Faceplated Trans
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Adelaide, Australia
Faceplated Trans Hi guys I have done a few searches and read a fair bit of info about the faceplated T56's. I was just wondering what sort of life span people are getting out of these boxes both street driven and racing? I am looking at one of these boxes and the car wont be street driven every day only really on weekends. The main problem I have I guess is that the nearest track to me is 400km's away (1/8th) and the nearest 1/4 is 800km's away.
How much power will these boxes hold? The 2nd build on my car is under way now and should make around 650rwhp on the spray and the car will weigh in around 1800kg with me in it. The car will still be a street car but more of a weekend toy/race car. I really want too get this car into the 9 sec zone before I start to strip and cage it and convert it into a race car. So far the fastest m6 street car over here is a 9.93 and I wanna beat that, so far on my 2nd time to the 1/4 I reeled of a 10.4 with the old setup making around 540rwhp.
How much power will these boxes hold? The 2nd build on my car is under way now and should make around 650rwhp on the spray and the car will weigh in around 1800kg with me in it. The car will still be a street car but more of a weekend toy/race car. I really want too get this car into the 9 sec zone before I start to strip and cage it and convert it into a race car. So far the fastest m6 street car over here is a 9.93 and I wanna beat that, so far on my 2nd time to the 1/4 I reeled of a 10.4 with the old setup making around 540rwhp.
If its a T56 5th and 6th are still syncroed so travel is fine. I have seen a 2-3 tenths gain from faceplate. Faceplating wears very little if driven properly, a pro shifted trans will wear and need maintenance much quicker. As far as a mileage number I cant say.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Adelaide, Australia
Yeah its a T56 and I am aware of 5th and 6th still having syncros. Would you be able to go from 5th or 6th down to 4th for overtaking? Also can you put it straight in 3rd from neutral to do burnouts before staging or do you have start in 1st and shift up?
When downshifting you do not want to skip gears, go 4 3 2 1. Downshifting is a learned task with "rev-matching" as you go down. You can hit any gear from neutral, hitting 5th (synchroed) first before getting a gear from a stop will lessen the crunch when it goes in. Up-shifting should be done at a higher rpm and quicker shifts during normal driving to lessen the crash into gear, after some driving you will learn its nuances. A purest will love the mechanical connection between driver and gearbox, It will beg for crushing upshits.
Just make sure you are very firm with every shift. Don't try to ease it into gear. That's what beats the lugs up. Same for downshifting. I haven't had much luck downshifting, even rev matching it still bangs pretty good. Usually I just wait till I'm slower than I think I need to be before downshifting. I will never go back to a syncro trans though!!
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Here is a link to our other Aftermarket gear and faceplating thread. Lots of good discussion and information in there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...fo-thread.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...fo-thread.html
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 405
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
When downshifting you do not want to skip gears, go 4 3 2 1. Downshifting is a learned task with "rev-matching" as you go down. You can hit any gear from neutral, hitting 5th (synchroed) first before getting a gear from a stop will lessen the crunch when it goes in. Up-shifting should be done at a higher rpm and quicker shifts during normal driving to lessen the crash into gear, after some driving you will learn its nuances. A purest will love the mechanical connection between driver and gearbox, It will beg for crushing upshits.
