Cutch issues....replacement?
This prob is so weird, Took the car for a ride last night and havent had a chance to replace the clutch yet. Why can I stomp on this thing in first and it rips good and the clutch holds, yet anything over say 20-30% throttle in any other gears and it starts slipping? So I should get one of the shim kits as listed above, a new throw out bearing and anytihing else I should do while its out?
...we also sell the GM Slave Cylinder & Throw-Out Bearing for a good price: http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-sl...or-ls1-f-body/
...and if you don't mind waiting for shipping, our LS1tech Group Purchase on LS1 F-Body kits is going on right now: https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...save-74-a.html
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Verdad Gallardo All of our dealers list our kit for the same price we do - $324.99: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
...we also sell the GM Slave Cylinder & Throw-Out Bearing for a good price: http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-sl...or-ls1-f-body/
...and if you don't mind waiting for shipping, our LS1tech Group Purchase on LS1 F-Body kits is going on right now: https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...save-74-a.html
...we also sell the GM Slave Cylinder & Throw-Out Bearing for a good price: http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-sl...or-ls1-f-body/
...and if you don't mind waiting for shipping, our LS1tech Group Purchase on LS1 F-Body kits is going on right now: https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...save-74-a.html
does this spacer happen to go between the flywheel and the engine? I found something in there that I havent seen before. Its round and was what I would assume to be kinda like a flywheel spacer or flywheel shim but ive never heard of such a thing...?
Sorry for the delayed response...I was at SEMA last week and have been playing catch-up since my return to the office. The first think I suggest doing is checking the thickness of the disc on this "lightly used" clutch. You are already experiencing the sometimes variable interpretation of those words and it would be better to be safe than sorry. Let me know the thickness of the disc which measured with a caliper. Also, let me know when the parts were originally purchased if you have that info. As for measuring, this is imperative and strongly suggested to insure that your heights are within spec, especially when using used parts. If you have an email I can send you our measurement sheet. Thanks and let me know if you have any further questions.
Update- Pulled the clutch, has .672-.678 thickness left on the disc and doesnt look that bad I dont think. Flywheel has alot of hot spots and so does the pressure plate but I think that could be because I kept driving it even with it slipping...only thing I found kinda strange is the spring on the slave isnt as strong as the new one I bought, could that have cause slipping? Also looks like the previous owner was running a pretty big slave shim and a flywheel spacer or something, not sure what it is, ive never seen one before but it was between the flywheel and the engine. From looking I dont think the flywheel was ever turned. Any of this sound like it could have been my issue???
You need to measure the flywheel thickness and compare it to a new one. The reason the shim was behind the flywheel is because it PROBABLY has been surfaced by the amount of the shim. It is very important to proper clutch operation that the flywheel surface be in the proper location with relation to the throw out bearing surface. This ensures your throw out bearing will release the clutch. You absolutely need to check your measurements. Oh...by the way...I would NEVER, EVER replace a worn clutch without giving it a new surface to use. Surface the wheel or get a new one.
You need to measure the flywheel thickness and compare it to a new one. The reason the shim was behind the flywheel is because it PROBABLY has been surfaced by the amount of the shim. It is very important to proper clutch operation that the flywheel surface be in the proper location with relation to the throw out bearing surface. This ensures your throw out bearing will release the clutch. You absolutely need to check your measurements. Oh...by the way...I would NEVER, EVER replace a worn clutch without giving it a new surface to use. Surface the wheel or get a new one.
If the flywheel is not properly placed in relation to the throwout bearing, you could have a clutch that won't release, or just the opposite...and damages the pressure plate by pushing too far. If you have a new flywheel, you are probably fine without any shimming necessary. But you absolutely want to use the measurements given here and double check. You know...measure twice, cut once type of deal.
Update- finally got this done, ended up using a brand new flywheel so I did not re-use what appeared to be a flywheel shim that was already in there as I assumed it was to compensate for a resurfaced flywheel, and I re-used the slave shim that was in there already as it was already a spec 1 clutch in there and thats what went in. Grabs great, and does not creep forward when cars in gear and reved up. Only problem I'm having is it engages too close to the floor, like an inch off the floor. Any ideas on what could be the issue or how to fix/adjust that? I also installed a brand new Slave ans am running the prestone Dot 4 synthetic if it matters.
Also the pedal doesn't seem quite as firm as it used to be mostly in the first part of pedal travel, until it disengages the clutch. I am confident I have all the air out as I bled the f*ck out of this thing and used a mityvac on the MC up to 15 on the gauge until I couldnt get anymore bubbles. Could this be because of the low engagement point and shimming issues?
Also the pedal doesn't seem quite as firm as it used to be mostly in the first part of pedal travel, until it disengages the clutch. I am confident I have all the air out as I bled the f*ck out of this thing and used a mityvac on the MC up to 15 on the gauge until I couldnt get anymore bubbles. Could this be because of the low engagement point and shimming issues?
Last edited by HottLS1Z; Dec 24, 2011 at 07:51 AM.
It does seem to fully disengage, but just from what you said in this post, im guessing the Tick can change the engagement point on the pedal?