Replace clutch/hydraulics?
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Replace clutch/hydraulics? I'm about to have the LS1 in my 2001 T/A swapped out for an LS6. Was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the clutch and/or hydraulics (and misc. parts) associated with it since the engine will be out of it. Also, anything else trans. related I should consider? I'm not an expert by ANY means in this area so any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
AdaM
Thanks,
AdaM
I'm sure other people will have other opinions, but if you have the money to spare....I can safely say that I was VERY happy to put a new clutch master, slave, and a heavy duty clutch kit in. ESPECIALLY if your setup is still stock. Then again, you may have better equipment compared to my '00 SS. All in all, everything feels like it hooks better and is solid, whereas my stock setup felt like it'd fall apart if I beat on it.. Just my opinion, though.
I got the Monster Level 3 clutch kit with lightweight flywheel and slave, Tick master cylinder (no drill mod needed)
I got the Monster Level 3 clutch kit with lightweight flywheel and slave, Tick master cylinder (no drill mod needed)
Everything I got was on sale, at the time; plus I had my transmission rebuilt by Morris Motorsports, so Derrick cut me even more of a deal, for all of the business. BUT, this is what I got...
Level 3 Premium (700HP Setup) + lightweight flywheel, slave, etc.
http://www.morrismotorsports.net/mon...hes_levels_i-v
Tick ADJUSTABLE Master Cylinder
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...dy/hydraulics/
Part #TAMCKFB
Ultimately, I don't think I paid a price, far from what RedRallyeZ mentioned at Tick, at all.
Level 3 Premium (700HP Setup) + lightweight flywheel, slave, etc.
http://www.morrismotorsports.net/mon...hes_levels_i-v
Tick ADJUSTABLE Master Cylinder
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...dy/hydraulics/
Part #TAMCKFB
Ultimately, I don't think I paid a price, far from what RedRallyeZ mentioned at Tick, at all.
Last edited by GothMetalForever; Nov 4, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
Again, it's only my opinion. But what I was told is that 'anything higher than what I have will begin to lose its streetability'
I think my setup is EXCELLENT on the street. It's SLIGHTLY tough getting into first, but everything else is rock solid and I love it!
SLIGHTLY tough = gotta rev it up a little bit more than normal to smoothly get into first from a dead stop
I have no problem getting a little more attention to my car, though, so I don't see anything wrong with it. :-)
However, I cant vouch for anything higher-HP.
Just remember, if you're going to buy a setup and already spend a ton, make sure you get the one you want, the first time. So, ultimately, you wont keep dumping money into needless upgrades, over and over. Just save up and do some research, in the meantime.
I think my setup is EXCELLENT on the street. It's SLIGHTLY tough getting into first, but everything else is rock solid and I love it!
SLIGHTLY tough = gotta rev it up a little bit more than normal to smoothly get into first from a dead stop
I have no problem getting a little more attention to my car, though, so I don't see anything wrong with it. :-)
However, I cant vouch for anything higher-HP.
Just remember, if you're going to buy a setup and already spend a ton, make sure you get the one you want, the first time. So, ultimately, you wont keep dumping money into needless upgrades, over and over. Just save up and do some research, in the meantime.
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I'm pretty comfortable in thinking I want the stage 2. Can you explain to me the difference in the flywheel, light weight vs non-? Also it looks like those kits have everything (i.e. hydraulic lines, bearings, etc.), but is there anything misc. that I should be looking into?
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Verdad Gallardo As I remember, the kit was complete, it's just a bit of a pain in the *** to replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding was 'almost' unnecessary, too, with the quick-disconnect hose. But I still insist you bleed it.
The difference in flywheels, I honestly don't remember anymore... I dont know that there was much more than a one second difference in how long it took come down from a rev.
I think it was an impulse buy, and really more for someone looking to drop every single pound that they can..
The difference in flywheels, I honestly don't remember anymore... I dont know that there was much more than a one second difference in how long it took come down from a rev.
I think it was an impulse buy, and really more for someone looking to drop every single pound that they can..
Currently the Diamond Stage 1 complete w/ flywheel & Slave cylinder is $719 shipped, and the Stage 2 is $759 shipped.
Also, the Tick Master is only $299 from tick performance.
www.diamondclutch.com
Or, if you are trying to save money, then you can re-use your stock flywheel. You'll have to get it resurfaced, which runs $35-45 at most places. If you choose this route, then the Diamond Stage 1 kit minus the flywheel is $449 and still includes the slave. The Stage 2 is $489 w/out the flywheel.
I would recommend a Diamond Stage 2 complete kit at the most. It is a 12in dual friction disc, and will hold 600hp and still drive close to stock. Even the Stage 1 is much stronger than stock and will hold 500hp and drives just like stock.
I would also recommend a lightweight flywheel. We have a 15lb chromoly flywheel. The entire Stage 1 or Stage 2 Diamond Clutch setup w/ flywheel weighs in at 43lbs. Your stock setup with flywheel is 49lbs. So, the lightweight flywheel reduces your entire rotating mass by 12%. This is enough to increase the engine's efficiency for faster revs, and slightly less drivetrain power loss.
Thanks
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Can some describe in their best words, what the difference in FEELING is between the stock clutch and a stage 2 (monster, diamond, or other) in respect to engagement of clutch pedal, shifting, etc. I don't want to feel like I'm working out on the way to work and back in rush hour traffic is all.
Definitely a little tougher (newer). Not bad though. I drove a viper with a HORRIBLY tough clutch and I hated it. Level 3 feels great, so I'm sure 2 would too. And as far as engagment, it's almost anywhere you want if you get an adjustable MC. I'd say mine's set to engage about 30% off of the floor? But I haven't driven it in three weeks.. So I can't say for sure :-(
And at this point, no matter where you get it. Do NOT get it from Derrick at Morris Motorsports. They've been dicking me around for three weeks now on a warranty on my transmission, that broke down.
And at this point, no matter where you get it. Do NOT get it from Derrick at Morris Motorsports. They've been dicking me around for three weeks now on a warranty on my transmission, that broke down.
Shifting is great, too. I was very happy with the level 3 setup with Tick MC. Everything feels so much better with the new equipment. Plus I had the 2000 hydraulics, so the stock setup didn't usually do what I wanted to, when beating on it. The new setup never skipped a beat, never slipped, never embarrassed me!
The Monster Level 2 has a very slightly heavier pedal than stock, you won't even notice it after a couple of days. The disc uses a kevlar friction material that allows it to engine as smooth as a stock clutch.
Can some describe in their best words, what the difference in FEELING is between the stock clutch and a stage 2 (monster, diamond, or other) in respect to engagement of clutch pedal, shifting, etc. I don't want to feel like I'm working out on the way to work and back in rush hour traffic is all.
I would be happy to work with you on setting up a kit to fit your needs. You can give me a shout if you like to discuss this futher or just let me know what you planned torque output will be and we can proceed as needed. Our kits offer pedal effort within 10% of the stock unit and great drivability. Thanks,
Carbon Kevlar has a lower coefficient than pure Kevlar, we went away from the dual friction discs almost a year ago.