Monster stage 3 driveability.
Monster stage 3 driveability. I see a lot of comments regarding having to change driving style with this clutch to avoid glazing.
Can someone elaborate on how this clutch will have to be driven compared to my stock ls6 clutch?
Different situations would be cool, stop-and-go, stop light/sign, normal/non aggressive driving.
I'm looking to get this clutch over a full disk because I'm wanting to track the car (high rpm launch on slicks)
Thanks for any help!
Can someone elaborate on how this clutch will have to be driven compared to my stock ls6 clutch?
Different situations would be cool, stop-and-go, stop light/sign, normal/non aggressive driving.
I'm looking to get this clutch over a full disk because I'm wanting to track the car (high rpm launch on slicks)
Thanks for any help!
From doing some additional reading, i see some people stating that it drives like a stocker after ~1000 miles of break-in/use. Is that a true statement or is it really just a matter of it taking about that long to adjust to the clutch.
Thanks for the replies so far, appreciate it!
I understand the stage 3 will cause a heavier pedal, does the tick master increase that pressure further?
From doing some additional reading, i see some people stating that it drives like a stocker after ~1000 miles of break-in/use. Is that a true statement or is it really just a matter of it taking about that long to adjust to the clutch.
Thanks for the replies so far, appreciate it!
From doing some additional reading, i see some people stating that it drives like a stocker after ~1000 miles of break-in/use. Is that a true statement or is it really just a matter of it taking about that long to adjust to the clutch.
Thanks for the replies so far, appreciate it!
Does it drive like stock - it's close but not as forgiving. Chatter should be gone completely by the time it's broke in.
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I have a stage 2. It's very hard to get smooth engagement in first gear. Every other gear is just fine. If the vehicle is moving just the slightest bit, it will engage smoothly. From a dead stop, I have a little bit of chatter almost every time. Honestly, it's annoying. However.....I've taken it to the track once and driven the crap out of it on the street a couple of times and it grabs hard every time. Not even a hint of slip. If this was my daily driver, I would probably be regretting it. Just FYI.
I have a stage 2. It's very hard to get smooth engagement in first gear. Every other gear is just fine. If the vehicle is moving just the slightest bit, it will engage smoothly. From a dead stop, I have a little bit of chatter almost every time. Honestly, it's annoying. However.....I've taken it to the track once and driven the crap out of it on the street a couple of times and it grabs hard every time. Not even a hint of slip. If this was my daily driver, I would probably be regretting it. Just FYI.
Have you tried revving it to 1500 and letting it out quickly? Did it chatter after the track?
I love my stage III. Drives really damn well, held up under a lot of nitrous abuse. It will squeal if you don't beat on it every so often, mine will start to, and I'll let it have some abuse and it's good to go.
My friend has one in his ss the tick honestly isnt that bad I dont even notice it compared to the stocker... The clutch is like everyone here says if you slip it to take off smooth like you would with a stock clutch it will chatter if you just rev it and let the pedal go quick it will just grab and go. He doesnt mind it but personally it annoys me especially since the car is just a bolt on car. If you are staying stock internals or even a mild H/C setup I'd do the ls7 with a tick m/c
if you have to think about it it prolly isn't for you. i love my monster stage 3. its not a stock clutch its not going to act like one but man it takes everything i throw at it. been making 600tq 520hp at the tire for 2 years now and it still drives fine. squeaks a little here and there i can slip it a little say a stop light on a hill or something. but it grabs a lot harder then a stock clutch would.
Confused by that statement, but the rest of your post was helpful. I'm looking at the clutch for it's ability to take track abuse (high rpm clutch dumps, h/c/i with slicks), just trying to gather information on what life is going to be like with it on the street. Can't say i've done any mods without thinking about them and weighing the pros and cons.
Confused by that statement, but the rest of your post was helpful. I'm looking at the clutch for it's ability to take track abuse (high rpm clutch dumps, h/c/i with slicks), just trying to gather information on what life is going to be like with it on the street. Can't say i've done any mods without thinking about them and weighing the pros and cons.
i drive my car every day when its nice out here in the minnesota summers. put about 6-8k miles on it every year. it can be friendly but at the same time its gonna grab and it will let you know its there.
My friend has one in his ss the tick honestly isnt that bad I dont even notice it compared to the stocker... The clutch is like everyone here says if you slip it to take off smooth like you would with a stock clutch it will chatter if you just rev it and let the pedal go quick it will just grab and go. He doesnt mind it but personally it annoys me especially since the car is just a bolt on car. If you are staying stock internals or even a mild H/C setup I'd do the ls7 with a tick m/c
How much abuse can a level 2 handle (car has 9" with 4.11's 26 or 27" slicks, will be in the ~450 rwhp range). I'm planning to have the transmission rebuilt eliminating the weak links and upgrading the clutch and hydraulics at that time. Would a level 2 be my weakest link in this application if I went that route? The street manners of a level 2 are appealing since I dd the car. But i also want to be able to leave hard at the track.
I've been 11.03 on a 1.57 in my H/C vette that put down 404rwhp on our dyno with a Level 2. If you have a 9" I'd go Level 3, as a lot of a clutches driveability comes down to the drivers ability.