everythings new, clutch not fully disengaging?
#1
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everythings new, clutch not fully disengaging?
ok, just finished putting my Monster Stage 3 premium clutch package and rebuilt stage 2 Tick transmission in the car, went to bleed the clutch to find the master is leaking, so i got a brand new stock master, bleed the system and took it for a drive
drives a lot like stock, but that could be all the brake fluid thats been split over the clutch the past 3 days trying to bleed the system with a bad master
only put 1 mile on the car so far but heres what im experiencing:
- clutch is engaging off the floor
- doesnt want to go into 2nd easily
- doesnt shift into 1, 2, or 3 like butter
- sitting with the car off, shifting into every gear is relatively hard and takes a little time before it will even go into a gear (same when sitting with clutch depressed at idle)
does the clutch just need to be bleed a couple more times? thats what im thinking but i wont have time until after work tomorrow to find out so figured id ask here then give Tick a call on monday
drives a lot like stock, but that could be all the brake fluid thats been split over the clutch the past 3 days trying to bleed the system with a bad master
only put 1 mile on the car so far but heres what im experiencing:
- clutch is engaging off the floor
- doesnt want to go into 2nd easily
- doesnt shift into 1, 2, or 3 like butter
- sitting with the car off, shifting into every gear is relatively hard and takes a little time before it will even go into a gear (same when sitting with clutch depressed at idle)
does the clutch just need to be bleed a couple more times? thats what im thinking but i wont have time until after work tomorrow to find out so figured id ask here then give Tick a call on monday
Last edited by greatskiiiier; 06-26-2010 at 07:56 PM.
#4
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Crack your bleeder so it doesn't drain fluid much at all, but when the pedal is pressed, it leaks out.
Put some hose/line in the wire end of a 90 degree spark plug boot and put the plug side on the bleeder.
Take the reservoir cap & rubber seal off. The other end of the hose points down and is submerged in the fluid of the reservoir so bubbles will be visible. Use a paper clip or a helper or something to hold the hose submerged.
If you pump the pedal for 5 minutes you will get rid of all your air in the hydraulic system. Then you can close the bleeder and drive it.
It can be done without a helper; you don't have to buy anything extra.
That's the JMD method.
Put some hose/line in the wire end of a 90 degree spark plug boot and put the plug side on the bleeder.
Take the reservoir cap & rubber seal off. The other end of the hose points down and is submerged in the fluid of the reservoir so bubbles will be visible. Use a paper clip or a helper or something to hold the hose submerged.
If you pump the pedal for 5 minutes you will get rid of all your air in the hydraulic system. Then you can close the bleeder and drive it.
It can be done without a helper; you don't have to buy anything extra.
That's the JMD method.
#5
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lol, ya i just did it for a while with my friend and its driving fin sweet.. was blocking me out of 2nd for a while but after a couple of miles it started to go in just like the other gears, and the other gears started to go in smoother n not so notchy, now they all go in pretty smooth
i think the syncros just needed to bed-in and now im golden... alot more driving to go
but what is up with everyone complaining about the monster stg 3, it drives like a dream and still only has 10 miles on it!
i think the syncros just needed to bed-in and now im golden... alot more driving to go
but what is up with everyone complaining about the monster stg 3, it drives like a dream and still only has 10 miles on it!