First time replacing a clutch, need a few pointers.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
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From: Decatur, Illinois
First time replacing a clutch, need a few pointers. My situation: My 01 WS6 has been rotting for over a year in my garage due to a blown clutch (money issues). I just ordered and received a Monster Stage 2 clutch, with the light weight flywheel, bearings, the whole kit. I also picked up a new rear main seal since almost everywhere I read people said to replace that while I'm underneath there with everything pulled apart. I'll be doing this in my garage with the help of jack stands and cinder blocks.
What I'd like some help with: How much of a pain in the *** is this going to be? Will the exhaust manifolds get in the way much. Will I have to pop them loose to get the transmission out. Is there a way to disconnect the shifter from the transmission itself? I only ask because I have an aftermarket Hurst shifter and one of the bolt heads is stripped out and going to be a real pain to drill out if I have to. I was also wondering if now would be the time to go ahead and do the exhaust while I'm at it.
Any help, tips, suggestions on anything else I should take care of while I'm at it will be greatly appreciated.
What I'd like some help with: How much of a pain in the *** is this going to be? Will the exhaust manifolds get in the way much. Will I have to pop them loose to get the transmission out. Is there a way to disconnect the shifter from the transmission itself? I only ask because I have an aftermarket Hurst shifter and one of the bolt heads is stripped out and going to be a real pain to drill out if I have to. I was also wondering if now would be the time to go ahead and do the exhaust while I'm at it.
Any help, tips, suggestions on anything else I should take care of while I'm at it will be greatly appreciated.
Its pretty easy. I highly recommend a tranny jack. will make your life much easier.
THis isnt the same clutch but it should answer most of your questions. I just googled this quick.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ch_install.htm
THis isnt the same clutch but it should answer most of your questions. I just googled this quick.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ch_install.htm
The top two (of 8 total)trans-to-bellhousing bolts can be accessed from in the car w/ 6 to 9" of extensions.
Stock, there's an exhaust hanger attached but easy to deal with.
Use the alignment tool for the clutch disc while/before you tighten pressure plate bolts. Wobble it up and down; hold it about 5/8 of the way up, tighten bolts.
Stock, there's an exhaust hanger attached but easy to deal with.
Use the alignment tool for the clutch disc while/before you tighten pressure plate bolts. Wobble it up and down; hold it about 5/8 of the way up, tighten bolts.
Make sure you use that alignment tool and wiggle it to be sure you have it lined up and you don't bind the pressure plate into being crooked. I did an A4-M6 swap and the ONLY hitch I ran into was that the trans would not slide into the pilot bearing. I tore the clutch back of and found that I did not have it lined up well.
Also, if you don't have a trans jack, make sure you have someone else under there with you to help you lower it to the ground (and get it back up more importantly). I made a wooden platform for a regular floor jack and it worked well coming out, but going back in it rolled a little and i tried to catch it and i ended up snapped the line off the slave cylinder. $100 a two days later, I used the same platform, but with a second set of hands to hold it steady.
Its not an awful job. That install guide is pretty good. Its no where near as heavy as an A4, so that's nice. Just torque to spec and do everything slowly and you'll be really pleased.
Also, if you don't have a trans jack, make sure you have someone else under there with you to help you lower it to the ground (and get it back up more importantly). I made a wooden platform for a regular floor jack and it worked well coming out, but going back in it rolled a little and i tried to catch it and i ended up snapped the line off the slave cylinder. $100 a two days later, I used the same platform, but with a second set of hands to hold it steady.
Its not an awful job. That install guide is pretty good. Its no where near as heavy as an A4, so that's nice. Just torque to spec and do everything slowly and you'll be really pleased.
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From: Battlecreek, MI / Mansfield, OH
going into making sure the clutch disc is aligned, If the transmission does not slide in and sit flush against the bell housing, do not try to force it by putting in some bolts and start to tighten them up. If you have a gap between the transmission and the bell housing than your input shaft is not in the pilot bearing, and your clutch disc may not be properly aligned. DO NOT TRY TO JUST PULL THE TRANSMISSION TO THE BELLHOUSING WITH THE BOLTS, if it's not flush then wiggle the transmission around until the input shaft goes into the pilot bearing, and if worst comes to worse, drop the transmission back down and check your clutch disc alignment. That is the best advice I can give you when it comes to putting in a new clutch.
I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a tranny jack. Ive done it without it and it was horrible. Especially if your gonna do it alone like I did. I got this one for $80.
