citationls

Last week I came to a stop revved her up to around 2 or 3 thousand then dropped the clutch, stepped on the brake and gave it some gas. I was rolling a little probably like 5mph and the rpms were low and the tires werent breaking loose then I gave it some more gas and the car didn't start going much faster but the rpms went up to normal burnout rmps (around 5 or 6000) and I kept on the gas for a few seconds then I let off the gas and brake and put in the clutch and realized that something was wrong. It turned out the tires weren't spinning but there was a decent cloud of smoke and it smelled a ton, I'm assuming the smell/smoke was the clutch. Then the clutch pedal was stuck 3/4 of the way down to the floor and it eventuallly came back out after I let it sit for a minute. Since then the pedal has been pretty soft, not nearly as much resistance as it should have, and its pretty mushy. I've tried gunning it since then to test the clutch but it didn't seem like it was slipping. Basically, its really mushy with not enough resistance.

What are your guesses as to what's wrong? I've looked at the drill mod but idk if that'll fix my problem. Do you think the clutch is toasted?
Thanks

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

First I'd start by swapping the fluid in the clutch master reservoir as I'm sure it's black. Ideally I'd bleed the whole hydraulic system, but it may not matter as I'm sure you've glazed the crap out of the flywheel/pressure plate and if you got the clutch diaphragm springs hot enough you may have weakened them. Meaning you're clutch is never going to be the same, if you have any questions feel free to call me. Chris, 817-750-2000

BALLSS

you dumped the clutch...and then applied the brake and more gas...wtf. so you glazed your clutch and may have overheated the hydraulics as well.

as suggested replace hydraulic fluid and bleed...most likely need a new clutch also.

in the future stay away from applying the brake on clutch dumps/burnouts....they make line locks

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Definitely start by flushing and refilling the hydraulic fluid. Then you can better assess the situation. By holding the brake like you did you are effectively causing the clutch and brakes to fight against each other, which can cause massive amounts of heat and wear. Let me know what you experience after the flush and fill and I will be happy to help you in any way. Thanks and good luck!

citationls

Ok so I'm gonna start by flushing the system. Then I'll probably end up replacing the clutch but what are the odds that the master cylinder/slave cylinder need replacing too?
By the way I know that stepping on the brake while hitting the gas is contradictory but I don't have a line lock (clearly that would be a good investment to make) and I wasn't stomping on the brake, just holding it down enough so I wouldn't take off. My brakes were already warped from the last owner so I wasn't super worried about that although I didn't plan on holding it for that long.
Anyway, right now I only have one set of ramps so I would need jack stands for the back and possibly for the front but how hard is it to replace the clutch or whatever parts I probably need to replace? Compared to a cam swap how much work am I looking at? Also, if I flush the system now and end up putting in a new clutch that's just gonna waste the fluid because it comes out during a clutch install right?
Thanks a lot

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

How many miles are on the hydraulics? They've since updated the master and slave if stock. Clutch isn't a fun job to do your back, but can be done. The clutch fluid doesn't get lost during a swap, but you will need to bleed the lines to make sure there isn't any air in them after disconnecting the fittings between slave and master.

citationls

The car has 18000 on it and everything with the clutch should be stock so would my stock cylinders still work or should they be replaced?