chucky2

screamn03- Thanks for that info! Now that you mention it, I do remember someone over on BITOG tracking down the different Synchomesh's...can't remember though if this was one of them or not...

Chuck

screamn03

Update:
After about 1K miles running the synromesh in my Cobra I added 2oz of Motorcraft XL-7 friction modifier and it improved shift quality alot. I'd recommend doing this if you do try and run syncomesh. So far I only have about 2-3K miles on the syncromesh and it's working great, although the trans can be a little notchy when cold but easily driven around.

My friend got a '94GT a couple of months ago and it has a T56 in it also. He's been running Royal Purple Syncromax in it with no problems. I've personally driving the car many times and can vouch that that car shift great.

-Mike-

chucky2

screamn03]- Man, almost forgot about this thread!

Thanks for posting back with the data, I'm sure it'll help someone down the road make a decision either way...

Just curious, why the additional add of a Friction Modifier...since the Synchromesh you used already had it in there? Did you just decide to try it, or was there a specific reason you tried it?

Thanks again for posting your results!

Chuck

screamn03

Sometime when shifting to second the trans wouldn't shift right (basically it wouldn't syncronize all the way and I could feel a little clash going into second) and I remember people posting on Modularfords that they also had used the motorcraft friction modifier # XL-3 . So I decided to try it and ended up getting XL-7 which just looked like more expensive crap. When I used the XL-7 it helped out alot so that's why I recommend running that also.

I guess the specific reason I tried it was to eliminate sloppy feeling shifts (that only occured sometimes) which it did. Like I said the trans is a little cold blooded but so is the motor so I guess they like each other now...lol.

-Mike-

chucky2

screamn03- That's interesting...I wonder since you had the Friction Modified Synchromesh already, if you needed to add something to either add to or counteract it for the shifting.....most people just use the straing 1234549 and are good to go....

Glad you got it all worked out though! And, thanks for posting back with the info!!!

Chuck

screamn03

I tell you what, I'm going to be trying another shifter on the car soon so I'll drain and refill with the regular stuff and give that a try also.

screamn03

So, I did this back in May and remembered this thread today for some reason or another.

I've been running on the regular syncromesh and 2oz of XL-3 for 7K miles now (car is coming up on 24K) and it's the best it has shifted so far, seems like it's getting better with age. The improvement didn't come from the shifter, I could hammer gears just as well as before with the Tri-Ax as I can now with the Pro50, it's just now it's consistant and the trans also shifts better when driving around normal, hot and cold. Either way I have over 12K with a fluid other than ATF with no problems, no noises, no vibrations, nothin......so.....basically my trans isn't falling apart.

Now, in the perfect world when I have the money:
http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-56.asp
...we'll see how the ol' IRS like that!

-Mike-

chucky2

screamn03- Thanks for replying back! Glad to hear the Synchromesh + friction modifier is working out for you.

It would be cool to know how it losts long term, say in a 2-3 years and many x0,000's of miles....but I doubt this thread will be going that long...

Thanks again for the feedback!

Chuck

Mr_president

iTrader: (38)

soo has anyone tried the XL-3 im thinking about getting some im have a problem with 2nd gear poping out

screamn03

That's not going to help you with that problem, the sliders that engage the gear sound like they are crewed up causing it not to stay in gear. I have some parts laying around and could take a picture when I get the chance to show you what I'm talking about. But the short answer is, a fluid change or additive isn't going to fix that.

SUTTERERMAN85

iTrader: (42)

what he said^^^

dailydriver

Does anyone know what the differences are between the FoMoCo XL-7 & XL-3 friction modifiers (or between those and GM's)?? Also, is the Pennzoil Synchromesh what is actually in the bottles marked GM Synchromesh???

rgaynor85

what type of trans determines what year trans u have, i know the f-bodys used borg-warner and tremec t-56's, what years used which, i have a tremec trans in my 01 but i have heard some 01's came with 00 tranny's. plz lemme know how to tell so i know ifi have CF blockers

screamn03

Update: After running the GM Synchromesh for 40K+ miles I switched to Royal Purple Synchromax yesterday, and IMO it's a better fluid for these transmissions. It shifts smoother (especially when cold) and I can see a noticable improvement on speedshifts/powershifts.

SladeX

I've got a 98, Mobil 1 in it for the last 15k miles, 30 track runs and about 1.5 years. At the start of this season around late March/April I will change over to Amsoil synthetic.

as long as it's warmed up I can speed shift it all day with no problems and probably do get a few spirited WOT shifts in at least once everytime I do take it out.

chucky2

screamn03- Wow man, thanks for taking the time to update this thread with your experience! Would be great if you'll be able to provide your long term feedback on the RP stuff too, just for comparisons sake.

SladeX- You've got a 98, that's been running with Mobil-1 (a true synthetic) for 15k? With no problems??? This is simply impossible, everyone knows that your blocker rings have ceased to exist...your imagining no problems...

Chuck

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

So far out ot the 100 or so Trannies I have rebuild since this post started, I have recommended Mobile 1 to everyone I did a rebuild for.
I have yet to have a tranny come back, as a matter of fact they all say that after I did my thing and they put this stuff in , it shifts better than it ever has.
I could start a post in my local forum and see what kind of milages we have on the stuff.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

I recently rebuilt my T56 and didn't see any abnormal wear on the blocker ring material. I had the original fluid in the tranny changed out at ~42K miles and put in Mobil 1 synthetic for ~10K miles. Then drained that and have used Castrol Dextron III dino oil for the past ~18K miles. I also used this oil after I rebuilt my tranny 500 miles ago. I can take pics of the blocker ring material in a few days if you'd like.

SladeX

Gotta love those wild internet "facts"...

we should get one started on how if you use synthetic in the rear, some random bearing will fail causing it to grenade, instead of the generally accepted 10-bolts are weak.

what I don't understand about most people is that dexron III is a standard. It means it should have a viscosity in x range, detergents in x range, handle temps in x range etc...

This means that as long as it has been certified as a Dexron III type oil, whether it's origin is synthetic or not, it should afford the same level of performance or exceed that standard provided that no "special" additions have been added that is out of spec which could possibly harm components.

If anyone has had a transmission go from playing around with different fluids, it's more than likely the change in fluid simply revealed an existing problem that was masked by some sludge not dissolved by the previous fill.

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

Its funny that you mention this.
My boss drives a late model Tundra.
He took it to one of those Quicky lubes to get the rear end fluid changed.
They told him that he should run synthetic in it.
2 weeks later he rear end Cratored.
Took it to Toyota and they said that they would not warrenty it because he put synthetic in it.
So he threatened to sue the quicky lube place and they paid for him a new Rear end.
I think that some limited slip additive probably would have taken care of this if it was put in at the oil change.