Why cant you change the clutch disc without changing the PP and F/W
#1
Why cant you change the clutch disc without changing the PP and F/W
I was talking to my room mate about clutches and how I needed a new one. I have a spec 3 and was going to buy a monster. I am not 100% that I do need a new one but I will see when I get home. He suggested that I just change the clutch disc and not the PP or the Flywheel. I said "well you cant do that" When he asked me why not, I didnt have a legit answer. Why is it that you cant? Sorry for the noob question.
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
A new disc. should be used with new PP and FW surfaces. Never one but not the other.
A pressure plate and flywheel are usually able to be machined so their surface is like new, as long as their min. thickness spec is considered.
What matters is whether it's time/cost beneficial for you to have the PP & flywheel turned or buy new ones. And if the PP is lower mileage and in good condition or not.
(you'll get a lot of kneejerk "you should buy a new PP" responses)
When the LS1 F-bodies were new and hydraulic clutch release issues caused trans. and clutch warranty claims, dealers would machine parts as described above. Later they went to "new only" policy, possibly to save labor hours. Just because the 2003 policy to dealer mechanics says to replace doesn't mean you have to.
A pressure plate and flywheel are usually able to be machined so their surface is like new, as long as their min. thickness spec is considered.
What matters is whether it's time/cost beneficial for you to have the PP & flywheel turned or buy new ones. And if the PP is lower mileage and in good condition or not.
(you'll get a lot of kneejerk "you should buy a new PP" responses)
When the LS1 F-bodies were new and hydraulic clutch release issues caused trans. and clutch warranty claims, dealers would machine parts as described above. Later they went to "new only" policy, possibly to save labor hours. Just because the 2003 policy to dealer mechanics says to replace doesn't mean you have to.
#3
well theoretically you could, some manufacturers will sell disks separately
basically you want a fresh surface for the new clutch disk. this is why you resurface the flywheel, basically like having brake rotors turned. I've seen pressure plates resurfaced, but it seems to be highly frowned upon. I think by decreasing the thickness of both sides you're screwing up the way the pressure plate is designed to clamp the disk. plus manufacturers occasionally change their disk size and even thickness, so even if you stay with the same manufacturer you have to be really careful that they haven't messed with the thickness or anything since, or it won't engage/disengage right. also if you just reuse the pressure plate or flywheel as-is and it's not flat, it can cause chatter.
i'm no clutch expert, but just from installing a few and looking at how they work, that's the best explanation i can give
and on a side note take a look at TDP's Diamond Clutches, you can get a stage 1 or 2 for around $370-410 range depending on your power output. my stage 2 drives insanely smooth with my stock flywheel.
basically you want a fresh surface for the new clutch disk. this is why you resurface the flywheel, basically like having brake rotors turned. I've seen pressure plates resurfaced, but it seems to be highly frowned upon. I think by decreasing the thickness of both sides you're screwing up the way the pressure plate is designed to clamp the disk. plus manufacturers occasionally change their disk size and even thickness, so even if you stay with the same manufacturer you have to be really careful that they haven't messed with the thickness or anything since, or it won't engage/disengage right. also if you just reuse the pressure plate or flywheel as-is and it's not flat, it can cause chatter.
i'm no clutch expert, but just from installing a few and looking at how they work, that's the best explanation i can give
and on a side note take a look at TDP's Diamond Clutches, you can get a stage 1 or 2 for around $370-410 range depending on your power output. my stage 2 drives insanely smooth with my stock flywheel.
#5
that can be a side effect, but I'd say it's more a risk of messing up engagement/disengament and possibly losing clamping force
again I'm no clutch expert. I believe the Diamond stage 3 is rated at 700hp if you need something bigger, but the guy who runs TDP is planning to but his stage 2 behind a 650ish horsepower turbo car, so ask him what he recommends if you're not entirely set on another brand yet
again I'm no clutch expert. I believe the Diamond stage 3 is rated at 700hp if you need something bigger, but the guy who runs TDP is planning to but his stage 2 behind a 650ish horsepower turbo car, so ask him what he recommends if you're not entirely set on another brand yet