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LS7 Clutch&Flywheel-Expected Changes?

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Old 07-05-2010, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
He means rotating mass, not pedal feel...it's physically got more material in the flywheel/pressure plate, so it's got more rotational inertia...which will actually make it nicer to drive around town.
Yes I am talking anout rotating mass again I mentioned this fact only because for the guys/gals looking for the most out of their car at the track this clutch will reduce your et. but yes all around great daily driver clutch.
Old 07-05-2010, 11:34 AM
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Did the 01-02 F bodies come with a better clutch? If I don't have to add the extra weight, than I'd rather not.
Old 07-05-2010, 11:55 AM
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same clutch just better hydralics. I would recomend just getting a spec stage2 and resurfacing your oe. flywheel since you have low mi. good luck.
Old 07-05-2010, 03:36 PM
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The 01-02 cars came with the LS6 clutch
Old 07-05-2010, 06:01 PM
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The LS7 clutch is great for mild builds - just expect to have a low pedal for a little bit while it adjusts. After a few weeks it will be perfect.

Replace the pilot bearing and slave cylinder while you are down there.
Old 07-05-2010, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
The 01-02 cars came with the LS6 clutch
I'm for some reason liking this better. I really don't want to screw around with the car too much and it wont be drag raced, etc. I think it would be a better choice, is the flywheel and everything else in this clutch the same weight as the 98-00 clutch or is it a significant difference?
Old 07-06-2010, 06:42 PM
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Should be very close to the same weight
Old 07-07-2010, 09:18 PM
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when i first put the ls7 clutch in my car a couple weeks ago...the clutch pedal was barely off the floor and i was worried and now after 300-some miles the clutch pedal is near normal....great clutch i love it!!!! highly recommended!!!!
Old 07-08-2010, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 01SLPSS
when i first put the ls7 clutch in my car a couple weeks ago...the clutch pedal was barely off the floor and i was worried and now after 300-some miles the clutch pedal is near normal....great clutch i love it!!!! highly recommended!!!!
There is no way to adjust for this at all?
Old 07-08-2010, 05:50 PM
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i love mine, the pedal does feel much lighter than my ol stocker. ls7 all the way!
Old 07-08-2010, 06:10 PM
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I have the LS7 clutch in my 99SS new pilot tick master new slave. Love the clutch better than stock feel better than stock bite just better all around and for the price can't be beat for a mild combo. However I did need a shim behind the slave. You need to measure the clearance with ANY clutch. The reason I needed a shim is cause my new slave was about 3/16" shorter than the one I replaced. The tick master might have taken care of the problem but why chance having to pull the trans again.
Old 07-08-2010, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dave70
I have the LS7 clutch in my 99SS new pilot tick master new slave. Love the clutch better than stock feel better than stock bite just better all around and for the price can't be beat for a mild combo. However I did need a shim behind the slave. You need to measure the clearance with ANY clutch. The reason I needed a shim is cause my new slave was about 3/16" shorter than the one I replaced. The tick master might have taken care of the problem but why chance having to pull the trans again.
What If I'm just replacing it with a 01-02 GM slave? Do I need to shim it still? If so, can you just tell me in a nut shell what needs to be shimmed so I can tell my buddy what to look for.
Old 07-08-2010, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by maxspeed05V
Realy, how much heavier?

I just ordered mine from scoggin with the RAM lightweight flywheel. So I hope that makes up for the differance in weight.
I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with my LS7 clutch. Turned out to be 5lbs less rotating mass overall. Feels almost stock, I love it.
Old 07-08-2010, 11:04 PM
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The one i bought was a 01-02 GM slave. The problem is that all the components Flywheel,slave Etc. can have varying lengths that will give you diff distance from the pressure plate to the face of the throwout bearing. you need to measure this distance with all new clutch installs with or without a new slave. Most of the time it's ok but if not it will cause problems. it's easy to do once you have the trans out. there is a great write up on here by Gen114 (i think). look for it in the stickys.
Old 07-09-2010, 04:38 PM
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Ordered everything for my car yesterday...car has ALMOST 200K on the original 2000 clutch (195,800 right now)...it will make 200K before I have to change it, and I plan to do that just to say I did it...but it's showing it's age finally (2 weeks ago the pedal stuck to the floor for the first time EVER, and it's done it twice since)...it's still driving fine, but the throwout bearing has a bit of a squeak to it, and once in a while it spins (the clutch instead of the tires) if I smash second real hard too...so I ordered all new hydraulics (new stock master, new 2001/2002 slave with throwout bearing, which I think is the only one you can get from GM now anyways, new pilot bearing, new LS7 flywheel, and new LS7 clutch disk and PP).

Has anyone bothered to have a shop check the balance of the clutch/flywheel assembly? I'm thinking that if it's coming from GM and intended for a C6 ZO6...it's gotta be well within their acceptable tolerance anyways, but if someone says a reputable shop that knows what they're doing with a balancer said it was out, and corrected it...then I'd like to know.
Old 07-09-2010, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dave70
The one i bought was a 01-02 GM slave. The problem is that all the components Flywheel,slave Etc. can have varying lengths that will give you diff distance from the pressure plate to the face of the throwout bearing. you need to measure this distance with all new clutch installs with or without a new slave. Most of the time it's ok but if not it will cause problems. it's easy to do once you have the trans out. there is a great write up on here by Gen114 (i think). look for it in the stickys.
Thats actually kinda defeating the purpose of a hydraulic clutch...the slave doesn't really retract itself...the weight of the pressure plate retracts it when the master allows fluid to come back (including up into the reservoir when the master is fully retracted IF necessary). The throwout bearing will wind up resting against the fingers of the pressure plate when there's no hydraulic pressure behind it, and it will extend the same distance for a given amount of pedal travel as it would have regardless of a shim...thats why the master cylinder has it's bypass hole to the reservoir...that can ONLY talk to the rest of the system when the master is fully retracted...as the clutch wears and the pressure plate fingers walk out away from the engine (a very slight amount), when your foot comes off the pedal, the pressure plate will force a little more fluid up into the reservoir and it will continue to equalize.

I'd be willing to bet 9 times out of 10, when a freshly installed clutch is grabbing close to the floor, it's air in the hydraulics that is eventually working it's way back up to the reservoir (and thus making the engagement point come up higher off the floor)...air is the ONLY reason the clutch won't equalize and grab at the normal pedal height...because as you first step on the pedal, it has to compress before any hydraulic pressure can build.
Old 07-11-2010, 11:15 AM
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is there a break in period for a LS7 clutch ?

I just got mine in and Ive been easy on it so far. Im just curious .
Old 07-11-2010, 06:26 PM
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Some say 500 miles but I had mine broke in within 15 minutes after a couple of launches and first through fourth runs
Old 07-11-2010, 07:09 PM
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for break in period just drive it in stop and go traffic for like 50 mi. and your good to go.
Old 07-11-2010, 08:14 PM
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If a new ZO6 owners manual doesn't say anything specific to do to the clutch...I'd just drive the car, thats all I intend to do...bolt it in and start driving.


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