Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail?
02-17-2004, 12:05 PM
#22
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I've used the GM Synchromesh it came with (worked well), Pennsoil dino oil (worked well), Redline D4 (shifted like crap, blockers failed within 15k), and now el' cheapo O'Reilly on a freshly built trans...
I'm not exactly "polite" to my transmission either. BUT I got 60k on the original trans without a fluid change at all, and it shifted like a beauty. I switched to D4, and it started on a downward spiral. Once it got to the point the damned thing was almost hopeless to drive, I drained and put in Pennsoil... Things improved a little, which is why I say it worked well -- BUT the damage had already been done. That transmission is now sitting in the garage waiting to be rebuilt as a spare.
I'm not exactly "polite" to my transmission either. BUT I got 60k on the original trans without a fluid change at all, and it shifted like a beauty. I switched to D4, and it started on a downward spiral. Once it got to the point the damned thing was almost hopeless to drive, I drained and put in Pennsoil... Things improved a little, which is why I say it worked well -- BUT the damage had already been done. That transmission is now sitting in the garage waiting to be rebuilt as a spare.
02-18-2004, 12:51 PM
#23
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Bugsquawsher- Thanks for the info! 
Doesn't a 98 Camaro Z28 have an LS1 in it?
You mean all Vette's come with carbon blocker rings, not all T-56's mated to LS1's have carbon blocker rings.
What I mean is that a '98 Z28 (LS1, right?) with a T-56 doesn't have the carbon blockers, it has the paper blockers.
I think I know what you mean, I just want to be sure.
Brains- Thanks for the reply back!
What year was the car you had the T-56 in?
Just so I understand what happened:
So your saying that your T-56 had 60k on it, worked fine, and was running GM Synchromesh (60k on the original factory fluid - Dexron III, or you drained the original fill - Dexron III - and put in GM Synchromesh and ran it for 60k?)
Then, you completely drained the GM Synchromesh and put in 4 qts. of Redline D4 ATF.
After that, it was a downward spiral until you drained it out and put in Penzoil Dexron III.
Next, when you got your replacement trans, you opened up the T-56 that had run the Redline D4 ATF in it and confirmed the blocker rings were destroyed.
I'm not trying to nitpick, I just want to know everything about your experience so as to be precise.
Your experience doesn't mimick that of other users of Redline D4, however it does of the users of GM Synchromesh.
I'm begining to think that it's not really the fluid you use (up to a point), it's just each T-56 in general is different. Some like a lighter fluid (especially in the winter), others like a heavier fluid, others are not shifting right so someone drains the fluid and replaces it with a fluid that either fixes the problem or exacerbates it and then claim that the fluid is great or is crap.
I'm really begining to think there is no "one" answer to the question I've asked.
Which is OK, as long as it's a plausible conclusion.
I thank everyone for their interest...I think this thread is probably the best I've seen so far on getting to the bottom of this issue.
Thanks agian!
Chuck
Doesn't a 98 Camaro Z28 have an LS1 in it?
You mean all Vette's come with carbon blocker rings, not all T-56's mated to LS1's have carbon blocker rings.
What I mean is that a '98 Z28 (LS1, right?) with a T-56 doesn't have the carbon blockers, it has the paper blockers.
I think I know what you mean, I just want to be sure.
Brains- Thanks for the reply back!
What year was the car you had the T-56 in?
Just so I understand what happened:
So your saying that your T-56 had 60k on it, worked fine, and was running GM Synchromesh (60k on the original factory fluid - Dexron III, or you drained the original fill - Dexron III - and put in GM Synchromesh and ran it for 60k?)
Then, you completely drained the GM Synchromesh and put in 4 qts. of Redline D4 ATF.
After that, it was a downward spiral until you drained it out and put in Penzoil Dexron III.
Next, when you got your replacement trans, you opened up the T-56 that had run the Redline D4 ATF in it and confirmed the blocker rings were destroyed.
