LS7 clutch slipping
#1
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When I had the LS3 installed last June, the Fidanza steel flywheel insert I use was found to have hot spots. I chose to have it turned instead of replacing it. Fast forward to September at LSFest, where my Katech oil pump's orifice got stuck open due to some tiny physical garbage from who knows where. When a new pump was installed, I chose to save time and have the installer make the best effort in re-sealing everything without dropping the k-member.
While the dipstick doesn't show use, the bottom of the motor regularly is being douched in a hydarulic dusty mess. Last week while tuning I noticed the clutch was slipping for the first time in the upper RPM's. I took the car to a dealer to put some dye in it the other day to try to isolate where the fluid is coming from so I can resolve that. They cleaned off the bottom but said an initial inspection would appear to be the oil pan and/or the rear main cover.
If it's coming from the rear main cover, could that be causing the clutch slippage? I don't want to fix the clutch until I know it won't prematurely be damaged.
If the slippage is just normal wear, should I stick with the LS7 clutch with the LS3 motor? I love everything about the LS7 clutch with the 13lb flywheel, but I think I read somewhere that it might be a little underrated for that use? It's my daily driver which I don't drag race, and might see some autocross or HPDE's. The Katech LS9R/X being almost $2000, and replacement flywheels at $820 is ludicrous.
While the dipstick doesn't show use, the bottom of the motor regularly is being douched in a hydarulic dusty mess. Last week while tuning I noticed the clutch was slipping for the first time in the upper RPM's. I took the car to a dealer to put some dye in it the other day to try to isolate where the fluid is coming from so I can resolve that. They cleaned off the bottom but said an initial inspection would appear to be the oil pan and/or the rear main cover.
If it's coming from the rear main cover, could that be causing the clutch slippage? I don't want to fix the clutch until I know it won't prematurely be damaged.
If the slippage is just normal wear, should I stick with the LS7 clutch with the LS3 motor? I love everything about the LS7 clutch with the 13lb flywheel, but I think I read somewhere that it might be a little underrated for that use? It's my daily driver which I don't drag race, and might see some autocross or HPDE's. The Katech LS9R/X being almost $2000, and replacement flywheels at $820 is ludicrous.
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#4
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Jim, to answer your questions, yes, having a leak of this kind could contaminate the clutch disc and thus lead to slippage. The only way to thoroughly assess the parts is to remove them and exmaine them. You are welcome to send me pics at any time and I will be happy to assist in looking them over. As for a good clutch option, we offer 7 different single disc options and both steel and aluminum flywheels. I would be happy to provide a recommendation if you can let me know more about your planned torque output, future mods, and usage type. Thanks!
#5
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I've already had my share of grief in the past with McLeod (red plate), RAM (pink-ish plate), and SPEC (yellow & blue plates) clutches. I don't like using a magic 8-ball with an aftermarket clutch. The places I've had the tranny swaps done don't measure to determine if a shim is required before re-installing the clutch. I just want as close to a stock feel as possible while being reliable. The only thing I don't like about the LS7 clutch is the weight which I try to offset with the Fidanza flywheel.
I'd have to check my box of receipts, but I think I've only purchased one LS7 clutch kit, and then replaced the steel insert on the Fidanza flywheel as necessary. If that's the case, it's lasted me a few years. I hope I have time to get the fluid leak(s) resolved before I'm forced to replace the clutch. If it's the rear main seal, then I'll be making an expedited clutch purchase.
Edit: I just searched through my posts, and my first LS7 clutch went in during 2006, and a second went in during 2009.
I'd have to check my box of receipts, but I think I've only purchased one LS7 clutch kit, and then replaced the steel insert on the Fidanza flywheel as necessary. If that's the case, it's lasted me a few years. I hope I have time to get the fluid leak(s) resolved before I'm forced to replace the clutch. If it's the rear main seal, then I'll be making an expedited clutch purchase.
Edit: I just searched through my posts, and my first LS7 clutch went in during 2006, and a second went in during 2009.
Last edited by JimMueller; 02-02-2011 at 03:35 PM.