2nd 3th 5th R Shift Issues
I recently installed a rebuilt Spec 3 clutch and it shifted just fine. Problem was the PP was out of balance. The clutch shop I took it to said it was so out of balance it was trash. I believe somebody used it to balance the stroker it came off of, although the seller denys it.
So I break it down again, and have my PP resurfaced. I also replace my slave cylinder, along with the resurfaced PP, and now it wont shift into 2nd, 3rd, 5th or reverse...I bled the system...any ideas???
So I break it down again, and have my PP resurfaced. I also replace my slave cylinder, along with the resurfaced PP, and now it wont shift into 2nd, 3rd, 5th or reverse...I bled the system...any ideas???
Let me clarify...I had two PP's, i trashed the one that was looked like swiss cheese and resurface my old PP because I knew it balanced out. Could it be shimmed incorrectly?
I've pulled this tranny 4 time already and I dont wanna do it again!!!
HELP!!!
On a positive note I can break it down and reinstall it in less than 1.5 hours now...HAHAHAH!!
I've pulled this tranny 4 time already and I dont wanna do it again!!!
HELP!!!
On a positive note I can break it down and reinstall it in less than 1.5 hours now...HAHAHAH!!
You could ask Spec what the min. thickness of the PP should be.
2nd 3rd, 4th, 5th - won't shift in at all?
Won't shift in with engine on?
Won't shift in with engine off?
2nd 3rd, 4th, 5th - won't shift in at all?
Won't shift in with engine on?
Won't shift in with engine off?
It shifts when off, but not when running...could it possible be an electrical problem? The damn thing was working perfectly when I last drove it. I'm about ready to set fire to the damn thing...
If 1st and 6th are tough to shift into, then I'd be looking more at clutch release such as hydraulics, but could be air gap, so shim... What were your trans. to TO brg. distance vs. the bell to PP fingers distances?
I looked at the layout of the t56 and I think I mixed up couple of the plugs and didn't plug one of the neccissary one up at all. I have eliminated the the skip shift with a resistor and I think I accidentally plugged up one of the pigtails in its place.
It has been a loooong time since I drove one with a functioning skip shift. A modified Subaru drain plug (M22x1.5 thread; grind down the built-in washer of the head) can replace your CAGS solenoid in the mid-case so you don't have to question if that's the problem.
From here:
See if you can reverse your wiring to the reverse lockout solenoid and the CAGS solenoid. The CAGS will block 2nd for sure; I can't remember if it'll fully block 3rd. It should not ever block 4th, 5th, or 6th.
Before you do anything at all, Reverse should be very tough to shift to the right, but should push forward into R without problem.
I think you're on the right path w/ the pigtails.
From here:
See if you can reverse your wiring to the reverse lockout solenoid and the CAGS solenoid. The CAGS will block 2nd for sure; I can't remember if it'll fully block 3rd. It should not ever block 4th, 5th, or 6th.
Before you do anything at all, Reverse should be very tough to shift to the right, but should push forward into R without problem.
I think you're on the right path w/ the pigtails.
Trending Topics
Because this issue seems to affect gears randomly it is most likely that this is in fact wiring related rather than clutch related. JMD makes a good point above...give it a try and let us know what you find. Thanks,
Best stupid/easy fix in my lifetime!!! Removed and reinstalled that damn thing 4 times, total. Twice for an outta balance PP and twice for this reason. I'm a moron...
Pigtails were all outta wack...I'm gonna need GM to either color coordinate them or create differing pigtails so this wont happen...blue pigtail=blue inlet? white pigtail=white inlet? Nope!!!
Pigtails were all outta wack...I'm gonna need GM to either color coordinate them or create differing pigtails so this wont happen...blue pigtail=blue inlet? white pigtail=white inlet? Nope!!!