I'm not trying to nitpick, I just want to know everything about your experience so as to be precise.
Your experience doesn't mimick that of other users of Redline D4, however it does of the users of GM Synchromesh.
I'm begining to think that it's not really the fluid you use (up to a point), it's just each T-56 in general is different. Some like a lighter fluid (especially in the winter), others like a heavier fluid, others are not shifting right so someone drains the fluid and replaces it with a fluid that either fixes the problem or exacerbates it and then claim that the fluid is great or is crap.
I'm really begining to think there is no "one" answer to the question I've asked.
Which is OK, as long as it's a plausible conclusion.
I thank everyone for their interest...I think this thread is probably the best I've seen so far on getting to the bottom of this issue.
Thanks agian!
Chuck
02-18-2004, 12:59 PM
#24
I dont' know that much about vettes,
But I thought someone told me that the LS1 came out in the vette first.
In 97 I think, But I'm not sure
the LS1 came out in 98 for the Fbodies. I think I'll stop there so I don't make an *** of myself
But I thought someone told me that the LS1 came out in the vette first.
In 97 I think, But I'm not sure
the LS1 came out in 98 for the Fbodies. I think I'll stop there so I don't make an *** of myself
Originally Posted by chucky2
Bugsquawsher- Thanks for the info!
Doesn't a 98 Camaro Z28 have an LS1 in it?
You mean all Vette's come with carbon blocker rings, not all T-56's mated to LS1's have carbon blocker rings.
What I mean is that a '98 Z28 (LS1, right?) with a T-56 doesn't have the carbon blockers, it has the paper blockers.
I think I know what you mean, I just want to be sure.
Brains- Thanks for the reply back!
What year was the car you had the T-56 in?
Just so I understand what happened:
So your saying that your T-56 had 60k on it, worked fine, and was running GM Synchromesh (60k on the original factory fluid - Dexron III, or you drained the original fill - Dexron III - and put in GM Synchromesh and ran it for 60k?)
Then, you completely drained the GM Synchromesh and put in 4 qts. of Redline D4 ATF.
After that, it was a downward spiral until you drained it out and put in Penzoil Dexron III.
Next, when you got your replacement trans, you opened up the T-56 that had run the Redline D4 ATF in it and confirmed the blocker rings were destroyed.
I'm not trying to nitpick, I just want to know everything about your experience so as to be precise.
Your experience doesn't mimick that of other users of Redline D4, however it does of the users of GM Synchromesh.
I'm begining to think that it's not really the fluid you use (up to a point), it's just each T-56 in general is different. Some like a lighter fluid (especially in the winter), others like a heavier fluid, others are not shifting right so someone drains the fluid and replaces it with a fluid that either fixes the problem or exacerbates it and then claim that the fluid is great or is crap.
I'm really begining to think there is no "one" answer to the question I've asked.
Which is OK, as long as it's a plausible conclusion.
I thank everyone for their interest...I think this thread is probably the best I've seen so far on getting to the bottom of this issue.
Thanks agian!
Chuck
Doesn't a 98 Camaro Z28 have an LS1 in it?
You mean all Vette's come with carbon blocker rings, not all T-56's mated to LS1's have carbon blocker rings.
What I mean is that a '98 Z28 (LS1, right?) with a T-56 doesn't have the carbon blockers, it has the paper blockers.
I think I know what you mean, I just want to be sure.
Brains- Thanks for the reply back!
What year was the car you had the T-56 in?
Just so I understand what happened:
So your saying that your T-56 had 60k on it, worked fine, and was running GM Synchromesh (60k on the original factory fluid - Dexron III, or you drained the original fill - Dexron III - and put in GM Synchromesh and ran it for 60k?)
Then, you completely drained the GM Synchromesh and put in 4 qts. of Redline D4 ATF.
After that, it was a downward spiral until you drained it out and put in Penzoil Dexron III.
