T56 Timkin transmission tail shaft bearing install
04-03-2011, 08:15 PM
#1
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T56 Timkin transmission tail shaft bearing install I had a transmission leak coming from the tailshaft so I pulled the seal and bearing and replaced using a Timkin seal and bearing from Autozone. I used this tool (http://atoztool.com/2200.html) from AtoZ Tools to install the bearing. Everything went smootly until I went to put my driveshaft back in. When I slid the driveshaft onto the transmission output shaft it slid up to where the new bearing is and then it was very tight and hard to slide in the remaining way. I was able to get the driveshaft all the way in by rotating it and pushing until I could get it attached to the rear end. I started up the car and put it in first and let it idle while still on the stands for a minute or so because I was concerned the driveshaft would be rubbing on the bearing and it would squeal or grind. You can't hear or feel a grind but when I shut the car off the tail shaft of the transmission was very hot, so I know the friction between the new bearing and driveshaft is too much at the moment. What I don't know is if this is normal until the bearing gets broken in or if something went wrong during the bearing install? I made sure that after I put the bearing in that it didn't disform and that it was completely in. I did notice that the new timkin bearing had a copper interior that the old bearing didn't have so I'm wondering if it just needs some "break-in" time but I'm not sure if this is normal or if I should pull the whole thing and start over?
Anyone else noticed this extra heat after a new bearing install? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone else noticed this extra heat after a new bearing install? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
04-03-2011, 08:56 PM
#2
The common commercial bushings are one with dimpled and grooved bronze inner surface
or babbit with teflon coated inner surface. If you pull yours now and measure, you'll find that the o.d. shows deformation.
The wide grooves of the GM small output tailhousing are a poor design and somewhere along the line, GM or Tremec absolved themselves of serviceability concerns by not listing the bushing separately. Someone on here spoke to Tremec who told them that they machine the bushing post-install into the tailhousing. This is false.
I've had tailhousings that were easy (drove the bushing w/ a block of wood,) and I've had one that inspired me to get that tool. I even had a pipe turned down to use as a driver.
Drive it; it'll wear-in.
or babbit with teflon coated inner surface. If you pull yours now and measure, you'll find that the o.d. shows deformation.
The wide grooves of the GM small output tailhousing are a poor design and somewhere along the line, GM or Tremec absolved themselves of serviceability concerns by not listing the bushing separately. Someone on here spoke to Tremec who told them that they machine the bushing post-install into the tailhousing. This is false.
I've had tailhousings that were easy (drove the bushing w/ a block of wood,) and I've had one that inspired me to get that tool. I even had a pipe turned down to use as a driver.
Drive it; it'll wear-in.
04-04-2011, 06:44 PM
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Thanks for the input guys, I did make sure to put some transmission fluid on the bearing and driveshaft before installing it but I concede the point that it wouldn't last long with it just running on stands.
I drove it to work and back today and it seems to be ok, I'm going to put a few more miles on it and then put it back on stands and see if the resistance has gone away by the bearing "wearing in". Again thanks for the input.
I drove it to work and back today and it seems to be ok, I'm going to put a few more miles on it and then put it back on stands and see if the resistance has gone away by the bearing "wearing in". Again thanks for the input.
