Hey all,

I'm still having a hard time getting my clutch pedal to do anything. I've been bleeding for days and I finally started using a mityvac. I tried using it in the reservoir hole and I would constantly get bubbles. Of course I thought I had a loose connection somewhere that was pulling air (on the pump setup) but that is not the case. I also thought maybe there could be a loose connection rom the reservoir to the master cylinder, but if that was the case, I would get a drip, even just a single drop, at some point, so that's not the case.

So, if I hook the mityvac to the reservoir hole, and pump it up (I don't have a vacuum gauge on my model, so I just pumped it about 10 -15 times), I see pretty large bubbles coming out, and they eventually slow to just one bubble every 2-3 seconds, but they keep coming indefinitely. Does this sound correct?

Everyone does a great job of doing write ups, but I never see anyone mention just how long it usually takes. Any advice?

So then, I tried using the mityvac on the Tick Speedbleeder end. I used the attachment that you would use for brake bleeder screws, pumped it up, and started slowly pumping the clutch pedal. I didn't get many air bubbles, all just verrrrry tiny pin head sized ones, but I did get four cups (the mityvac cups) of fluid out (while constantly refilling the clutch fluid reservoir) and this fluid was BLACK. I mean, not even cloudy grey or a little dirty, straight black. I bled an entire quart through the system and I kept getting this fluid out.

So, my question is, how long should it take to not see any air bubbles from the reservoir using the mityvac. Also, despite not seeing many air bubbles from the slave bleeder, can this black fluid cause me to not have any pedal? (Clutch will not disengage at all). Also, can this fluid have caused my master (a tick adjustable) to go bad? How can I tell if it is bad?

Thanks for all of your help folks, as always, I appreciate it greatly.

Brian

 

I'll be watching this thread. Mine is really black, never been changed and planned on doing a bleed this weekend.

 

I've never had any luck bleeding the system on the car. I take off the master and bleed it on a bench. Its seems to work for me everytime. PM me if you need help doing it, im 1hr south of baltimore.

 

All the bubbles youre seeing indicates you have a ton of air in the system.
It only took me 5 minutes with the mityvac & my pedal was terrible before. Would go straight to the floor, very limp. After the mityvac it was very firm & hard to push.
The dark fluid shouldnt make your new master cylinder go bad but I would get all of that fluid out until you only see new clean fluid.

 

Thanks a bunch. I was worried that perhaps the air coming out that much was an indication that I had a leak or something. I feel a lot better now that you've chimed in. Thank you.

 

what would be the best way to flush it out?

 

I would assume just bleeding it like normal. As I was bleeding it I was getting lots of dark fluid out. Using the mityvac just made it go a lot faster.

 

Leave the bleeder open & keep adding fresh fluid to the reservoir, until it comes out clean. This may take a few small bottles of brake fluid. Then use the mityvac to get the air out.

 

is the mityvac something you can rent at autozone etc..?? Alot seem to use this method just curious it seems faster.

 

I bought mine off amazon or similar for about 30.

 

UPDATE:

Hey all, let me ask your opinion.

I'm using the mityvac in the reservoir hole and I pump it about 10 times (not sure what that vacuum is, could someone translate how many pumps gets you to what vaccum?) and see a bunch of 1/8-1/4" diameter bubbles come out. After a few minutes the bubbles slow to one per minute and I then slowly pump the clutch pedal 1-3 times and more bubbles come out, then slow to a trickle. I then pump the clutch 1-3 more times and more bubbles come out. I've continued this cycle for about 10 times so far and when I release the vacuum and reinstall the bladder and cap on the reservoir I still have a very spongy pedal (enough that I can not disengage the clutch at all whatsoever).

I'm more than willing to do this bleeding method for hours if need be, but does it sound normal that there is THAT much air in the system? I did NOT fill the slave prior to installing, and I installed a speedbleeder which adds a 40" line to the system. SO, I know there will be a lot of air, and it's probably compressed in there, but I have no idea how much is there. The pedal is soft, but not "right to the floor" soft, there is still SOME tension.

Anyone at all? I'll be okay with any advice at all. Thank you all very much.

 

ive always had luck using 2 person manual bleed your buddy presses the clutch you open the bleeder, close it, then he releases, repeat until he cannot feel his leg anymore
be very careful you dont bleed the master dry otherwise you will be bleeding for days

 

Bench bleed it! The other ways (mity vac, pump and hold, etc.)will work IF theres not much air in the system. Sounds like you have a bunch. When you put the master on a bench you can maneuver the master and its lines around in different positions to let air escape in ways that cant be done on the car. I"ve had to do several cars this way (including mine), works everytime.

 

That's looking like a great idea. How does this get air out of the slave? Or is that not a concern?

Will the mityvac method work...eventually? I have no problem doing this for hours (this is a lot easier than taking the master out of the car, heh).

Thanks for all the help folks.

 

Do the car has a stock clutch in, or have u upgraded it.

 

I just installed a monster stage 2. It has a brand new slave, and a tick adjustable master that is about 6 months old.

 

I tried alot of ways to bleed mine. I got the best results with a syringe u can buy from the auto store.what u want to do is take the syringe and suck up some break fluid with it, make sure u turn it up to push out the air first.take off your resivoir top in put the syringe inside the hole in the resivoir.make sure it fit snug. If it don't use one of the pieces from your mity vac set. Inject the fluid in slowly till u can't push anymore in but before u take it out hold in for a about 1min so the remaining air floats up threw ur syringe.make sure your resivoir is full.what pressure u have built up in the line is going to suck more fluid in as you take out the syringe. Take out slow cause some fluid may shoot up if it all the way full, but don't be alarmed. Try that till u have the desired peddle feel. Let me know how that works for u.

 

I sure wouldnt remove the master & bench bleed it when its already been working & on the car for 6 months. How can that possibly be the problem? Its not. Its gotta be the slave thats full of air since its new & never fully bled. I would just open the bleeder & run a quart of new brake fluid through it, then mityvac it the rest of the way. After I installed my LS7 clutch & new slave, I too had problems getting the air out just opening the bleeder, after 2 hours of trying that I could not get any kind of pedal. This was with the stock master cyl too & that didnt have any air in it before the clutch job. Called it a day, went home. Very frustrating, & I have did several clutch jobs in the past with a new slave cyl & just pumping the pedal 100 times brought the pedal back. Just never on F-bodys. Got online & found out about the mityvac trick & all I can say is in 5 minutes all the air was out.

 

[QUOTE=Gatsby;15306780]That's looking like a great idea. How does this get air out of the slave? Or is that not a concern?

QUOTE]

I have extra slave cylinder laying around that I take apart so that I can use the female end of the quick connect fitting. I take that piece and add a clear hose to it. Now I setup the master the bench and clamp it down, then support the reservoir in the air with wire (or however you like), now I take the female connector and connect it together and loop the clear hose in the air (just like the reservoir) and dumping the end in the reservoir. Your simply looping the hydraulic system with a opening to let out air. Secure all the hoses. Now slowly pump the master while making sure not to run the reservoir dry and watch for bubbles. They will come out like crazy then slowly start to fad out. If you look closely you will see very tiny bubbles for awhile. Those will go away as long as you dont pump the rod to fast, just give them time to reach the end of the clear hose. Once your satisfied that theres no air in the lines, put the cap on your reservoir, disconnect the quick fitting and put it back on the car. Once on the car you notice a huge difference but there still might be air in the slave cylinder so you need to bleed it a couple of times and then you should be go to go. Hope this helps

 

lmao!!!