueing the PP would cause this?
#20
LT1 Clutch PP TQ
"Why"....well the PP TQ for 93-96 "pull" type clutch on PP is 22 ft lbs in FSM. "Why" I don't specifically know other than over TQ will clamp PP to tight resulting in disengagement issues. I learned the hard way when I just hit the PP bolts with my air gun once on install. One would think the PP bottoms out on the FW so TQ should not matter but it does. The PP bolts "float" inside the PP leaving just the threaded part going into the FW.
Just put in a clutch 2 days ago...FW TQ is 74 ft lbs, PP tq is 22 ft lbs. Use red lock tite on both
Just put in a clutch 2 days ago...FW TQ is 74 ft lbs, PP tq is 22 ft lbs. Use red lock tite on both