Now offering reman'ed T56's outright !
01-31-2011, 04:58 AM
#22
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I have a LT1 core minus input shaft, what would I be looking at to get it rebuilt to stage 3 with bronze fork pads, triple cone syncros, steel shift forks for 1-2, 3-4, and billit keys. It would be going behind a 370 LS1 motor should be around 500hp at the rear wheels, and I plan on up to a 200 shot of nitrous. Anything else I should plan on doing to the tranny, or would going with a t56 Magnum be a better route?
01-31-2011, 10:48 AM
#23
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Yes, you can do that. Just pay full price for the Stage 3 ($2500), and once your T56 is received and the damage is assessed, I'll refund the difference.
The Stage 3 build starts at $1380. So, if your tranny needs $300 of parts that are damaged, then the total is $1680. 2500-1680 = $820 refund. Of course shipping has to be figured in too, but you get the point. Thanks!
The Stage 3 build starts at $1380. So, if your tranny needs $300 of parts that are damaged, then the total is $1680. 2500-1680 = $820 refund. Of course shipping has to be figured in too, but you get the point. Thanks!
01-31-2011, 12:09 PM
#26
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I have a LT1 core minus input shaft, what would I be looking at to get it rebuilt to stage 3 with bronze fork pads, triple cone syncros, steel shift forks for 1-2, 3-4, and billit keys. It would be going behind a 370 LS1 motor should be around 500hp at the rear wheels, and I plan on up to a 200 shot of nitrous. Anything else I should plan on doing to the tranny, or would going with a t56 Magnum be a better route?
Here is how the price would break down. $1380 for the Stage 3 build, add approximately $350 for for the LS1 input and front plate, and then add $250 for the triple cone ring conversion. This would add up to $1980. The max charge for this setup w/ exchange is $2200, so your final price would be $1980-2200 depending on what all is wrong with the LT1 core. Shipping is $80-100 each way to most states.
Last edited by TDP; 01-31-2011 at 12:15 PM.
02-01-2011, 05:17 PM
#28
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention something. The Stage 3 w/ triple cone rings is the 32-spline mainshaft, instead of the 31. The 31 spline shaft will not work with the triple cone rings. Both shafts are basically the same strength.
No, I got rid of the last one with a conversion kit that I sold a few weeks ago. I'm seriously considering getting some of these spacers made, as there is a huge demand for them. 
02-01-2011, 06:39 PM
#29
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That being the case, I can vouch for these trannys. Mine had previously been built by a big name sponsor here on the forum, and broken twice. No problems thus far with the rebuild, and THANK YOU very much for turning that around so quick. I was really impressed. We were really in a bind, and I couldn't belive when Steve told me that he was dropping it off at 3:30 in the afternoon and planning on sending me home that night. SNL installed it in less than an hour, and I got on the highway and drove 5 hours home. Beat on it since with none of the problems that I had before.
I may be contacting you for another tranny soon.
I may be contacting you for another tranny soon.
02-01-2011, 08:05 PM
#31
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That being the case, I can vouch for these trannys. Mine had previously been built by a big name sponsor here on the forum, and broken twice. No problems thus far with the rebuild, and THANK YOU very much for turning that around so quick. I was really impressed. We were really in a bind, and I couldn't belive when Steve told me that he was dropping it off at 3:30 in the afternoon and planning on sending me home that night. SNL installed it in less than an hour, and I got on the highway and drove 5 hours home. Beat on it since with none of the problems that I had before.
I may be contacting you for another tranny soon.
I may be contacting you for another tranny soon.
I've seen that same problem with a few other triple cone T56's (GTO, Corvette, etc..). It seems this particular style of billet key (most common one) doesn't work well with these T56s. I've seen the actual keys break as well as the outer rings crack. The style of billet key that I use is a unique design actually made by a local machine shop. Unfortunately, most T56 builders don't even know this style exists, so they don't use them. Needless to say, I've never had a problem with them in any transmission. I'm actually planning to get a huge batch made soon.
02-02-2011, 02:18 PM
#32
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As long as it comes with what I need for it to be a bolt-in replacement for the OEM unit, I should be ok. It amazes me that the guy has put 82k a stocker, connected to a DLS 9" rear end via a Denny's Nitrous-ready Driveshaft and putting up to 530 to the wheels.
Once I get to actually ordering (some time after the car is delivered to me), I'll go over the details with you again.
Last edited by Emfuser; 02-02-2011 at 02:23 PM.