Next, when you got your replacement trans, you opened up the T-56 that had run the Redline D4 ATF in it and confirmed the blocker rings were destroyed.
I'm not trying to nitpick, I just want to know everything about your experience so as to be precise.
Your experience doesn't mimick that of other users of Redline D4, however it does of the users of GM Synchromesh.
I'm begining to think that it's not really the fluid you use (up to a point), it's just each T-56 in general is different. Some like a lighter fluid (especially in the winter), others like a heavier fluid, others are not shifting right so someone drains the fluid and replaces it with a fluid that either fixes the problem or exacerbates it and then claim that the fluid is great or is crap.
I'm really begining to think there is no "one" answer to the question I've asked.
Which is OK, as long as it's a plausible conclusion.
I thank everyone for their interest...I think this thread is probably the best I've seen so far on getting to the bottom of this issue.
Thanks agian!
Chuck
02-18-2004, 01:41 PM
#25
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Ahh, I must be mistaken on the factory fill -- thought it was GM synchromesh, but I guess its regular ol' DexIII ... Anyway, this is my '98... Factory fill up to 60k, the transmission shifted like a dream - WOT powershifts always went in without a hiccup. Swapped in a 2001 Z06 clutch, and filled with D4 at the same time. Clutch shifted just like the stocker did, WOT powershifts were great -- for a while. This started the down-hill trend, slower shifting, notchiness, etc. At 75k I drained it and filled with Pennsoil. At 79k the transmission was swapped for a fresh rebuilt unit, Spec Stg 4, McCleod piece of **** master cylinder, and a new slave. My original T56 is still sitting on the garage floor, so I have not visually validated the failure -- so I'm not sure if its delaminated, cracked, flaked, etc. FWIW when I drained the D4 there was no trash in the fluid.
Bugs, you want to rebuild my unit? I can get it to Austin somehow...
Bugs, you want to rebuild my unit? I can get it to Austin somehow...
02-18-2004, 01:58 PM
#26
Sure Brian
Bring it on up
Since you have a tranny in your car we can pull the old one apart and Make sure what it needs and order afterwards
But You might as well get the Basic rebuild kit to start, I know it will need At least that.
Bring it on up
Since you have a tranny in your car we can pull the old one apart and Make sure what it needs and order afterwards
But You might as well get the Basic rebuild kit to start, I know it will need At least that.
Originally Posted by Brains
Ahh, I must be mistaken on the factory fill -- thought it was GM synchromesh, but I guess its regular ol' DexIII ... Anyway, this is my '98... Factory fill up to 60k, the transmission shifted like a dream - WOT powershifts always went in without a hiccup. Swapped in a 2001 Z06 clutch, and filled with D4 at the same time. Clutch shifted just like the stocker did, WOT powershifts were great -- for a while. This started the down-hill trend, slower shifting, notchiness, etc. At 75k I drained it and filled with Pennsoil. At 79k the transmission was swapped for a fresh rebuilt unit, Spec Stg 4, McCleod piece of **** master cylinder, and a new slave. My original T56 is still sitting on the garage floor, so I have not visually validated the failure -- so I'm not sure if its delaminated, cracked, flaked, etc. FWIW when I drained the D4 there was no trash in the fluid.
Bugs, you want to rebuild my unit? I can get it to Austin somehow...
Bugs, you want to rebuild my unit? I can get it to Austin somehow...
02-19-2004, 12:58 PM
#27
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Bugsquawsher- Not at all! I appreciate yours and everyone else's participation in this thread! I wasn't even sure what a C5 was, let alone what engine it had in it.
Brains- Thanks for clarifying the process!
Just to be the devil's advocate, how do you know it wasn't the Z06 clutch or something else?
I know you assume the fluid, but why?
When you do have the trans fixed, can you have them inspect the blocker rings (all of them) and determine if anything beyond normal wear has taken place?
Thanks for the continued support of this thread!
