Spec 2+ opinions
Spec 2+ opinions I am going to be replacing my clutch over the winter and am strongly considering a spec 2+. I will be using the car mainly for highway rolls and sees the track maybe 3 or 4 times a year.
Last edited by mchdg86; Oct 1, 2010 at 08:35 PM.
I was cam only in my z28and my spec stage 2 had about 5k miles on it and I downshifted to second at about 45mph and the clutch gripped but has been chattering ever since 10k plus miles now never seen the track just spritited driving. My car only made 380hp so I would look at something way more beefier than a 2 or 2plus. If your dead set on a spec get the 3 plus
I was cam only in my z28and my spec stage 2 had about 5k miles on it and I downshifted to second at about 45mph and the clutch gripped but has been chattering ever since 10k plus miles now never seen the track just spritited driving. My car only made 380hp so I would look at something way more beefier than a 2 or 2plus. If your dead set on a spec get the 3 plus
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo ******, The pictures posted evidence a clutch that was never fully seated and that over-heated as a result of what was likely agressive use before the surfaces had mated. This is evidenced by the wear pattern. Additionally, that isn't glazing...it is full on melting of the material relative to heat and subsequent sticking of the material to the friction surface when it was allowed to cool.
Maybe, the usage it saw during break-in was so easy that it couldn't seat fully. Or, perhpas your 12 passes were made consecutively before the clutch was seated and no time was allowed for cool-down in between runs (lol).
Believe it or not I see some kits that haven't seated because folks are too easy on them. I appreciate opinions...but it is worth noting that the clutch didn't do this to itself. You know what I mean! If you need anything else let me know as I would be happy to help you...
Additionally, mch, it all comes down to usage. A Stage 2+ would hold your planned power levels but if you are really agressively slipping the clutch out of the hole or if you have a tendency to ride the pedal on the street a Stage 3+ might be a better option.
Maybe, the usage it saw during break-in was so easy that it couldn't seat fully. Or, perhpas your 12 passes were made consecutively before the clutch was seated and no time was allowed for cool-down in between runs (lol).
Believe it or not I see some kits that haven't seated because folks are too easy on them. I appreciate opinions...but it is worth noting that the clutch didn't do this to itself. You know what I mean! If you need anything else let me know as I would be happy to help you...
Additionally, mch, it all comes down to usage. A Stage 2+ would hold your planned power levels but if you are really agressively slipping the clutch out of the hole or if you have a tendency to ride the pedal on the street a Stage 3+ might be a better option.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
******, The pictures posted evidence a clutch that was never fully seated and that over-heated as a result of what was likely agressive use before the surfaces had mated. This is evidenced by the wear pattern. Additionally, that isn't glazing...it is full on melting of the material relative to heat and subsequent sticking of the material to the friction surface when it was allowed to cool.
Maybe, the usage it saw during break-in was so easy that it couldn't seat fully. Or, perhpas your 12 passes were made consecutively before the clutch was seated and no time was allowed for cool-down in between runs (lol).
.
Maybe, the usage it saw during break-in was so easy that it couldn't seat fully. Or, perhpas your 12 passes were made consecutively before the clutch was seated and no time was allowed for cool-down in between runs (lol).
.
Actually none of the above. The 2+ was on it's 2nd season and was working very well. Did not beat on it during break-in nor was I easy on it. The damage in pics occured 1st pass that particular day. heavy car, 4200+ lbs, MT ET's, 3k launch....well stuff breaks.
My $02 is "kevlar" as a friction material is not ideal for a street/strip car. especially one that see's very little track time as Kevlar will tend to glaze in city driving and can have chatter. That is why I suggested the 3+ which is also a full face disc vs puc type.
not a spec but i have been running a kevlar clutch in an almost all street mustang (t5) and never had any issues with it.... 50k miles + and used it to tow and auto x and drag....
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
I run a full face disc now which I had a local shop make for me out of material no longer offered which is holding very well.
I have a heavy car around the 400 rwhp range which does not help clutch life :-(
ZOOM kevlar/kevlar clutch...died same as SPEC
BTW I am not bashing SPEC. Had + experience with their tech support and they promply replaced my 2+ when I received it damaged in shipping (PP damaged).
