Input shaft was rubbing on slave.. how to fix before replacement..?
10-16-2011, 12:30 PM
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Input shaft was rubbing on slave.. how to fix before replacement..? So I thought I had rounded off my input shaft..
turns out, it was just rubbing on the slave cylinder and that was all the aluminum from the inside of it..
so I guess im just gonna buy a new slave cylinder, its only like 68 bucks at autozone.. question is.. what caused this.. obviously I dont want to spend 70 bucks and have it happen again.. I couldnt hear any grinding when the trans was in the car so im not too positive.. and its perfectly rounded off all the way around the cylinder so I wouldnt that the bell housing isnt straight since that would lead the just one section of it being ground off..
my second question is my cylinder had two different looking bolts on it.. both with tiny lock washers.. are you suppose to have lock washers on the two bolts?
last issue is the green seal/spacer thingy mabobber..
what is the green piece? how do I know if I need to replace it or not?
thank is advance for all the help.
turns out, it was just rubbing on the slave cylinder and that was all the aluminum from the inside of it..
so I guess im just gonna buy a new slave cylinder, its only like 68 bucks at autozone.. question is.. what caused this.. obviously I dont want to spend 70 bucks and have it happen again.. I couldnt hear any grinding when the trans was in the car so im not too positive.. and its perfectly rounded off all the way around the cylinder so I wouldnt that the bell housing isnt straight since that would lead the just one section of it being ground off..
my second question is my cylinder had two different looking bolts on it.. both with tiny lock washers.. are you suppose to have lock washers on the two bolts?
last issue is the green seal/spacer thingy mabobber..
what is the green piece? how do I know if I need to replace it or not?
thank is advance for all the help.
10-16-2011, 02:03 PM
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It was running out of alignment. It could be a bad pilot bearing, missing dowel pin from the mid plate or engine to bellhousing. It could also be an issue with the bellhousing itself. It could also be from the shimming on the unit itself being way too loose allowing the shaft to move up or down more than it is suppose to.
Long story short, find out what it is and fix it. You should be able to take the shaft and run it on a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it. That should buff out the excessive aluminum in the splines. It might not get it all off but as long as none of it is higher than than the splines, you should be fine. Get as much off as you can and reuse it if the rest of the gear looks ok.
Long story short, find out what it is and fix it. You should be able to take the shaft and run it on a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it. That should buff out the excessive aluminum in the splines. It might not get it all off but as long as none of it is higher than than the splines, you should be fine. Get as much off as you can and reuse it if the rest of the gear looks ok.
10-16-2011, 02:03 PM
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The input end-play is supported by the large bearing at the base of the shaft and the small bearing on the mainshaft. Lateral play at the other end is set by the pilot bearing. All those need inspection and possible replacement; endplay in the trans. needs checked. And the shim & slave need retained properly to the adapter plate.
GM slave bolts are M6 x 1.0 and as long as will properly fit is good. Use loctite red.
In the "Manual Transmission Stickied Threads" at the top of the forum is a thread about whether your trans./clutch need a shim.
my second question is my cylinder had two different looking bolts on it.. both with tiny lock washers.. are you suppose to have lock washers on the two bolts?
what is the green piece? how do I know if I need to replace it or not?
10-16-2011, 02:16 PM
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The input end-play is supported by the large bearing at the base of the shaft and the small bearing on the mainshaft. Lateral play at the other end is set by the pilot bearing. All those need inspection and possible replacement; endplay in the trans. needs checked. And the shim & slave need retained properly to the adapter plate.
GM slave bolts are M6 x 1.0 and as long as will properly fit is good. Use loctite red.
In the "Manual Transmission Stickied Threads" at the top of the forum is a thread about whether your trans./clutch need a shim.
GM slave bolts are M6 x 1.0 and as long as will properly fit is good. Use loctite red.
In the "Manual Transmission Stickied Threads" at the top of the forum is a thread about whether your trans./clutch need a shim.
as for end play, the guy who helped me said it was close enough to that 2 thousandths or w/e they call it. I will go ahead and replace the pilot bearing while in here, i take it that its just like my old mustang. i need a slide hammer and that inverted claw tool? and do i need to take the clutch off to get it and out?
10-16-2011, 07:51 PM
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