Chuck
Brains- Thanks for clarifying the process!
Just to be the devil's advocate, how do you know it wasn't the Z06 clutch or something else?
I know you assume the fluid, but why?
When you do have the trans fixed, can you have them inspect the blocker rings (all of them) and determine if anything beyond normal wear has taken place?
Thanks for the continued support of this thread!
Chuck
02-19-2004, 01:37 PM
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Yeah no kidding, what are you trying to figure out?
I can tell you already what the inside of this trans will likely look like.. The blockers' friction material will "look" relatively fine, but be pretty well glazed over. You'll see the teeth on the leading edge of the 5th gear slider and the blocker pretty well banged up
3rd and 4th won't be AS bad, but they'll need to be cleaned up a bit. 2nd gear should be fine. The 5/6 shift fork, if its not cracked, is likely pretty well hammered. The fork pads are likely pretty chewed up.
The reason I *****KNOW***** it wasn't the clutch is because a dragging clutch disc has a completely different feel.. Not to mention the fact the clutch released well off the floor
The fluid isn't the DIRECT cause -- but it sets the stage for damage. A slippery fluid will take more mechanical pressure for the frictions to drag. Well, common sense tells you we NEED that friction for the synchronizers to work properly. Given enough time to complete the shifts (ie. NOT doing WOT powershifts) the trans would likely still be rolling happily today. HOWEVER, I don't drive like that So, a cheaper fluid with fewer anti-foaming agents, detergents, etc. that we don't need in a manual trans application will work better.
I can tell you already what the inside of this trans will likely look like.. The blockers' friction material will "look" relatively fine, but be pretty well glazed over. You'll see the teeth on the leading edge of the 5th gear slider and the blocker pretty well banged up
3rd and 4th won't be AS bad, but they'll need to be cleaned up a bit. 2nd gear should be fine. The 5/6 shift fork, if its not cracked, is likely pretty well hammered. The fork pads are likely pretty chewed up.The reason I *****KNOW***** it wasn't the clutch is because a dragging clutch disc has a completely different feel.. Not to mention the fact the clutch released well off the floor
The fluid isn't the DIRECT cause -- but it sets the stage for damage. A slippery fluid will take more mechanical pressure for the frictions to drag. Well, common sense tells you we NEED that friction for the synchronizers to work properly. Given enough time to complete the shifts (ie. NOT doing WOT powershifts) the trans would likely still be rolling happily today. HOWEVER, I don't drive like that
So, a cheaper fluid with fewer anti-foaming agents, detergents, etc. that we don't need in a manual trans application will work better.
02-19-2004, 11:11 PM
#30
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Bugsquawsher and Brains- 
That's the $,$$$,$$$ question!
Here's the problem as I see it:
Someone changes the fluid in their F-body's T-56, they use synthetic/Synchromesh.
They have one of 3 results: good, none (neither good or bad), or bad.
If good, then synthetic "works great" for them...
If none, then synthetic made no difference, don't waste your money...
If bad, then synthetic did bad things to their T-56...
There is just no one answer.
The argument most make against the synthetics in the 98-00 T-56's is that it will ruin the paper blocker rings (aka "dude, it's bad for the synchros").
Yet before I started these two threads (this one and the one at LS1.com), there was only 1 allegation of synthetic ruining someone's blocker rings in their T-56 (that is searching both forums using the search string "Redline OR Synchromesh OR Dexron OR Dextron", try it and you'll see how many threads I've looked through)...and after he posted the pictures of them, someone (was not me by the way) posted back and said it looked like normal wear, not synthetic damage.
That leaves this great number of people claiming with near religious conviction that synthetic is bad for the T-56....yet not one piece of evidence...and an equal number of people using synthetics/Synchromesh and claiming good results, and a fair number trying synthetic and seeing marginal to no results.
