Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Master or slave?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-09-2011, 07:42 PM
  #1  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
steelman223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Memphis
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Master or slave?

I just bought this '04 GTO M6 and have had trouble getting in in gear and shifting at WOT. The clutch does not slip. I had planned to change the MC but after I drove it for a couple days in a row, I couldn't get it in gear to move it out of the way in the driveway. The peddle went to the floor limp. I checked the fluid (I had sucked the black fluid out and aded new fluid already) and had to add. I looked under the car and saw a small puddle of black fluid. So now I am thinking the slave is leaking.

I haven't messed with it for a couple months. I have been thinking about replacing the clutch, flywheel, MC and slave but I can't stop thinking about the fact that the clutch does not slip. I really don't have what I need to drop the trans in my garage right now. Should I try the master and bleed everything? There was fluid coming out of the housing. I thought the OEM slave cylinders were good.

67k miles and I have only put 2k on it myself. I would rather be spending money on other things I wanted to do first.
Old 11-09-2011, 07:56 PM
  #2  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
steelman223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Memphis
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If I do it all, should I go with a stage 2 or 3 monster/tick package? I do plan on adding power but is the stage 3 streetable enough to be stuck in traffic with it and would it be anymore indestructable? I am not sure I'll get to 700hp any time soon either but its only another $150 bucks.

http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
Old 11-09-2011, 07:58 PM
  #3  
Banned
iTrader: (4)
 
ilovechevy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hinesville GA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

awww man..I thought this was gona be a racist joke thread by the name of it
Old 11-09-2011, 08:52 PM
  #4  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
 
UMD_Jesse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Well, if youre lucky its just the master leaking. see if you can track the leak. make sure you closed all the bleeders, etc. Not Ive always been told that if you replace the master you ought to replace the slave at the same time. Never got a good logical explanation as to why....but Ive always done it regardless. But IF you you have to replace the slave and IF you have to pull the tranny anyway, then why not put in a new clutch anyway?
Old 11-10-2011, 10:15 AM
  #5  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (20)
 
Joey@Tick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mount Airy, NC
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by steelman223
If I do it all, should I go with a stage 2 or 3 monster/tick package? I do plan on adding power but is the stage 3 streetable enough to be stuck in traffic with it and would it be anymore indestructable? I am not sure I'll get to 700hp any time soon either but its only another $150 bucks.

http://www.tickperformance.com/04-06...-swap-package/
I'm glad you found our COMPLETE Clutch Swap Package - it's certainly a great value and very smart to replace/upgrade everything at once.

The Monster you should choose is the one that is rated to hold the amount of power you plan to make - no more, no less. The Stage 3 is a puck style clutch so it won't drive as nice or last as long as the Levels 1 or 2. Do you plan on making more than 550 rear-wheel horsepower? If not, stick with the Level 2. Over-clutching a car can be just as bad as under-clutching one!
Old 11-11-2011, 11:44 AM
  #6  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (15)
 
SNLPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Joey@Tick
I'm glad you found our COMPLETE Clutch Swap Package - it's certainly a great value and very smart to replace/upgrade everything at once.

The Monster you should choose is the one that is rated to hold the amount of power you plan to make - no more, no less. The Stage 3 is a puck style clutch so it won't drive as nice or last as long as the Levels 1 or 2. Do you plan on making more than 550 rear-wheel horsepower? If not, stick with the Level 2. Over-clutching a car can be just as bad as under-clutching one!
Agreed.

And to add, if you plan on turning up the power or beating the hell out of it at the strip opt for the 3.
Old 11-15-2011, 07:08 PM
  #7  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
steelman223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Memphis
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks. Stage 2 it is. I need to be able to drive it on the street where I get to play the most. I don't make it to the track very often.

Hopefully I'll order it and get to work after the Holidays and everyone else has what they want. Then Daddy will get to play again.
Old 11-19-2011, 10:07 PM
  #8  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
steelman223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Memphis
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Transmission is out. It wasn't that bad but that top bolt on the bell housing with the bracket on it was a pain in the ***.



Quick Reply: Master or slave?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:25 AM.