Can't get it into third
The simple test for clutch drag is to see if you can shift easily into any gear, including reverse, after sitting with the engine running and the clutch pedal undepressed for 30 seconds. If there is any resistance, you likely have clutch drag. In addition to the slave cylinder, which you have already replaced, and the master cylinder that you have, other causes of clutch drag include:
1. Pedal blocked from full travel.
2. Too much travel between pedal and clutch master cylinder or worn pedal bushings.
3. Clutch pedal mounting loose.
4. Linkage at pedal worn or damaged.
5. Air in clutch hydraulic system.
6. Damaged clutch assembly components. This includes damaged clutch disc, hub, splines, bent clutch disc, bent drive straps, broken or warped pressure plate.
7. Excessive side loading on the release bearing.
8. Faulty pilot bearing.
9. Transmission input shaft splines are worn or damaged.
10. Tight or contaminated clutch disc splines.
11. Flywheel housing, engine block to clutch housing, or transmission front case excessively misaligned.
12. Grease or oil contamination on the clutch disc facing.
13. Loose, broken, or faulty motor mounts.
Once our kit is correctly installed/adjusted, if the problem still exists, you have an internal transmission issue.