I started this thread so the nay sayers of using synthetics - remember, almost all who do refer to it being bad for the paper blocker rings or "it being bad/is bad for the synchros" - to post their actual (visual) confirmation that the blocker rings had failed after using synthetic:
So far (combined results from both threads):
1 at LS1.com from denton needham using Royal Purple High-Temp ATF has all his blockers fail except 4th and 6th, although he has 1-4 being pretty worn after tearing down for a 2nd rebuild after the 1st rebuild - all while running Dexron III, so do we attribute the failed blockers replaced during the 1st rebuild to fluid, installation, something else (maybe specific to his trans, driving style)?...
1 here from Brains using Redline D4 ATF, although he also put in a 2001 Z06 clutch at the same time, and shifts at WOT throttle.
And that's it.
2 responses out of all the people running synthetic in their T-56...something is not adding up with the synthetic is bad for your T-56 myth/Urban Legend.
I eagerly await the teardown of Brains T-56, pictures of the blocker rings would be great, that way we could see what they all looked like.
Do WOT runs with regular Dexron III cause glaze?
This dialouge is great! The more info the better!
Thanks again!
Chuck
That's the $,$$$,$$$ question!Here's the problem as I see it:
Someone changes the fluid in their F-body's T-56, they use synthetic/Synchromesh.
They have one of 3 results: good, none (neither good or bad), or bad.
If good, then synthetic "works great" for them...
If none, then synthetic made no difference, don't waste your money...
If bad, then synthetic did bad things to their T-56...
There is just no one answer.
The argument most make against the synthetics in the 98-00 T-56's is that it will ruin the paper blocker rings (aka "dude, it's bad for the synchros").
Yet before I started these two threads (this one and the one at LS1.com), there was only 1 allegation of synthetic ruining someone's blocker rings in their T-56 (that is searching both forums using the search string "Redline OR Synchromesh OR Dexron OR Dextron", try it and you'll see how many threads I've looked through)...and after he posted the pictures of them, someone (was not me by the way) posted back and said it looked like normal wear, not synthetic damage.
That leaves this great number of people claiming with near religious conviction that synthetic is bad for the T-56....yet not one piece of evidence...and an equal number of people using synthetics/Synchromesh and claiming good results, and a fair number trying synthetic and seeing marginal to no results.
I started this thread so the nay sayers of using synthetics - remember, almost all who do refer to it being bad for the paper blocker rings or "it being bad/is bad for the synchros" - to post their actual (visual) confirmation that the blocker rings had failed after using synthetic:
So far (combined results from both threads):
1 at LS1.com from denton needham using Royal Purple High-Temp ATF has all his blockers fail except 4th and 6th, although he has 1-4 being pretty worn after tearing down for a 2nd rebuild after the 1st rebuild - all while running Dexron III, so do we attribute the failed blockers replaced during the 1st rebuild to fluid, installation, something else (maybe specific to his trans, driving style)?...
1 here from Brains using Redline D4 ATF, although he also put in a 2001 Z06 clutch at the same time, and shifts at WOT throttle.
And that's it.
2 responses out of all the people running synthetic in their T-56...something is not adding up with the synthetic is bad for your T-56 myth/Urban Legend.
I eagerly await the teardown of Brains T-56, pictures of the blocker rings would be great, that way we could see what they all looked like.
Do WOT runs with regular Dexron III cause glaze?
This dialouge is great! The more info the better!
Thanks again!
Chuck
02-20-2004, 07:55 AM
#31
Well
I guess the only input I have for you is .
Out of the dozen or so trannies I have done now, I have not seen any blocker rings that were missing the Friction material.
They weren't as Grippy as they should be but the material was still there.
I cannot say with any assurance what they were running as far as tranny fluid.
But alot of the guys here in Austin run some sort of Synthetic.
The thing I have noticed about the Synthetic vs Dinosaur Oil debates Is it always gets some people really riled up.
Some love it, some hate it. Mostly for the price.
In the engine for example.
