Clunk / bang when shifting or disengaging clutch
#41
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 778
Likes: 181
From: Montgomery (Lake Conroe,) TX north of Houston
Like many of you, I've got the same clunking sound between shifts coming from what sounds like the rear.
When I recently did my master cylinder/slave cylinder replacement, I noticed some play in the differential. I suspected thats what was causing the clunking but after reading this entire thread, now I'm not so sure .
When I recently did my master cylinder/slave cylinder replacement, I noticed some play in the differential. I suspected thats what was causing the clunking but after reading this entire thread, now I'm not so sure .
#44
Hey guys, just wanted to add some new info on this thread. I have (had) two "clunks" if you will:
1) happens BEFORE I upshift when I push the clutch in at speed to switch gears - feels like the clutch doesn't let go smoothly - feels like the drivetrain shifts underneath the car and makes a clunk or thud sound.
2) happens AFTER I have already up shifted and am taking my foot back off the clutch pedal - once again feels like there is slack in the drivetrain and it pops or clunks as the clutch hooks again.
If you are having problem #2, I had the U-Joints on the driveshaft replaced and this completely fixed the problem. The car will now go back into gear smoother and i can shift faster. Still no fix for problem #1, which is very annoying.
There seemed to be people with a few different kinds of clunks, so thought I would share in case any one of you had problem #2. By the way, new fluids and a transmission mount did nothing to fix either problem, just FYI. If anyone has any feedback on problem #1, I would love to hear about it.
1) happens BEFORE I upshift when I push the clutch in at speed to switch gears - feels like the clutch doesn't let go smoothly - feels like the drivetrain shifts underneath the car and makes a clunk or thud sound.
2) happens AFTER I have already up shifted and am taking my foot back off the clutch pedal - once again feels like there is slack in the drivetrain and it pops or clunks as the clutch hooks again.
If you are having problem #2, I had the U-Joints on the driveshaft replaced and this completely fixed the problem. The car will now go back into gear smoother and i can shift faster. Still no fix for problem #1, which is very annoying.
There seemed to be people with a few different kinds of clunks, so thought I would share in case any one of you had problem #2. By the way, new fluids and a transmission mount did nothing to fix either problem, just FYI. If anyone has any feedback on problem #1, I would love to hear about it.
Last edited by Onyx_Black_Z28; 04-16-2012 at 01:12 PM.
#45
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
From: Stockbridge, MI
Mine got a little better when i replaced my rear end with an S60, and bought a new drive shaft. I also believe my trans could use a rebuild. Other than that, i don't know what else there is to replace. I think it's just due to poor clearances in the trans, coupled with Fbodies having no sound deadening which makes things sound worse than they are. I also have a Poly trans mount, which only seems to amplify everything. I'm so sick of chasing down vibrations and clunks on this car, that I'm just driving it as is, and ignoring it. ha ha.
#46
Mine got a little better when i replaced my rear end with an S60, and bought a new drive shaft. I also believe my trans could use a rebuild. Other than that, i don't know what else there is to replace. I think it's just due to poor clearances in the trans, coupled with Fbodies having no sound deadening which makes things sound worse than they are. I also have a Poly trans mount, which only seems to amplify everything. I'm so sick of chasing down vibrations and clunks on this car, that I'm just driving it as is, and ignoring it. ha ha.
#47
Great news - this problem was COMPLETELY fixed for me with a Tick master cylinder. I don't even know how to describe the difference - it feels like the drivetrain is about 5x more firm after the install. I had none of the typical master cylinder issues you read about with the f-body.. no problems going into 1st/Reverse, no problems getting locked out at high RPM shifts. My problems were more pronounced at part throttle. I know there are some in this thread have already done a tick install with no luck, but it worked for me. For those of you who haven't already done the U-Joints, that also made a definite difference for me. Good luck!
#48
Mine does same as op's and its driving me nuts. Only bangs when trying to be easy on it.
2000 ta m6.
