t56 bearing race removal?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
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From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
t56 bearing race removal?
Im rebuilding my first t56 and one of the races inside the main case is rusted a bit from it sitting and Id like to swap them out. I purchased a Kent Moore t56 tool kit cheap off ebay but it doesnt include the tools to remove those two races inside the transmission case (check pics I borrowed from other threads.) Can anyone recommend a safe way to remove and reinstall these without damaging the case?
I know your not supposed to remove them unless damaged and I supposed I could try and polish out the rust...but honestly with the money Im spending on the t56 parts Id rather not have it die down the road on account of $20 in bearing parts. Also, the kent-moore tool seems impossible to find and are expensive at that...almost cheaper to buy a new main case. Surely someone on this board has a low buck way to replace the races?
Thanks!!!!!!!!
I know your not supposed to remove them unless damaged and I supposed I could try and polish out the rust...but honestly with the money Im spending on the t56 parts Id rather not have it die down the road on account of $20 in bearing parts. Also, the kent-moore tool seems impossible to find and are expensive at that...almost cheaper to buy a new main case. Surely someone on this board has a low buck way to replace the races?
Thanks!!!!!!!!
#2
don't know if this is possible for you but what i do at work to pull races out is weld a small quick bead of stainless all the way around the inside of the race. the stainless contracts and the race falls right out. I sure somebody might have a better way but thats how we pull em out of the industrial valves at work. good luck!
#3
With the case upside down on a piece of wood, you can barely get a punch to catch the lip of the race from the top, and slowly/carefully tap it out. It can take 20-30min of tapping around the circumference of the race to get it out, but it works in a pinch..
Only do one race at a time, as I've found the case can sometimes "relax" doing both and lead to cracks or difficulty installing the new race.
Only do one race at a time, as I've found the case can sometimes "relax" doing both and lead to cracks or difficulty installing the new race.
#4
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
Wow, I have a MIG welder and some stainless wire in the garage...but I sure would be nervous about trying that. Thanks for the tip, Ill save that as a possible last resort. Anybody else?
#5
Put the case in the hot sun for awhile, or an oven. Try to get it about 200-225 degrees. Then apply an ice cube or a shot of nitrous directly to the steel bearing race without touching the aluminum case around it. The heat will expand the case diameter for the race, and the cold will contract the steel race. The race should plop right out, or gently tap it out from the other side.
Is that "low buck" enough for ya.
Mike
Is that "low buck" enough for ya.
Mike
#7
With the case upside down on a piece of wood, you can barely get a punch to catch the lip of the race from the top, and slowly/carefully tap it out. It can take 20-30min of tapping around the circumference of the race to get it out, but it works in a pinch..
Only do one race at a time, as I've found the case can sometimes "relax" doing both and lead to cracks or difficulty installing the new race.
Only do one race at a time, as I've found the case can sometimes "relax" doing both and lead to cracks or difficulty installing the new race.
BTW, if you damage the race seat in the bore, no big deal..It can easily be cleaned up with a small dremel tool.