Another tip I have is be PATIENT. Your only gonna **** **** up and waste more money if your not.
Another tip I have is be PATIENT. Your only gonna **** **** up and waste more money if your not.
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everyone screams not to use the bolts to pull the tranny in but what about when it's the preasure plate fingers making contact with the throwout bearing? youre not going to get the trans to just slide in when it's fighting the slave spring
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iTrader: (41)
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Battlecreek, MI / Mansfield, OH
I hope your kidding, that slave spring is so easy to compress, go ahead and pull the threads out of your bell housing, I don't care it's not mine. 
you can tell when the imput shaft is in the pilot bearing there is normally a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch gap thats when i thread my bolts and pull it the rest of the way slowly doing one on each side then the other back and forth. ive done about 10 clutch swaps that way never had a issue
Exactly. I tried putting the trans in 3 times, always with a 1/2" gap. I pushed/pulled in every way possible but it wouldn't go. I put a ratchet on the bolt just to see and it literally took finger strength effort to thread them in. I alternated sides so I wouldnt damage the pilot bearing and havent had any problems in the last 6k miles.
If you can get it all the way in great, and I would never recommend trying this right off the bat, but I fail to see the danger in it if it takes next to no effort and you alternate sides going slowly and patiently. If it's stuck on something serious and it's taking any notable effort obviously you don't use the threads to pull it in. I just had no angle that worked to push/pull/pry the tranny in there and the bolts threaded in like butter.
It worked when nothing else did, and I didn't break/damage anything
If you can get it all the way in great, and I would never recommend trying this right off the bat, but I fail to see the danger in it if it takes next to no effort and you alternate sides going slowly and patiently. If it's stuck on something serious and it's taking any notable effort obviously you don't use the threads to pull it in. I just had no angle that worked to push/pull/pry the tranny in there and the bolts threaded in like butter.
It worked when nothing else did, and I didn't break/damage anything
Last edited by therealcreeper; Jun 21, 2011 at 09:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
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From: Decatur, Illinois
Just wanted to thank all of you guys for the helpful responses. Made the mistake of trying Camaro Forums first since I've been a member there for quite some time and didn't get **** for help, site is worthless. Once again, thanks everyone, I appreciate it.
I have had mine out twice in the last 6 months definatly a trans jack i got the 800lb hydraulic jack from Harbor Freight there usuall like $149 but i wheeled and dealed with the manager and got it for $100. I didnt have it the first time and it was much easier the second time. dont forget to pull the 4 bolts out of the top and remove the shifter assembly you will never have enough clearence of you dont. I have headers and an ORY pipe I had to also remove the Y Pipe to get my trans out. While your in there replace you pilot bearing and slave cylinder too. The hardest part I had was getting the input shaft splines lined up with the clutch and into the pilot bearing, once you have them lined up the trans will slide right up to the bell housing dont force it.
good luck I just put mine back in last week so its pretty fresh in my head PM me if you have any questions
good luck I just put mine back in last week so its pretty fresh in my head PM me if you have any questions
[QUOTE=BAN WS6;15048369. I'll be doing this in my garage with the help of jack stands and cinder blocks.
[/QUOTE]
Please don't work under your car with it on cinder blocks.
Don't forget to drain the fluid before you pull the drive shaft or have a pan ready as the fluid will pour out the tail shaft.
[/QUOTE]
Please don't work under your car with it on cinder blocks.
Don't forget to drain the fluid before you pull the drive shaft or have a pan ready as the fluid will pour out the tail shaft.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
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From: Decatur, Illinois
Just ran into a new problem. I've got an after market Hurst shifter. When I went to pull the inner shifter boot (below the console) it seems like it's glued on. I don't know if it came like this stock or if it was replaced when the shifter was, bought it like that. Short of cutting it off I'm not sure how to get it free. Is it possible to just take the upper shifter handle off and slip the little nub of it remaining down through the boot when I drop the transmission?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Decatur, Illinois
Yeah, I'm an idiot. I had the bolts out and then just started yanking on it and the seal broke. Some sort of adhesive was definitely used but thankfully it wasn't as strong as a first thought. Got the shifter out now and the front end up in the air. Going to try to bum some jack stands tomorrow and get the rear end up and get started if not hopefully finished with the rest of it. I'm just going to take it at a snails pace and take breaks if I get too frustrated. It's been sitting for over a year, a few more days won't hurt. Thanks again for all the responses.
