wont shift @ high rpms
08-11-2011, 09:36 AM
#21
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I agree with you bit I had just purchased 2 oem units and neither of them worked. Good enough at high rpm... could be the after market clutch I have but I purchased the car with it so its hard for me to say where the problems start from..I know the tick mc fixedly issues
08-11-2011, 06:13 PM
#24
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my car wouldnt even go into reverse gear while sitting still unless i turned the car off haha the tick fixed it all.. seeing how i just spent a few hundred bucks on the factory MC and the steel braided line and other parts .. It is way worth it to just get the tick MC first haha
08-11-2011, 06:13 PM
#25
I had this same problem a couple of yra ago with a centerforce clutch, it would shift fine during regular driving but high rpms or 6500 rpms would not shift for nothing. Well it turned out to be the master cylinder and I did the drill mod. I bought a regular stock master and it was fixed. I could shift all the way up to 6500 rpms. Hope this helps someone. I guess people are still having this problem yrs later.
Somehow the rubber bushing cracks or air get in the cylinder where the rod meets the base. All part of GM cheap products. Just buy another master and it should be fixed, thats what I did.
Somehow the rubber bushing cracks or air get in the cylinder where the rod meets the base. All part of GM cheap products. Just buy another master and it should be fixed, thats what I did.
08-13-2011, 11:44 AM
#26
Ok I thought I had this shifting problem solved after replacing the clutch(LS7)
new slave cyl & finally a tick mc. After I installed the tick mc the first bunch of track outings I had very few problems shifting. Really worked great, that was in 2009. I cant say the same for my last 2 track outings, sometimes I couldnt get it into gear or when I was able to make a pass after the run the pedal got low & weak. A few times I had to shut the car off & start it in gear just to get off the track. Both days I tracked the car the weather was in the mid 80s. It seems as the heat from the WOT run is boiling the fuid & if its hot out theres nothing that can be done to fix the problem & just too many others complaining about the same problem. I have also changed the fluid recently, always use dot 4 fluid & great firm clutch pedal under normal conditions.
new slave cyl & finally a tick mc. After I installed the tick mc the first bunch of track outings I had very few problems shifting. Really worked great, that was in 2009. I cant say the same for my last 2 track outings, sometimes I couldnt get it into gear or when I was able to make a pass after the run the pedal got low & weak. A few times I had to shut the car off & start it in gear just to get off the track. Both days I tracked the car the weather was in the mid 80s. It seems as the heat from the WOT run is boiling the fuid & if its hot out theres nothing that can be done to fix the problem & just too many others complaining about the same problem. I have also changed the fluid recently, always use dot 4 fluid & great firm clutch pedal under normal conditions.
08-13-2011, 04:09 PM
#28
It did work great when I first installed it, lately the problem did return though. IMO the tick unit works a lot better than the stock unit. It doesnt feel like its out of adjustment but maybe it is. From my experience with the pedal getting weak it just seems like its the heat boiling the fluid. It will probably work fine in the fall when it cools down some.
08-13-2011, 10:19 PM
#29
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as you guys probably know, the fluid line goes very close to the catalytic converter and is guarded by a heat shield. it might help the problem to make a better heat shield. I have not tried this though, and yes I realize that most of the heat in the system comes from the clutch/slave cylinder
08-14-2011, 03:24 AM
#31
I have not tried this though, and yes I realize that most of the heat in the system comes from the clutch/slave cylinder
08-14-2011, 06:04 AM
#32
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same here I'm having the same problem, (2000 SS) clutch sticks only under WOT. My car is all stock as far as I know (previous owner replaced clutch at around 80-90k miles. Not sure what with. Has a little under 110k now). Most likely going to get a tick master and see what that does for me. 
Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you!
Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you! Last edited by 6spdscreaminchickin; 08-14-2011 at 06:06 AM. Reason: gammer
08-15-2011, 01:47 PM
#33
The first thing to check is the hydraulics. Is the fluid in the reservoir dark or discolored? If so you should flush and refill the system. I also suggest wrapping the line that leads from the Master to the Slave with a good quality heat wrap and make sure that the line is routed behind the heat-sheild as it passes near the header. Let us know if this helps and we can proceed with further tech support from that point.
08-17-2011, 09:01 AM
#34
I'm having the same problem, (2000 SS) clutch sticks only under WOT. My car is all stock as far as I know (previous owner replaced clutch at around 80-90k miles. Not sure what with. Has a little under 110k now). Most likely going to get a tick master and see what that does for me. Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you!
Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you!http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
08-17-2011, 10:17 AM
#35
It did work great when I first installed it, lately the problem did return though. IMO the tick unit works a lot better than the stock unit. It doesnt feel like its out of adjustment but maybe it is. From my experience with the pedal getting weak it just seems like its the heat boiling the fluid. It will probably work fine in the fall when it cools down some.
08-17-2011, 01:16 PM
#36
Did you search and read the other topics just like this one?
Here is my write-up on how I fixed my clutch. The key for me was the spring.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...els-right.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-sticks.html
P.S. I have a good 20K on since pulling the spring out and the pedal hasn't stuck once, and this should be stickied...
Here is my write-up on how I fixed my clutch. The key for me was the spring.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...els-right.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-sticks.html
P.S. I have a good 20K on since pulling the spring out and the pedal hasn't stuck once, and this should be stickied...
Last edited by danbo313; 08-17-2011 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Fixed URL
08-20-2011, 04:00 PM
#37
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I'm having the same problem, (2000 SS) clutch sticks only under WOT. My car is all stock as far as I know (previous owner replaced clutch at around 80-90k miles. Not sure what with. Has a little under 110k now). Most likely going to get a tick master and see what that does for me. Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you!
Wish me luck and good luck to the rest of you!
08-27-2011, 04:55 PM
#38
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Well put the Tick master cylinder in last week. And I have to say I love this thing. It didn't fix my problem but the pedal feels so much better. The throw in the pedal from engaged to disengaged is MUCH shorter. I still need to adjust it a little but I guess my next step is the slave/throwout.
08-27-2011, 05:40 PM
#39
Well put the Tick master cylinder in last week. And I have to say I love this thing. It didn't fix my problem but the pedal feels so much better. The throw in the pedal from engaged to disengaged is MUCH shorter. I still need to adjust it a little but I guess my next step is the slave/throwout.
