Master or slave?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 7
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From: Memphis
Master or slave? I just bought this '04 GTO M6 and have had trouble getting in in gear and shifting at WOT. The clutch does not slip. I had planned to change the MC but after I drove it for a couple days in a row, I couldn't get it in gear to move it out of the way in the driveway. The peddle went to the floor limp. I checked the fluid (I had sucked the black fluid out and aded new fluid already) and had to add. I looked under the car and saw a small puddle of black fluid. So now I am thinking the slave is leaking.
I haven't messed with it for a couple months. I have been thinking about replacing the clutch, flywheel, MC and slave but I can't stop thinking about the fact that the clutch does not slip. I really don't have what I need to drop the trans in my garage right now. Should I try the master and bleed everything? There was fluid coming out of the housing. I thought the OEM slave cylinders were good.
67k miles and I have only put 2k on it myself. I would rather be spending money on other things I wanted to do first.
I haven't messed with it for a couple months. I have been thinking about replacing the clutch, flywheel, MC and slave but I can't stop thinking about the fact that the clutch does not slip. I really don't have what I need to drop the trans in my garage right now. Should I try the master and bleed everything? There was fluid coming out of the housing. I thought the OEM slave cylinders were good.
67k miles and I have only put 2k on it myself. I would rather be spending money on other things I wanted to do first.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Memphis
If I do it all, should I go with a stage 2 or 3 monster/tick package? I do plan on adding power but is the stage 3 streetable enough to be stuck in traffic with it and would it be anymore indestructable? I am not sure I'll get to 700hp any time soon either but its only another $150 bucks.
http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
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From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
Well, if youre lucky its just the master leaking. see if you can track the leak. make sure you closed all the bleeders, etc. Not Ive always been told that if you replace the master you ought to replace the slave at the same time. Never got a good logical explanation as to why....but Ive always done it regardless. But IF you you have to replace the slave and IF you have to pull the tranny anyway, then why not put in a new clutch anyway?
If I do it all, should I go with a stage 2 or 3 monster/tick package? I do plan on adding power but is the stage 3 streetable enough to be stuck in traffic with it and would it be anymore indestructable? I am not sure I'll get to 700hp any time soon either but its only another $150 bucks.
http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
The Monster you should choose is the one that is rated to hold the amount of power you plan to make - no more, no less. The Stage 3 is a puck style clutch so it won't drive as nice or last as long as the Levels 1 or 2. Do you plan on making more than 550 rear-wheel horsepower? If not, stick with the Level 2. Over-clutching a car can be just as bad as under-clutching one!
I'm glad you found our COMPLETE Clutch Swap Package - it's certainly a great value and very smart to replace/upgrade everything at once.
The Monster you should choose is the one that is rated to hold the amount of power you plan to make - no more, no less. The Stage 3 is a puck style clutch so it won't drive as nice or last as long as the Levels 1 or 2. Do you plan on making more than 550 rear-wheel horsepower? If not, stick with the Level 2. Over-clutching a car can be just as bad as under-clutching one!
The Monster you should choose is the one that is rated to hold the amount of power you plan to make - no more, no less. The Stage 3 is a puck style clutch so it won't drive as nice or last as long as the Levels 1 or 2. Do you plan on making more than 550 rear-wheel horsepower? If not, stick with the Level 2. Over-clutching a car can be just as bad as under-clutching one!
And to add, if you plan on turning up the power or beating the hell out of it at the strip opt for the 3.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 7
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From: Memphis
Thanks. Stage 2 it is. I need to be able to drive it on the street where I get to play the most. I don't make it to the track very often.
Hopefully I'll order it and get to work after the Holidays and everyone else has what they want. Then Daddy will get to play again.
Hopefully I'll order it and get to work after the Holidays and everyone else has what they want. Then Daddy will get to play again.
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