SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Clutches don't typically just "blow apart". There has to be a cause for this. 93v8 have you used one of out kits and had an issue? If so and you need some assistance relative to assessment just hit me up. I will be happy to talk with you any time. We sell thousands of kits yearly for this application and have a tremendous number of very happy customers. At any rate, Kid let me know what your torque output is and I will be happy to provide a recomendation. Thanks!

kidcamaro98

iTrader: (8)

my torque on a 150 shot is just over 600 to the tire. I have a 12 bolt in the car with 4.11's, mt et streets, etc.

It is mostly a street car with a few visits a year to the track....however when I go to the track, I want to be able to launch it hard on motor, and use the nitrous without any issues.

to be honest, I am pretty interested in the Diamond level 2 and the spec 3. Both seem to be in my price range as far as the "basic" kit goes. If its possible, I would like to just have my current flywheel resurfaced.

this is my first standard car I have ever owned, and ever driven for that matter. The ram powergrip clutch that was in it, was the only clutch I have ever had experience with. I dont know to much about clutches to be honest....

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

I think you should look at Monsters 11" race clutch, or a M3. I dont know their pricing right now, but I love my 11" race clutch... and it was only a tiny bit more then what you were looking to spend. Been holding up great on my turbo camaro, im close to 600hp/700trq. I imagine a nitrous car would feel fairly similar.


I did not like the centerforce dual friction, actually had 5 cars purchase them right around the same time... My car, a twin turbo c5 vette, a LQ9 firebird, a low boost supercharged GTO and a mild built camaro. My car was the only one that the weights didnt break on. But it did give up the goods when the weight band wasnt distributing the load properly and went a lot heavier on one side. Burn it up within a 6-7 months of weekend driving, no track time... probably why mine lasted the longest.

Then went to the Fidanza Twin 7.0, which as you can read from so many of the testimonials, held up great till one day it just stopped working at all. Had less then 5k miles on it. Once it slipped it was done, that was the first track day. Fidanza took FOREVER to refund the money, jumped through hoops for months. But to their credit they did.

Then got the Monster 11" race clutch about a year ago. And ive been DDing the car the last 6 months, so ive put a TON of miles on it. Havent had a hickup yet. The harder I beat on this thing, the nicer it is. And it was half the price of the Fidanza.

kidcamaro98

iTrader: (8)

do you have a link to the monster clutch your talking about?

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

If you are referring to my post it wasnt a spec, it was a centerforce dfx. Cause, racing. 7200 rpm launch with 500 to the tire, let go at 7600-7700 rpm in 3rd. it was the only clutch that has ever done that to me. all the rest just slipped, or couldnt engage at those rpms.

fwiw, the powergrip hd shifted beautifully at 7700, just wouldnt take the launches.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

I bought a Luk pro gold 12" kit for a chevy truck and had a puck disk made at the local brake and clutch shop with iron buttons on the PP side and velvet touch pucks on the other side. It held great on my 346 with about 420 RWHP and now its on my 403 NA LS2. A bit grabby but cheap? I bought the kit for $200, used the PP and tossed the 10 spline disk, then bought the button disk for another $200. I did have my assembly balanced for another $75. $475 and holds like hell. I realize most want to spend the money and have the peace of mind that comes with a $700 set up but if you're looking for cheap, you cant beat it. Oh, I guess I should include whatever the .120 shim I bought from Texas Speed in there also. I wish Luk would sell those PP by themselves.....that'd probably knock another $70 off what I spend.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Yeah it will hold just fine. It's not all about the power you make, it also has a lot to do with your driving. If you're only planning on an occasional trip to the track and doing 95% street driving, then the Stg 2 will be fine. I'm running it in my 98' SS which will be making 600-650rwhp/tq.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

I keep hearing great things about the Diamond clutches.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Our Stage 3 would easily work for you. It is usable on the street and will handle track use as well. The engagement will be a bit quicker than a hybrid or full-faced disc type (like our Stage 2+ or 3+) but I don't think you can go wrong with a Stage 3. It would be what I would go with.

You can use this with your stock flywheel as long as it is not cut too thin or repeatedly cut making it too thin. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

93v8clone

i have tried and i know of 3 other spec clutches that havent held - came apart - or didnt live up to there name . am i saying ya dont have any happy customers ? nope i am just stating what i have seen with my own eyes and my own unhappy cutomers man . o/p is a personall friend of mine and i wanna see that he gets the best possible option for his car as i dont wanna do it more than once lol . oh and before ya ask , the clutches i saw fail was from stock to a decent build and shhit in between .

kidcamaro98

iTrader: (8)

I bought a level 2 Diamond from TDP

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

Good choice. I wish I went with that or the level 3

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

OP when you get some miles on it let us know how you like it. Very interested in their clutches when mine goes.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

93 I appreciate your experience but they don't just come apart without cause. Did you, or these customers contact us? If this was something experienced by a group that may have shared the same installer or other factors these could contribute to proper function and durability. Just a thought!