Master/Slave Cylinder issues
06-29-2010, 01:46 PM
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Master/Slave Cylinder issues Well I finally got my car back together with the new motor (408ci LQ9). I'm now having some issues with the clutch pedal and am pretty sure there is air in the line. How the air got there is the bigger issue. Some days, the clutch will feel great and drive perfectly. Park it and let it sit overnight, and the next morning my clutch pedal goes to the floor. I haven't bled the clutch at all since the motor was put in because upon installation, the clutch pedal felt fine and properly engaged/disengaged. I'm baffled as to why air enters the system while it is just sitting parked. I don't see any leaking, and the reservoir is topped off properly. Does this mean that either the master cylinder or slave is shot and I should go ahead and buy new and not waste time bleeding broken hydraulics? Granted the slave sat in the tranny and the master stayed in the engine bay hooked up for about a year and a half, they both have only 2k miles on them before the old engine let go.
So in short, should I chalk this up to failed hydraulics and order a new Tick Master and GM slave? Or is it possible air just needs to be bled out of the lines and all will be good with my current master and slave cylinder. Thanks guys.
So in short, should I chalk this up to failed hydraulics and order a new Tick Master and GM slave? Or is it possible air just needs to be bled out of the lines and all will be good with my current master and slave cylinder. Thanks guys.
Last edited by CJJones87; 06-29-2010 at 02:18 PM.
06-29-2010, 09:51 PM
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I have the same problem. When I stick the mity vac to bleed the system air will come out forever, when I bleed it traditionally it will work great for a day then let air back in. I have the GM slave with 20,000 miles and the stock master with 125,000 miles.
You can try bleeding it the traditional way (have friend pump clutch 15 times and hold to the floor while you crack the bleeder for 5 seconds, repeat 10-15 times) It will start working perfectly (i think), the next few days is when you will find out if you have a leak or not.
I ordered an 02 master cylinder with the drill mod, hopefully that fixes it.
You can try bleeding it the traditional way (have friend pump clutch 15 times and hold to the floor while you crack the bleeder for 5 seconds, repeat 10-15 times) It will start working perfectly (i think), the next few days is when you will find out if you have a leak or not.
I ordered an 02 master cylinder with the drill mod, hopefully that fixes it.
06-29-2010, 10:37 PM
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Alright, I will try bleeding it the traditional way with another person pumping the clutch for me. I guess if that works and somehow air is let back into the system over the next few days, I've got either a busted slave cylinder or a busted master cylinder. Thanks for the reply.
07-09-2010, 05:31 PM
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I would like to know what you find out. I have almost the same problem. I can drive my car and it will be fine for about a week, and then after it sits for a few days the pedal will have a little extra freeplay, and then by the time I get the car to work the clutch is engaging right off the floor.
I have a all brand new setup. Wilwood 7/8" master, GM Slave, LS7 Clutch, LS2 flywheel, and a remote bleeder.
What I have found works really good is I submerge the remote bleeder in a clear container of brake fluid, and pump the pedal a few times. On the last pump I just pull up the pedal, then remove the bleeder from the container of fluid, and then shut the bleeder. Works like a CHARM....until one morning my clutch doesn't work again.
I'm thinking air is getting into the system somehow, even though I never see any when bleeding. Either that or I need a shim or something.
GM Clutch hydraulics suck ***....but I love their engines.
I have a all brand new setup. Wilwood 7/8" master, GM Slave, LS7 Clutch, LS2 flywheel, and a remote bleeder.
What I have found works really good is I submerge the remote bleeder in a clear container of brake fluid, and pump the pedal a few times. On the last pump I just pull up the pedal, then remove the bleeder from the container of fluid, and then shut the bleeder. Works like a CHARM....until one morning my clutch doesn't work again.
I'm thinking air is getting into the system somehow, even though I never see any when bleeding. Either that or I need a shim or something.
GM Clutch hydraulics suck ***....but I love their engines.
07-24-2010, 02:58 PM
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I would like to know what you find out. I have almost the same problem. I can drive my car and it will be fine for about a week, and then after it sits for a few days the pedal will have a little extra freeplay, and then by the time I get the car to work the clutch is engaging right off the floor.
I have a all brand new setup. Wilwood 7/8" master, GM Slave, LS7 Clutch, LS2 flywheel, and a remote bleeder.
What I have found works really good is I submerge the remote bleeder in a clear container of brake fluid, and pump the pedal a few times. On the last pump I just pull up the pedal, then remove the bleeder from the container of fluid, and then shut the bleeder. Works like a CHARM....until one morning my clutch doesn't work again.
I'm thinking air is getting into the system somehow, even though I never see any when bleeding. Either that or I need a shim or something.
GM Clutch hydraulics suck ***....but I love their engines.
I have a all brand new setup. Wilwood 7/8" master, GM Slave, LS7 Clutch, LS2 flywheel, and a remote bleeder.
What I have found works really good is I submerge the remote bleeder in a clear container of brake fluid, and pump the pedal a few times. On the last pump I just pull up the pedal, then remove the bleeder from the container of fluid, and then shut the bleeder. Works like a CHARM....until one morning my clutch doesn't work again.
I'm thinking air is getting into the system somehow, even though I never see any when bleeding. Either that or I need a shim or something.
GM Clutch hydraulics suck ***....but I love their engines.
You ever find your problem? I replaced my master and after a few days my ls7 clutch started engaging off the floor again. Might be time to replace the slave, praying that finally fixes it.
07-26-2010, 03:46 PM
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Yup, ended up just needing a very thorough bleeding. I am guessing when I re-installed the new engine and hooked up the master and slave, the master got some air bubbles in it. I believe this is due to the master pulling more fluid from the reservoir to fill the slave. When I got home from the first drive, the clutch master cylinder reservoir was almost empty, so I just topped it off to the step. I ended up bleeding it the traditional way with another person and we were at it for about an hour lol. Went through almost an entire 12oz bottle of brake fluid. Granted I let the reservoir go empty twice lol - This is my first time bleeding these F-body hydraulics. But all in all, it needed nothing more than a good bleeding. Now I bought an adjustable RAM for nothing lol. Hopes this helps you guys figure out your problems.
