Want to get some opinions on my diagnosis - blown clutch slave
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Want to get some opinions on my diagnosis - blown clutch slave
Heading back from New England Summer Nationals in Worcester, MA on Saturday I got caught in stop and go traffic on the highway. About an hour into that I completely lost the clutch pedal: the pedal was on the floor and I couldn't shift. I limped it up the breakdown lane a couple miles to a rest area. I saw fluid coming out of the bottom of the bellhousing and assumed at that point the slave cylinder was toast. After waiting 4 hours for my dad to come down with my trailer we got it home at about 1030PM that night.
I took the tranmission out today (surprisingly I do have enough room to get it out and leave the LS1 in) and confirmed that the slave did blow apart. Looking at the bit of fluid that was still in the master it was completely black.
Now this master, slave, pressure plate/disk, and flywheel only have ~2000 miles on them. No racing, but the occasional burnout + ripping through the gears from time to time. The master cylinder is a Wilwood 1 3/4", GM slave, LS7 clutch, LS2 flywheel, Summit braided clutch line. I do have the line wrapped in reflective/heat protective tape but the headers aren't wrapped or coated. I have a feeling that the line being that close to the headers mixed with the stop and go driving boiled the fluid and caused the slave to fail.
I would just like to get some confirmation and other ideas on that. Should I wrap the headers? Get a longer clutch line and run it across the firewall and down the top of the transmission?
Also, does anyone offer an upgraded slave cylinder or should I just go with another new GM slave?
I took the tranmission out today (surprisingly I do have enough room to get it out and leave the LS1 in) and confirmed that the slave did blow apart. Looking at the bit of fluid that was still in the master it was completely black.
Now this master, slave, pressure plate/disk, and flywheel only have ~2000 miles on them. No racing, but the occasional burnout + ripping through the gears from time to time. The master cylinder is a Wilwood 1 3/4", GM slave, LS7 clutch, LS2 flywheel, Summit braided clutch line. I do have the line wrapped in reflective/heat protective tape but the headers aren't wrapped or coated. I have a feeling that the line being that close to the headers mixed with the stop and go driving boiled the fluid and caused the slave to fail.
I would just like to get some confirmation and other ideas on that. Should I wrap the headers? Get a longer clutch line and run it across the firewall and down the top of the transmission?
Also, does anyone offer an upgraded slave cylinder or should I just go with another new GM slave?
Last edited by nissan 570sx; 07-05-2010 at 01:41 PM.
#2
FormerVendor
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I had a customer come in here that had this conversion.
We updated his hydraulics to a Tick/Tilton 7/8 master with a Monster 11" Ceramic Race Clutch and it works flawlessly. The car had a CNC master in it before and it was just too small, the 7/8 Tilton is perfect.
We didn't have to wrap the headers or the line, it fit perfectly without issues. Hell, we even installed a Tick remote bleeder in the car to make things easier.
We updated his hydraulics to a Tick/Tilton 7/8 master with a Monster 11" Ceramic Race Clutch and it works flawlessly. The car had a CNC master in it before and it was just too small, the 7/8 Tilton is perfect.
We didn't have to wrap the headers or the line, it fit perfectly without issues. Hell, we even installed a Tick remote bleeder in the car to make things easier.
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
So you think the Wilwood 3/4 master is too small? I haven't heard of any of the other 240 guys having problems with their 3/4 master. How would a too small master cause the fluid to become black and the seal(s) in the slave to blow out?
I bought a bunch of header wrap today and a new GM slave so we'll see how that goes this weekend.
I bought a bunch of header wrap today and a new GM slave so we'll see how that goes this weekend.
#4
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So you think the Wilwood 3/4 master is too small? I haven't heard of any of the other 240 guys having problems with their 3/4 master. How would a too small master cause the fluid to become black and the seal(s) in the slave to blow out?
I bought a bunch of header wrap today and a new GM slave so we'll see how that goes this weekend.
I bought a bunch of header wrap today and a new GM slave so we'll see how that goes this weekend.
#6
my guess is just bad luck, the fluid turns black from the hoses and other seals it touches, my master cyl is also new and the fluid is black in the res but when i bleed it its clear.