600 miles tops on all of the following.
408ci fresh rebuild
Level 2 t56 from tick performance
Tick performance adjustable clutch master
Monster 3 clutch, pressure plate, flywheel
Gm throwout and pilot
10 bolt rearend rebuild with 4.10
I'm going to do poly motor mounts and u joints. I'll post results after install.
Soooo annoying
2000 ta m6.
600 miles tops on all of the following.
408ci fresh rebuild
Level 2 t56 from tick performance
Tick performance adjustable clutch master
Monster 3 clutch, pressure plate, flywheel
Gm throwout and pilot
10 bolt rearend rebuild with 4.10
I'm going to do poly motor mounts and u joints. I'll post results after install.
Soooo annoying
#51
I have a IMO adjustable torque arm and have plenty of slop in the drivetrain. I replaced tranny mount and that did nothing. Next i think I will do u joints and if that doesn't work I'm doin motor mounts.
#54
I just did poly motor mounts over the weekend and it seemed to help a lot. There is still slop in my drivetrain though, just not as bad. My u-joints look fine but I might just replace them to rule those out also.
#55
Bump. Any more thoughts, results or fixes? Same problem, 98 z28, 88k miles, longtubes, exhaust, intake, wires and plugs, stage 2 clutch, eaton posi unit, gm 4.10s... Same noise same issue. Hopefully fix tomorrow...?
#56
I've got a 94 z28 LT1 T56 car with the older style throwout. 106k, pretty sure the trans has never been rebuilt. I'm also chasing down what seems to be the same issue.
After sitting for 6 months, I just did a RAM powergrip clutch, poly engine and trans mounts, new UMI tunnel brace adjustable torque arm, and LCA's. I also put on a used OE 3 rivers aluminum DS.
I don't recall any clunking before I installed these parts, but I have it now, or at least it's pronounced enough that I now notice it. I have the solid bronze pilot bushing which I inspected and found to be in good condition so I did not replace.
The clutch engages smooth and I don't get any crazy noise or banging at low speeds.
I get the clunk in gear when I go on and off power. If I'm on the freeway, for instance, and I put it into 4th or 5th and transition from load to no load it clunks every time.
It literally sounds like something is hitting the floor boards. There's gotta be some slack in between the axles and the output shaft.
This weekend I'm going to rebuild the rear end and install some 4:10's...and try to get the ring and pinion a bit more tightened up. I do have some minor vibration which feels like it's coming from the rear end, hence the overhaul, but no other drive-line vibration that is noteworthy.
I'll also be inspecting the output shaft play and u-joints again.
This car is also sitting on all new umi tubular suspension up front, 3pt SFC's, bilstein shocks, umi panhard, new end links and sway bar bushings, so there's no way my noise is coming from anything but the trans, DS, or rear end.
I'll report back what I find and whether or not the rear end rebuild improves anything.
The next course of action is to pull the trans and get it rebuilt to rule that out. Luckily it comes out in about 45 mins without that stupid torque arm in the way
After sitting for 6 months, I just did a RAM powergrip clutch, poly engine and trans mounts, new UMI tunnel brace adjustable torque arm, and LCA's. I also put on a used OE 3 rivers aluminum DS.
I don't recall any clunking before I installed these parts, but I have it now, or at least it's pronounced enough that I now notice it. I have the solid bronze pilot bushing which I inspected and found to be in good condition so I did not replace.
The clutch engages smooth and I don't get any crazy noise or banging at low speeds.
I get the clunk in gear when I go on and off power. If I'm on the freeway, for instance, and I put it into 4th or 5th and transition from load to no load it clunks every time.
It literally sounds like something is hitting the floor boards. There's gotta be some slack in between the axles and the output shaft.
This weekend I'm going to rebuild the rear end and install some 4:10's...and try to get the ring and pinion a bit more tightened up. I do have some minor vibration which feels like it's coming from the rear end, hence the overhaul, but no other drive-line vibration that is noteworthy.
