Clutch????
Clutch???? Looking for a clutch for my car. I got 98 camaro heads and cam makes 450hp on the motor and on the dope makes like 600hp and maybe 550- 600TQ. what yall guys recommend? I owned 3 spec clutches stage 3 the first one last me 3-4 years and the last two lasted like less then a year. Springs keep popping out for some reason.
I been hearing good things about monster clutch. My question is my friend that owns a performance shop says he put a spec clutch and a monster clutch side by side said there the same identical clutch setup only difference one blue and other is green. Is this true?????? Is it the same clutch setup just have different names? Any info on this? Thanks!
I been hearing good things about monster clutch. My question is my friend that owns a performance shop says he put a spec clutch and a monster clutch side by side said there the same identical clutch setup only difference one blue and other is green. Is this true?????? Is it the same clutch setup just have different names? Any info on this? Thanks!
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Look into SPEC. They have been making LS1 Clutches for a while. I currently have a Spec Stage 1 and make 400 hp to the ground and 460 at flywheel. I have never had an issue. Of coarse I don't go and dump it at 5,000 rpms with slicks on out of the hole. If your doing that kind of racing I suggest you look into making more power so you can keep the same times with out having to do that kind of crap. Also you'll go through clutches by the week racing like that unless you wanna drop a grand on one.
The Spec 1 clutch holds 599 ftlbs at the crank. Thats PLENTY for my car. No need to buy something you dont need. Look into a spec 2 for your car. More surface material will last longer period. And unless you make more than 700 ftlbs you wont need higher. (while driving the correct way)
Also since youve had issues with clutches in the past make sure you do a proper BREAK IN. Some guys or gals just romp on it with there dicks to the floor as soon as they finish the install. You need AT LEAST 500 miles on a new clutch with normal driving before you can get on it. I personally suggest 1000 miles. Thats probably why mine last a long time. This means no more than 55 percent throttle, no high rpm downshifting and no real man shifting. Thats right, save the he man **** till your clutch is broken in. Then race
The Spec 1 clutch holds 599 ftlbs at the crank. Thats PLENTY for my car. No need to buy something you dont need. Look into a spec 2 for your car. More surface material will last longer period. And unless you make more than 700 ftlbs you wont need higher. (while driving the correct way)
Also since youve had issues with clutches in the past make sure you do a proper BREAK IN. Some guys or gals just romp on it with there dicks to the floor as soon as they finish the install. You need AT LEAST 500 miles on a new clutch with normal driving before you can get on it. I personally suggest 1000 miles. Thats probably why mine last a long time. This means no more than 55 percent throttle, no high rpm downshifting and no real man shifting. Thats right, save the he man **** till your clutch is broken in. Then race
Spec and Monster are two completely different clutches.
While every clutch may appear to be the same they are not. Our units are 12" setups vs their 11" setups, they have a 12" option that starts life as a completely different unit, again not the same.
Cerametallic friction materials all appear the same, the mix we use is 100% proprietary and is not shared with any other manufacturer, the same goes with our flywheels and our pressure plates.
We have a few options that will more than hold the power that you are making, give us a call and we'll go over them with you.
Have your friend that owns a performance shop call Steve, the owner of Monster Clutch Co., and he will be more than happy to go over all the differences that make our units different.
While every clutch may appear to be the same they are not. Our units are 12" setups vs their 11" setups, they have a 12" option that starts life as a completely different unit, again not the same.
Cerametallic friction materials all appear the same, the mix we use is 100% proprietary and is not shared with any other manufacturer, the same goes with our flywheels and our pressure plates.
We have a few options that will more than hold the power that you are making, give us a call and we'll go over them with you.
Have your friend that owns a performance shop call Steve, the owner of Monster Clutch Co., and he will be more than happy to go over all the differences that make our units different.
Look into SPEC. They have been making LS1 Clutches for a while. I currently have a Spec Stage 1 and make 400 hp to the ground and 460 at flywheel. I have never had an issue. Of coarse I don't go and dump it at 5,000 rpms with slicks on out of the hole. If your doing that kind of racing I suggest you look into making more power so you can keep the same times with out having to do that kind of crap. Also you'll go through clutches by the week racing like that unless you wanna drop a grand on one.
The Spec 1 clutch holds 599 ftlbs at the crank. Thats PLENTY for my car. No need to buy something you dont need. Look into a spec 2 for your car. More surface material will last longer period. And unless you make more than 700 ftlbs you wont need higher. (while driving the correct way)
Also since youve had issues with clutches in the past make sure you do a proper BREAK IN. Some guys or gals just romp on it with there dicks to the floor as soon as they finish the install. You need AT LEAST 500 miles on a new clutch with normal driving before you can get on it. I personally suggest 1000 miles. Thats probably why mine last a long time. This means no more than 55 percent throttle, no high rpm downshifting and no real man shifting. Thats right, save the he man **** till your clutch is broken in. Then race
The Spec 1 clutch holds 599 ftlbs at the crank. Thats PLENTY for my car. No need to buy something you dont need. Look into a spec 2 for your car. More surface material will last longer period. And unless you make more than 700 ftlbs you wont need higher. (while driving the correct way)
Also since youve had issues with clutches in the past make sure you do a proper BREAK IN. Some guys or gals just romp on it with there dicks to the floor as soon as they finish the install. You need AT LEAST 500 miles on a new clutch with normal driving before you can get on it. I personally suggest 1000 miles. Thats probably why mine last a long time. This means no more than 55 percent throttle, no high rpm downshifting and no real man shifting. Thats right, save the he man **** till your clutch is broken in. Then race
Our parts are substantially different from those produced by Monster. From the disc material compounds to the pressure-plate design and modifications therein to the flywheel materals and manufacturing processes. I too would be more than happy to discuss these differences with you or your friend at any time. There are lots of options on the market, but aside from both being clutches, they are not the same.
