bpittman

iTrader: (1)

I see a lot of comments regarding having to change driving style with this clutch to avoid glazing.

Can someone elaborate on how this clutch will have to be driven compared to my stock ls6 clutch?

Different situations would be cool, stop-and-go, stop light/sign, normal/non aggressive driving.

I'm looking to get this clutch over a full disk because I'm wanting to track the car (high rpm launch on slicks)

Thanks for any help!

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

Basically the clutch will want to see very little slippage, just let the pedal out and go.

bpittman

iTrader: (1)

Related question, with this same clutch how will a tick master cylinder change the driveability compared to the stock master?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Pedal is a little heavier. Don't slip it a lot - some slip is okay, and make sure to beat on it every day to keep it from glazing.

bpittman

iTrader: (1)

I understand the stage 3 will cause a heavier pedal, does the tick master increase that pressure further?

From doing some additional reading, i see some people stating that it drives like a stocker after ~1000 miles of break-in/use. Is that a true statement or is it really just a matter of it taking about that long to adjust to the clutch.

Thanks for the replies so far, appreciate it!

xRelapse13

iTrader: (21)

engages near very top. effectively like an on/off switch. need to give it some gas and just go, if u mess up it will let you know and chatter.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Bigger bore master cylinder - takes more effort to move the fluid.

Does it drive like stock - it's close but not as forgiving. Chatter should be gone completely by the time it's broke in.

bpittman

iTrader: (1)

Does the tick master allow adjustment of this? Or is that more of an effect of clutch thickness/dimensions and would have to be adjusted with shims?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Tick master you can set it on the floor if you want....shouldn't need to shim it.

mf2kta

iTrader: (3)

I have a stage 2. It's very hard to get smooth engagement in first gear. Every other gear is just fine. If the vehicle is moving just the slightest bit, it will engage smoothly. From a dead stop, I have a little bit of chatter almost every time. Honestly, it's annoying. However.....I've taken it to the track once and driven the crap out of it on the street a couple of times and it grabs hard every time. Not even a hint of slip. If this was my daily driver, I would probably be regretting it. Just FYI.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Really? My stage 3 has zero chatter. I can take of from an idle....

Have you tried revving it to 1500 and letting it out quickly? Did it chatter after the track?

Matt@SNLPerformance

iTrader: (1)

Give us a call and we can answer your questions about Monster Clutches.

Matt
817-750-2000

IWGF

iTrader: (6)

I love my stage III. Drives really damn well, held up under a lot of nitrous abuse. It will squeal if you don't beat on it every so often, mine will start to, and I'll let it have some abuse and it's good to go.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

My friend has one in his ss the tick honestly isnt that bad I dont even notice it compared to the stocker... The clutch is like everyone here says if you slip it to take off smooth like you would with a stock clutch it will chatter if you just rev it and let the pedal go quick it will just grab and go. He doesnt mind it but personally it annoys me especially since the car is just a bolt on car. If you are staying stock internals or even a mild H/C setup I'd do the ls7 with a tick m/c

nobird8991

iTrader: (4)

if you have to think about it it prolly isn't for you. i love my monster stage 3. its not a stock clutch its not going to act like one but man it takes everything i throw at it. been making 600tq 520hp at the tire for 2 years now and it still drives fine. squeaks a little here and there i can slip it a little say a stop light on a hill or something. but it grabs a lot harder then a stock clutch would.

bpittman

iTrader: (1)

Confused by that statement, but the rest of your post was helpful. I'm looking at the clutch for it's ability to take track abuse (high rpm clutch dumps, h/c/i with slicks), just trying to gather information on what life is going to be like with it on the street. Can't say i've done any mods without thinking about them and weighing the pros and cons.

nobird8991

iTrader: (4)

just saying if you are overly concerned with it not acting like your stock clutch then you might not be happy with it. if you read some of the threads floating around there are people complaining about how the stage 3 squeals when letting out from a stop. its gonna happen if it gets slipped a lot. i'm used to it i learned how to drive it better just took some playing around.

i drive my car every day when its nice out here in the minnesota summers. put about 6-8k miles on it every year. it can be friendly but at the same time its gonna grab and it will let you know its there.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Or our Level 2 would be better suited than the 3 for a bolt-on car. Heck Our Level 1 is far superior to the LS7 and would easily hold the power. Feel free to call me and I'll be more than happy to explain all the reasons why. Chris, 817-750-2000

bpittman

iTrader: (1)

How much abuse can a level 2 handle (car has 9" with 4.11's 26 or 27" slicks, will be in the ~450 rwhp range). I'm planning to have the transmission rebuilt eliminating the weak links and upgrading the clutch and hydraulics at that time. Would a level 2 be my weakest link in this application if I went that route? The street manners of a level 2 are appealing since I dd the car. But i also want to be able to leave hard at the track.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I've been 11.03 on a 1.57 in my H/C vette that put down 404rwhp on our dyno with a Level 2. If you have a 9" I'd go Level 3, as a lot of a clutches driveability comes down to the drivers ability.