Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

spec stage 2 or ls7????

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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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Default spec stage 2 or ls7????

hey guys my clutch is on its way out soon and im wondering which clutch to go with... ive heard good things bout ls7 and ive heard spec can sometimes have chatter.... my car is pretty much stock i have a cat back cold air and MAF but im pretty sure ill be adding power adders once the car is paid off which is prob in the next year so i need to get something that has daily driver drivability but also can handle some power... and im completely dumb bout what to order for the clutch replacement what all do i need... car has 92000 on it right now
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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Depends upon your driving style and power goals... but if you're staying under 500rwhp I'd suggest the following:

LS7 clutch & plate (PN 24238412) $260
Fidanza 13lb LS2 Flywheel (PN 198571) $320
Tick Adjustable Master cylinder $340
Tick remote bleeder $50
GM Slave cylinder (PN 15046288) $136
GM Throwout bearing (PN 14061685) $12

If you're a drag racer, stick with a billet or steel flywheel (and the weight penalty). Prices are the lowest I was able to find advertised, sponsor or not, excluding GM Parts Direct and Ebay.

Last edited by JimMueller; Aug 9, 2010 at 01:59 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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A Stage 2+ and a steel flywheel would be great for street use, even with bolt-ons being added in the future. Feel free to give me a call at your conveneicne to discuss this and other options if you like. Thanks!
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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I've got an LS7 Fidanza 13lb aluminum flywheel for sale! Its in great shape and has a fairly new friction surface but was broke in on a spec stage 3. A new surface from summit is around $50. I'd let it go for $200 shipped.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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wow thats a lil out of my price range idk if ill be able to spend that much cause the car is going to the dealership since i have a extended warranty cause atm something inside of the trans is making a high pitch squeal when i push the clutch in but quiets up when i pull clutch out so im having them see if its something they can fix and the guy there told me if they need to open up trans for them to put in new clutch n e ways since they will have trans open more than likely cause it will save me a bunch on labor... so im trying to not spend more than 500 for everything i need in the clutch department.... i prob wont get close to 500hp range for a while cause im always broke lol... n e suggestions what package i should look at for my price range?
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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If <$500 is your goal and you don't plan to go crazy with output then you could get a Stage 1 clutch (which is rated to 599lb.-ft at the crank) and one of our steel flywheels.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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I can say that I've had the best drivability and longevity with the Tick Master, GM slave and the LS7 clutch kit. I first tried a McLeod, then a LS6, then a Spec 2, then a Spec 3, then a RAM, then the LS7. They've all used the then-current slave and the then-current GM master or the McLeod adjusable master. If you have an extended warranty, I'd let them choose the parts they'll pay for and just add whatever isn't included. Mixing and matching factory with aftermarket has been a mess for me until I got to the current setup.

If $500 is your budget, then I'd suggest getting this kit from Scoggin. Regardless of which clutch kit you choose, it's highly recommended to install a new slave cylinder only because you don't want to pay to pull the tranny again if something is amiss with your current slave. Throwout bearing may be required upon inspection. Master cylinder is pre-bled and won't require dropping the tranny in the future if it needs to be replaced.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...center/sdls7ck
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
If <$500 is your goal and you don't plan to go crazy with output then you could get a Stage 1 clutch (which is rated to 599lb.-ft at the crank) and one of our steel flywheels.
Id Really love to see how many people with anywhere close to 599lb.-ft at the crank are rolling around with a spec 1 clutch.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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big guy if you do something do right the 1st time it may be a lil more $$$$ but its worth it in the long run go with a MONSTER i went with a level 6 on my DD and i didnt think twice about it like i says do it right the 1st time and save ur self the heart burn
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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and as for spec and center force they should just quit they just suck
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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Had a brand new spec 2 in my car when I bought it. Just a short review.

Mods: 5.3 Heads, Custom cam, 4.10 gears, supporting mods. Around 420rwhp (500bhp?)

Driveability - Great. Buttery smooth engagement.

Holding power - Good at ~500hp (420rwhp). Granted, never launched over 2k rpms, and the tires always gave before anything (Low profile street tires, and a 10 bolt)

Longevity - Poor. Never really got on the gas hard until about 1000 miles. No hard shifts until about the 5-6000 mark. Very little track use (a track visit a month after about 7000 miles). 20% Highway/79% street/1% strip. Was my DD for the first year and a half. Have had the car for over 2 years now. 13000 miles later, car drives like an automanual (If I mat it, rpms shoot up and car starts slowly accelerating)...

However, it did grip enough to blow the 10bolt lol. Figured I'd run a friend for the hell of it. Dumped it at 3 grand figuring it would slip enough on it's own.... car dead hooked... sheared every tooth off the pinion lol.

Summary : Getting replaced with a Monster 3 or 5.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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in other words THEY BLOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW THEY SHOULD JUST QUITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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What about a monster? I am really happy with mine.

I have a level 4 with there light weigh flywheel have well over 5k on it and it works beautiful. Plenty of 4500rpm launches holds perfect also no problems with long trips. I will def. put another one in after this one goes.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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monster is the best man i have the same set up u do but i have a level 6 and im droping my clutch at 5500 i beat the living hellllll out of mine and im still on the 10bolt running 11.40`s and shes a DD
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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i have the ls7 clutch in my 98 cam only ws6....and i wish i went with a spec 2.5 or 3.5 +..bc the ls7 clutch is not good at all for launching ..from my ex
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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im tired of saying it guys if u want a real clutch go monster and thats that DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dont blow ur back braking money on bull ****
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by firehawk196
im tired of saying it guys if u want a real clutch go monster and thats that DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dont blow ur back braking money on bull ****
this guys is correct on this statement^^^^^^!! i have seen this clutch is cam cars...head/cam cars..head/cam/intake cars....and stock cars..they are badd *** clutch's..
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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I bet spec, centerforce and many of the rest are all great clutches for what they are rated at. I personally have a ls7 and love it but I have friends with other clutches such as spec and ram and they have nothing bad to say about them
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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Firehawk...if you have an issue with one of our parts you are welcome to contact me directly. We have thousands of happy customers that have had great results with our parts. You know what they say about opinions...and you certainly have one...lol!
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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FWIW, i have a spec 2+ with the lightweight upgrade and steel flywheel....5500 miles in and it has been excellent, much better than my ls6.....no chatter whatsoever, even during break in....but i did carefully torque all bolts to specification and BABY it for nearly to 1500 miles before pressing the gas hard
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