I'll also be inspecting the output shaft play and u-joints again.
This car is also sitting on all new umi tubular suspension up front, 3pt SFC's, bilstein shocks, umi panhard, new end links and sway bar bushings, so there's no way my noise is coming from anything but the trans, DS, or rear end.
I'll report back what I find and whether or not the rear end rebuild improves anything.
The next course of action is to pull the trans and get it rebuilt to rule that out. Luckily it comes out in about 45 mins without that stupid torque arm in the way
#58
I've got a 94 z28 LT1 T56 car with the older style throwout. 106k, pretty sure the trans has never been rebuilt. I'm also chasing down what seems to be the same issue.
After sitting for 6 months, I just did a RAM powergrip clutch, poly engine and trans mounts, new UMI tunnel brace adjustable torque arm, and LCA's. I also put on a used OE 3 rivers aluminum DS.
I don't recall any clunking before I installed these parts, but I have it now, or at least it's pronounced enough that I now notice it. I have the solid bronze pilot bushing which I inspected and found to be in good condition so I did not replace.
The clutch engages smooth and I don't get any crazy noise or banging at low speeds.
I get the clunk in gear when I go on and off power. If I'm on the freeway, for instance, and I put it into 4th or 5th and transition from load to no load it clunks every time.
It literally sounds like something is hitting the floor boards. There's gotta be some slack in between the axles and the output shaft.
This weekend I'm going to rebuild the rear end and install some 4:10's...and try to get the ring and pinion a bit more tightened up. I do have some minor vibration which feels like it's coming from the rear end, hence the overhaul, but no other drive-line vibration that is noteworthy.
I'll also be inspecting the output shaft play and u-joints again.
This car is also sitting on all new umi tubular suspension up front, 3pt SFC's, bilstein shocks, umi panhard, new end links and sway bar bushings, so there's no way my noise is coming from anything but the trans, DS, or rear end.
I'll report back what I find and whether or not the rear end rebuild improves anything.
The next course of action is to pull the trans and get it rebuilt to rule that out. Luckily it comes out in about 45 mins without that stupid torque arm in the way
After sitting for 6 months, I just did a RAM powergrip clutch, poly engine and trans mounts, new UMI tunnel brace adjustable torque arm, and LCA's. I also put on a used OE 3 rivers aluminum DS.
I don't recall any clunking before I installed these parts, but I have it now, or at least it's pronounced enough that I now notice it. I have the solid bronze pilot bushing which I inspected and found to be in good condition so I did not replace.
The clutch engages smooth and I don't get any crazy noise or banging at low speeds.
I get the clunk in gear when I go on and off power. If I'm on the freeway, for instance, and I put it into 4th or 5th and transition from load to no load it clunks every time.
It literally sounds like something is hitting the floor boards. There's gotta be some slack in between the axles and the output shaft.
This weekend I'm going to rebuild the rear end and install some 4:10's...and try to get the ring and pinion a bit more tightened up. I do have some minor vibration which feels like it's coming from the rear end, hence the overhaul, but no other drive-line vibration that is noteworthy.
I'll also be inspecting the output shaft play and u-joints again.
This car is also sitting on all new umi tubular suspension up front, 3pt SFC's, bilstein shocks, umi panhard, new end links and sway bar bushings, so there's no way my noise is coming from anything but the trans, DS, or rear end.
I'll report back what I find and whether or not the rear end rebuild improves anything.
The next course of action is to pull the trans and get it rebuilt to rule that out. Luckily it comes out in about 45 mins without that stupid torque arm in the way
#59
My 01 ss just started clunking at a stop. If I shift to reverse or 1st I get the clunk while sliding it into the gear. Don't notice it while shifting at speed.only does it when hot. Just tried in garage and it is fine.yesterday after some canyon carving it started doing it. In neutral at very low speeds it also sounds like the diff is clicking like my old locker used to in my jeep. But less click click, and more clunk clunk. Dif and trans just flushed.