02-02-2011, 07:03 PM
#33
Glad I was able to help! Honestly, the timing just happened to work out perfectly. Had it been any other day, the chances of getting it all done on such short notice would have been very slim.
I've seen that same problem with a few other triple cone T56's (GTO, Corvette, etc..). It seems this particular style of billet key (most common one) doesn't work well with these T56s. I've seen the actual keys break as well as the outer rings crack. The style of billet key that I use is a unique design actually made by a local machine shop. Unfortunately, most T56 builders don't even know this style exists, so they don't use them. Needless to say, I've never had a problem with them in any transmission. I'm actually planning to get a huge batch made soon.
I've seen that same problem with a few other triple cone T56's (GTO, Corvette, etc..). It seems this particular style of billet key (most common one) doesn't work well with these T56s. I've seen the actual keys break as well as the outer rings crack. The style of billet key that I use is a unique design actually made by a local machine shop. Unfortunately, most T56 builders don't even know this style exists, so they don't use them. Needless to say, I've never had a problem with them in any transmission. I'm actually planning to get a huge batch made soon.
I'm going to be assembling my triple cone T56 soon...but I haven't bought billet keys from anyone yet.
02-03-2011, 01:06 AM
#35
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Stock is what? 27 spline?
As long as it comes with what I need for it to be a bolt-in replacement for the OEM unit, I should be ok. It amazes me that the guy has put 82k a stocker, connected to a DLS 9" rear end via a Denny's Nitrous-ready Driveshaft and putting up to 530 to the wheels.
Once I get to actually ordering (some time after the car is delivered to me), I'll go over the details with you again.
As long as it comes with what I need for it to be a bolt-in replacement for the OEM unit, I should be ok. It amazes me that the guy has put 82k a stocker, connected to a DLS 9" rear end via a Denny's Nitrous-ready Driveshaft and putting up to 530 to the wheels.
Once I get to actually ordering (some time after the car is delivered to me), I'll go over the details with you again.
You can use any one of the two gear sets, but you have to keep 1-4 the same, since it all has to match up with the countershaft. But you can have the lower 5-6, or vise-versa.
02-03-2011, 06:57 AM
#36
The appendix in the SSR 32-spline write-up explains the ratio calculations and gear tooth counts available.
02-03-2011, 01:08 PM
#37
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You might want to correct/rephrase this. Since the M12 and MM6 units have the same 5,6 gears, swapping between them won't allow you to change the ratios between the 2 sets. Only the late model MZ6 or the '93 M28/M29 5th/6th gear sets would change the ratios, but even then to a hybrid ratio different than either M12 or MM6 has.
The appendix in the SSR 32-spline write-up explains the ratio calculations and gear tooth counts available.
The appendix in the SSR 32-spline write-up explains the ratio calculations and gear tooth counts available.
My above post was more of a generalization. All I was saying is that 1-4 has to match, and 5-6 has to match. This also applies to using the triple cone setup for 1-4 and single on 5-6, or vise-versa.
02-07-2011, 06:25 AM
#38
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I would do this change by using the 5-6 gears out of the aftermarket Cobra T56. I happen to have 2 sets right now. They use the 36-31 tooth driven gear as opposed to the 37-29. I calculated the ratio that this would come out to one time, but I forgot and lost the formula.
My above post was more of a generalization. All I was saying is that 1-4 has to match, and 5-6 has to match. This also applies to using the triple cone setup for 1-4 and single on 5-6, or vise-versa.
My above post was more of a generalization. All I was saying is that 1-4 has to match, and 5-6 has to match. This also applies to using the triple cone setup for 1-4 and single on 5-6, or vise-versa.
With that said, what is the lowest (numerical) 5 & 6 gear ratios I can get on an f-body t-56 with the 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00 first through fourth gears? I'm looking to stay as close to the stock 0.74, 0.50 for 5 & 6 since my car spends a lot of time on the highway.
Thanks.
02-08-2011, 12:31 PM
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TDP,
With that said, what is the lowest (numerical) 5 & 6 gear ratios I can get on an f-body t-56 with the 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00 first through fourth gears? I'm looking to stay as close to the stock 0.74, 0.50 for 5 & 6 since my car spends a lot of time on the highway.
Thanks.
With that said, what is the lowest (numerical) 5 & 6 gear ratios I can get on an f-body t-56 with the 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00 first through fourth gears? I'm looking to stay as close to the stock 0.74, 0.50 for 5 & 6 since my car spends a lot of time on the highway.
Thanks.