If you change your oil every 3000 miles, synthetic is a waste of money. Synthetic doesn't break down as fast as Dino oil, But Dino oil will easily last 3000 miles.
So unless you plan on running your oil longer, whats the use in spending the extra money,
But this is My opinion.
Tom
I guess the only input I have for you is .
Out of the dozen or so trannies I have done now, I have not seen any blocker rings that were missing the Friction material.
They weren't as Grippy as they should be but the material was still there.
I cannot say with any assurance what they were running as far as tranny fluid.
But alot of the guys here in Austin run some sort of Synthetic.
The thing I have noticed about the Synthetic vs Dinosaur Oil debates Is it always gets some people really riled up.
Some love it, some hate it. Mostly for the price.
In the engine for example.
If you change your oil every 3000 miles, synthetic is a waste of money. Synthetic doesn't break down as fast as Dino oil, But Dino oil will easily last 3000 miles.
So unless you plan on running your oil longer, whats the use in spending the extra money,
But this is My opinion.
Tom
02-20-2004, 01:10 PM
#32
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Bugsquawsher- Thanks for the reply!
I appreciate you, and everyone else, taking the time and effort to participate in this thread (and/or the one over at LS1.com)!
I'm sorry if I've given the impression of getting riled up or mad, I certainly have not been.
I only seek to get to the bottom of this, because it has been going on so long it really has reached the state of Urban Legend.
The price thing to me really isn't a factor. Even if it cost $60 for 4 quarts of some far out synthetic fluid, it's probably $20 for the regular Dexron III. If $40 breaks someone driving one of these things (and this is over say 30,000-50,000 miles, then they should have bought an Accord.
Really it's either about better shift quality, performance, or longevity...or a mixture of all three.
OFF TOPIC:
I'll agree with you on the synthetic in the engine point, providing someone isn't autocrossing or dragracing, 3,000 miles on dino (especially the current SL's) is a no brainer (providing there isn't something mechanically wrong - like a coolant leak for example).
I'm guilty of changing out the Mobil-1 5W-30 in my truck after 3,000 miles...but I did an UOA on it and will again. Once I've get a clear idea how much wear I can expect out of the oil when running 3,000, I'll bump the interval up to 5,000 and then beyond.
Thanks again for your comments, without them it'd just be some wacko posting.
Chuck
I appreciate you, and everyone else, taking the time and effort to participate in this thread (and/or the one over at LS1.com)!
I'm sorry if I've given the impression of getting riled up or mad, I certainly have not been.
I only seek to get to the bottom of this, because it has been going on so long it really has reached the state of Urban Legend.
The price thing to me really isn't a factor. Even if it cost $60 for 4 quarts of some far out synthetic fluid, it's probably $20 for the regular Dexron III. If $40 breaks someone driving one of these things (and this is over say 30,000-50,000 miles, then they should have bought an Accord.
Really it's either about better shift quality, performance, or longevity...or a mixture of all three.
OFF TOPIC:
I'll agree with you on the synthetic in the engine point, providing someone isn't autocrossing or dragracing, 3,000 miles on dino (especially the current SL's) is a no brainer (providing there isn't something mechanically wrong - like a coolant leak for example).
I'm guilty of changing out the Mobil-1 5W-30 in my truck after 3,000 miles...but I did an UOA on it and will again. Once I've get a clear idea how much wear I can expect out of the oil when running 3,000, I'll bump the interval up to 5,000 and then beyond.
Thanks again for your comments, without them it'd just be some wacko posting.
Chuck
04-22-2004, 01:51 PM
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I've run the Mobil 1 for 20,000mi., since the car had 5,000 on it. I have had no problems, and I drive very spiritedly. I have a 00 w/ the T-56. I honestly don't understand how it would be possible for the synthetic to hurt the blocker rings, considering that Dex III, Syncromesh, and Mobil 1 are all petrolium based, regardless of being synthetic or not.
04-22-2004, 10:33 PM
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superchargedls1- Thanks for the data, it's much appreciated!