Beyond that, IV, I appreciate your prespective and am sorry that you were unhappy with the parts performance, and I will be more than happy speak with you about your issues at any time. Keep in mind that clutch kits don't simply break without cause. Spring cage wear is caused by one of a few potential factors including a damaged pilot bearing (or miss-installed pilot bearing), a bent or damaged shaft, or even worn transmission bearing that center the shaft. For spring cage wear to occur you have to have eccentricity in the shaft. Because you saw repeat issues it is quite likely that there was an external factor that simply wasn't recognized and or addressed. Again, let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Beyond that, IV, I appreciate your prespective and am sorry that you were unhappy with the parts performance, and I will be more than happy speak with you about your issues at any time. Keep in mind that clutch kits don't simply break without cause. Spring cage wear is caused by one of a few potential factors including a damaged pilot bearing (or miss-installed pilot bearing), a bent or damaged shaft, or even worn transmission bearing that center the shaft. For spring cage wear to occur you have to have eccentricity in the shaft. Because you saw repeat issues it is quite likely that there was an external factor that simply wasn't recognized and or addressed. Again, let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Thats right! SPEC kicks ***!!! They sent me new throughout and pilot bearings with every new clutch. Even the proper shim so your clutch doesn't engage to close to the floor. Man there clutches are BEASTS and are made very well. You can tell when junk is "junk". Maybe your car is "junk" .. shoulnt be using juice anyways.. N/A all the way! or at least a blower or a cast iron block with a twin turbo set up. I passed on the 300 dollar 150 shot for my car.. Just not worth the mess. CAM and HEADS + BOLT ONS = plenty of power... SO just keep comparing.. Spec is the best bang for your buck.. If you really want to hold what you think you have then order a ls9 Flywheel and clutch from the Zr1 vette. That clutch holds down a lot.. Anywhooo your car is chevy so thats a good start..
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I've have the Monster Level5 WITHOUT ONE ISSUE.You can see my numbers in my Sig.When i first broke in the clutch,1st gear had very little chatter(very little) and that is with the L5.I did the proper break-in and to date NO Chatter.
I know that this clutch(Level5) is probley a lil excessive for you but I couldn't be happier with Monster.Their customer service is top notch as well.
I know the Spec3 i had prior to the Monster,was pretty decent.But I eventually had clutch slip in the higher RPM's (where I make most boost).The Monster still grabs like a ****!
I never compared them side-by-side thou.
I've had Spec3,Centerforce Dual Friction
,and now the Monster.All I can say is for what you get for your money,I will probley never buy anything but.
Last edited by Moz; Aug 1, 2010 at 08:33 AM. Reason: wrong info
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Verdad Gallardo JC I appreciate your support. It is worth noting that the stock ZR1 assenbly will not fit the normal LS1/2/3/6/7 crank as they have different paterns. We offer kits with capacities that range from 599lb.-ft to 1795lb.-ft. so I am sure that we could easily provide something to handle IV's capacity.
If you really think the parts are the same...take a look at them side by side...and if you still think they are the same come on down to the shop and I will be happy to show you what makes SPEC clutches SPEC clutches. Thanks,
If you really think the parts are the same...take a look at them side by side...and if you still think they are the same come on down to the shop and I will be happy to show you what makes SPEC clutches SPEC clutches. Thanks,
Thats right! SPEC kicks ***!!! They sent me new throughout and pilot bearings with every new clutch. Even the proper shim so your clutch doesn't engage to close to the floor. Man there clutches are BEASTS and are made very well. You can tell when junk is "junk". Maybe your car is "junk" .. shoulnt be using juice anyways.. N/A all the way! or at least a blower or a cast iron block with a twin turbo set up. I passed on the 300 dollar 150 shot for my car.. Just not worth the mess. CAM and HEADS + BOLT ONS = plenty of power... SO just keep comparing.. Spec is the best bang for your buck.. If you really want to hold what you think you have then order a ls9 Flywheel and clutch from the Zr1 vette. That clutch holds down a lot.. Anywhooo your car is chevy so thats a good start..
Thats right! SPEC kicks ***!!! They sent me new throughout and pilot bearings with every new clutch. Even the proper shim so your clutch doesn't engage to close to the floor. Man there clutches are BEASTS and are made very well. You can tell when junk is "junk". Maybe your car is "junk" .. shoulnt be using juice anyways.. N/A all the way! or at least a blower or a cast iron block with a twin turbo set up. I passed on the 300 dollar 150 shot for my car.. Just not worth the mess. CAM and HEADS + BOLT ONS = plenty of power... SO just keep comparing.. Spec is the best bang for your buck.. If you really want to hold what you think you have then order a ls9 Flywheel and clutch from the Zr1 vette. That clutch holds down a lot.. Anywhooo your car is chevy so thats a good start..
I thought we are all on the same team here?
I'm afraid to ask advise on a advise site now because someone might call my car junk.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, AL
I suppose the same assumption and accusation could be made about those that support Monster on this thread (or board) too...but statements like this are ridiculous (at least as far as they would relate to us anyway). Come on...really...are you kidding me?
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