Help, problems installing new clutch
Help, problems installing new clutch feawI just installed a new monster level 3 on my car and when I went to start it the clutch felt very light. It fired up right away and made a little noise when I put the clutch down. The clutch didnt seem to be returning as fast as it should so I pumped it a few times, at which point it would not return from the floor. I shut it off and checked the hydraulic fluid level and it was empty. There was also fluid leaking from the belhousing, leading me to believe that it is the line going to the slave cylinder that is leaking or the slave cylinder itself. I have no idea how this could have happened because I didnt disconnect the line from the slave when I took it off the trans. If fluid got on the clutch and the disc can I just clean it off or do I have to replace the disc?
Last edited by 1HOTZ; Aug 2, 2010 at 10:03 PM. Reason: added info
I'm no expert but i would clean it up and use it i don't know why the brake fluid from the clutch slave cylinder would hurt it in any way... Just curious why did you leave the stock master cylinder and slave cylinder in??
I put in a new transmission and slave about six months ago. I left the stock master cylinder in because I didnt feel like messing around with that right now, I just wanted to get the clutch in and be done with it.
Whenever you install a new clutch you should re-bleed the system. This suggestion is made due to the need for adjustment in the bearing depth relative to the new clutch kits lower diaphragm height.
To make this simpler, a new clutch kit will have a lower stack height than a used clutch because the disc is thicker. As the disc wears (and corresponding pressure-plate and flywheel wear) you will see the diaphragm fingers (which the bearing contact) get higher. The older clutch allowed the bearing to be further recessed.
It is also worth noting that putting a new slave and bearing in each time you install a new clutch is suggested because the seals in the slave will wear and fatigue as a result of temperature and use.
The fluid you see dripping from the bell is most likely coming from the slave-cylinder which has popped a seal. You will need to pull the trans. again and check everything out. If the disc is contaminated, and the disc material type is used is like a carbon-semi-metallic compound then it can be cleaned up with brake-clean.
As for the question about why hydraulic fluid would be an issue...any contaminant on the surface (hydraulic fluid, grease from an input-shaft, or oil from an RMS leak) will all affect the friction coefficient of the disc (which is the resistance of the disc material to slippage). I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
To make this simpler, a new clutch kit will have a lower stack height than a used clutch because the disc is thicker. As the disc wears (and corresponding pressure-plate and flywheel wear) you will see the diaphragm fingers (which the bearing contact) get higher. The older clutch allowed the bearing to be further recessed.
It is also worth noting that putting a new slave and bearing in each time you install a new clutch is suggested because the seals in the slave will wear and fatigue as a result of temperature and use.
The fluid you see dripping from the bell is most likely coming from the slave-cylinder which has popped a seal. You will need to pull the trans. again and check everything out. If the disc is contaminated, and the disc material type is used is like a carbon-semi-metallic compound then it can be cleaned up with brake-clean.
As for the question about why hydraulic fluid would be an issue...any contaminant on the surface (hydraulic fluid, grease from an input-shaft, or oil from an RMS leak) will all affect the friction coefficient of the disc (which is the resistance of the disc material to slippage). I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
