japsw20

Since the first day I bought the car it would have the famous clutch pedal on the floor at WOT, I bled it and it somewhat got rid of the problem. Now for the past week it came back and would come and go even shifting under 3k RPMs, the car also has had alot of clutch chattering at idle that would go away if you pressed the clutch a few times. Today I decided to replace the master and do the drill mod while I was in there, put everything back together and no pressure on the pedal AT ALL, Bled 2 bottles of fluid through it with no luck, took the master off and exchanged it for a new one and it does the same thing, no pressure at all compared to some before with the old master. do you guys think the slave is the culprit??

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you didnt bench bleed the master! I would bet that the old one is fine. Before you bled 2 bottles thru it was the slave leaking at all? Have you ever replaced the slave before? Stick both hoses of the master in a jar of brake fluid while holding the master cylinder with the rod at your chest. the steel line has a quick disconnect on it so you need to use something like a bolt to hold it open while it is in the fluid. Once you situate all of this pump the master in and out until no air comes out takes like 20-30 secs. The install and hook up to the slave. Open up the slave and let it gravity bleed. Top off the reservoir 3-4 times before letting the fluid drop all the way to the bottom. Close the slave bleeder. Ensure its full of fluid. Try and drive the car. If there is still problems then the slave is the culprit.

japsw20

Yes I did bench bleed the master before installing, gravity bled it and bled it the traditional way like brakes. The master I pulled off was the original plastic one with 144k miles on it, unknown mileage on slave and clutch, would the slave leak if it were bad? I had no leakage anywhere

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

When you say no pressure at all, you do pull up the pedal and press it down several more times... right?

Its not uncommon to have the pedal stick to the floor when you first start bleeding it. Once the systems is closed you may have to lift the pedal several times to get it to stay up and come back. Then conitune pressing the clutch until it gets firm. If it never gets firm, you have to have a leak... or your conitunally letting air into the system while bleeding it.

I know its elementary... but its a little more difficult then brakes. SLOWLY pressing the clutch, open the valve, let a small amount of fluid / air out, and close it before the clutch is at the bottom.

If the pedal is at the bottom before you are closing it, its likely that the pedal will not return, as once the pressure is off (the pedal hits the bottom) if you havent closed it, air is getting into the system. Inbetween bleeding you should be pressing the clutch several dozen times.

Hope this helps.
Mack

SS#2906

iTrader: (53)

Bench Bleed.......

japsw20

Yea I would pull the pedal up an pump it a dozen times. If the slave where bad would it leak? Also the master I bought is from advance should I try a new gm unit?

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

I think you will be fine with parts store master. I would replace the slave!

japsw20

well pulled the tranny out, clutch was toast and flywheel is full of burns, is there any way to tell if the slave was bad? Im going to replace it anyways

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I would do that anyways while you're in there, even if it's not leaking especially if it's the original

japsw20

Just to update, ripped trans out replaced clutch/flywheel with ls7 unit, replaced slave, bench bleed the new master from Advance auto parts and still no pressure. After close inspection,measuring and comparing the old master the aftermarket master cylinder WILL NOT PROPERLY SEAL WITH ORIGINAL LINE causing air to be sucked back. Purchased complete master assembly from GM and the car is 100%.

I will never purchase anything aside from oils and basic stuff from any local parts store.