High RPM shift issues... Please help!!!!
High RPM shift issues... Please help!!!! I have issues with my vehicle shifting at high rpms, anything over 5500 and you have to wait for the rpms to fall below 5000 to engage the next gear. I have read multiple post with the tick master being the solution, my only problem is the vehicle has a new tick master, new spec 2 clutch, new aluminum flywheel, quick time bellhousing, gm master cylinder, new pilot bearing. The bell housing has indexed and my air gap and it is .06" I have also tried a different transmission and started with a mcleod twin disc and had the same problems. At this point I am lost so any info would be geatly appreciated.
Forgot to mention that I dont think there is any air in the system because you can unhook quick disconnect and press the pedal and it is rock hard, also during normal driving the pedal releases half way up and the master cylinder is getting full stroke.
Thanks,
..RJ..
Forgot to mention that I dont think there is any air in the system because you can unhook quick disconnect and press the pedal and it is rock hard, also during normal driving the pedal releases half way up and the master cylinder is getting full stroke.
Thanks,
..RJ..
Assuming there's no physical damage in the trans, it's either the clutch not fully releasing or the blocker rings are shot. Have you put the car on a level surface in 1st gear with the clutch in and brought the rpm above 5500? If the car creeps forward the clutch is dragging.
Since you have had two different clutch and transmissions in the car and both did the same thing I would be most apt to think that this is relative to a weakness in the slave and or master. If you sit with the pedal depressed as you would at a stop-light or stop-sign do you notice the car beginning to creep?
yes if you put the transmission in gear on a level surface and depress the clutch. Then rev the engine to 5500 rpm's it will pull the vehicle forward. And no it does not creep at a light. The only thing that I can find that is not up to par is the air gap is.006" without the spacer provided. This to me is on the small end of the allowed tolerance and if my thought are correct this number will decrease with wear. I have removed the clutch and reinstalled it. Torqued everything and even tried a different slave and I always get the same measurement. And yes I did break the bleeder to make sure the slave is all the way back.
The proper window for operation is .175" and .225" between the A and B measurement. Are you referencing the included measurement sheet? If not do you have an email address, I could send it to you. Thanks!
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: California
clutch i'm installing a new clutch very soon to get rid of that exact problem.I can get through a run(cold) without being locked out but when the clutch gets warmed up it's over.Been through all the hydraulics,drill mod,bleeding,mighty vac.oh and the pedal always gets spongy after a race...i think it's from the clutch splines not disengaging at high rpms.so when you push in the clutch the fluid gets forced out instead of the clutch being forced in.I'll try and let u know how it goes.pm maybe
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Newest update. The spec clutch had a steel flywheel and I opted to go with a ram aluminum flywheel. With my air gap being less then what is required I decided to pull the flywheel and sure enough it is near 1/8" thicker then the steel spec flywheel. So I decide to lay the shim that is supposed to be used with the slave on top of the flywheel and now both flywheels are near the same height. So essentially if I were to change flywheels only then my air gap is going to be to big, and if I add the provided spacer then the air gap will be smaller then what I started with. So I go and grab a ram hd disc and pressure plate, both new might I add off of the shelf and first thing as soon as I open the box I find directions that state my air gap for this setup should be .600-.700 towards the engaged side of the pressure plate. See enclosed picture. So Now I am the point where nothing really makes any sense. But logically thinking if my air gap is to small but there is still a gap present, how or why would this affect disengagement? To me the only thing that lack of air gap would affect is it would make the clutch slip prematurely because the clutch is actually on the verge of being disengaged when it is actually engaged. Is this info correct? Any new ideas? Has ram lost their mind or is this an older setup that requires something different? I have had the ram setup for about 2yrs I think.
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Verdad Gallardo Badamn What slave and clutch are you running? Also have you flushed your hydraulics condensation can cause a lower boiling and then when the line is so close to the exhaust it boils the water and you end up with tiny air bubbles in your system.
After further inspection the ram flywheel is actually.010" thinner then the spec steel, I was measuring the total width not the mounting surface to disc surface. Anyways I decided to check run out on the ran flywheel and it was +/- .004 so that was within specs so I decided to put the spec flywheel and ram hd setup in to check a measurement and my air gap with no shims is 0.224" so I will be putting the transmission in today and let everyone know what the outcome is.
Sorry for the delayed reply but I have been very busy and haven't had much time to get online. Anyways I installed the spec flywheel and ram hd pressure plate and disc and boom everything works like it is supposed to no issues with shifting in any gear, the rear wheels can be off the ground and engine can see 7200rpms in any gear and they don't even begin to move the least little bit. So now my question is, If I have an airgap with the spec, that is less then what is supposed to be doesn't that mean that when the clutch is depressed the space between the flywheel the disc and the pressure plate would be greater then what is needed? Logically think that is what makes sense to me. Keeping that in mind it seems as if a release issue wouldn't be the problem and if you had any issues at all it would be the clutch would slip. To me it is like the disc is to thin but it is new and it is .310" which is what spec claims it should be. Therefore I am uncertain of what the issues where with the spec setup. This to me is a real shame because I never had any clutch slip and I have had several different clutch setups and like the engagement and pedal feel of this one over all others. Anyways thanks to everyone who has helped with my issues and if anyone has any insight I am still curious to know what the real problem was and not just swap out parts.
Having a shorter distance between the bearing face and the fingers would mean that the clutch would be more apt to slip which is seemingly the opposite of what you are seeing. What was the measurement you found?
I am not completely sure what you are asking but the write faso on the spec clutch and flywheel with the ram flywheel is.006" and the ran flywheel is.010" thinner then the provided spec flywheel.