The argument being made against the synthetics in the 98-00 T-56's is that it affects the blocker rings somehow, by either attacking them or causing them to not perform properly, thereby causing synchro damage.
Obviously, posts like yours begin to disprove those claims...
Thanks again for the feedback, it's appreciated!
Chuck
The argument being made against the synthetics in the 98-00 T-56's is that it affects the blocker rings somehow, by either attacking them or causing them to not perform properly, thereby causing synchro damage.
Obviously, posts like yours begin to disprove those claims...
Thanks again for the feedback, it's appreciated!
Chuck
10-23-2004, 03:52 PM
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screamn03- There have been a few more posting over in a like thread at LS1.com...it's located here: m6 tranny fluid?.
I have no idea even which transmission is in an '03 Cobra, so I can't really comment one way or the other on if that's a reasonably safe - backed by user feedback at least - move.
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Chuck
I have no idea even which transmission is in an '03 Cobra, so I can't really comment one way or the other on if that's a reasonably safe - backed by user feedback at least - move.
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Chuck
10-23-2004, 05:41 PM
#37
Originally Posted by chucky2
screamn03- There have been a few more posting over in a like thread at LS1.com...it's located here: m6 tranny fluid?.
I have no idea even which transmission is in an '03 Cobra, so I can't really comment one way or the other on if that's a reasonably safe - backed by user feedback at least - move.
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Chuck
I have no idea even which transmission is in an '03 Cobra, so I can't really comment one way or the other on if that's a reasonably safe - backed by user feedback at least - move.
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Chuck
10-24-2004, 01:57 AM
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I have no idea even which transmission is in an '03 Cobra, so I can't really comment one way or the other on if that's a reasonably safe - backed by user feedback at least - move.
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Did you find others using Synchromesh in '03 Cobra tranny's?
Other people are using it in theirs also. One guy recommended Royal Purple Syncromax. I might try this after running the GM stuff for a while.
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/scmax.html
I have a thread going on about it here:
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=17577
10-24-2004, 10:51 PM
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jmd- 
? I only looked at F-body T-56 posts...nothing else...
Just for kicks, what type of blocker rings did Aston Martin use? I'm betting CF, but am still curious...
screamn03- Ahhh, OK, then that's making more sense then...
The argument made against the 98-00 F-body T-56's is that they have paper-lined blocker rings (and not the CF ones found on 01 and 02 F-body's with the T-56) and running anything else than dino Dextron III will cause them to fail.
The fact that many 98-00 F-body owners with T-56's reporting positive results seems to not stop people from posting that it is still bad...
I think if the Cobra T-56's have CR blocker-rings, then it should be all good, as I don't think anyone has claimed that the CF blocker-rings reacted badly to synthetics...
Glad to hear the Synchromesh worked for your!
Intersting though on the GM part # that you used...I thought the GM Synchromesh was 12345349?
Chuck
? I only looked at F-body T-56 posts...nothing else...Just for kicks, what type of blocker rings did Aston Martin use? I'm betting CF, but am still curious...
screamn03- Ahhh, OK, then that's making more sense then...
The argument made against the 98-00 F-body T-56's is that they have paper-lined blocker rings (and not the CF ones found on 01 and 02 F-body's with the T-56) and running anything else than dino Dextron III will cause them to fail.
The fact that many 98-00 F-body owners with T-56's reporting positive results seems to not stop people from posting that it is still bad...
I think if the Cobra T-56's have CR blocker-rings, then it should be all good, as I don't think anyone has claimed that the CF blocker-rings reacted badly to synthetics...
Glad to hear the Synchromesh worked for your!
Intersting though on the GM part # that you used...I thought the GM Synchromesh was 12345349?
Chuck
10-25-2004, 01:10 AM
#40
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Hayward, CA
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Intersting though on the GM part # that you used...I thought the GM Synchromesh was 12345349?