Here we go again, clutch hard after a hard run**FIXED, SOLUTION INSIDE**
#22
TECH Resident
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's aggravating that common problems that happen to these LS hydraulic clutches don't really seem to have clear answers
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
My car definitely isn't right. Not only does the clutch start to engage with the pedal close to the floor, but occasionally it's hard to get into first gear as well.
I even noticed, once in a while, the clutch will chatter a bit on take off
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
#27
TECH Resident
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think that anything with cars is possible. It just seems strange that my car only has 25,000 babied miles on it and the clutch system was always smooth as silk and never caused me to give it a second thought. Then, all of a sudden, the clutch pedal sticks to the floor and now I've got continuing clutch problems.
As a mentioned in post #22, I noticed some clutch chattering the last time I drove the car. This car's clutch has never, I repeat NEVER EVER, EVER chattered!
As a mentioned in post #22, I noticed some clutch chattering the last time I drove the car. This car's clutch has never, I repeat NEVER EVER, EVER chattered!
#28
TECH Resident
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
#30
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got to thinking about this, I have had 3 5.0 Mustangs, I beat the living **** out of those cars and never ONCE had an issue like these cars have. The difference? The Mustang is cable operated release, our cars are hydraulic.
Clutches in both cars operate the same way other than the difference in how you release and apply the clutch.
Clutches in both cars operate the same way other than the difference in how you release and apply the clutch.
#31
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I dont see my pressure plate being bad after a 1000 miles and probably 15 total powershifts.
I think its a slave issue, mine has a Tick master in it.
I dont think the slave cant tolerate heat, you overheat it and the it does something to the seals.
I am too old to just take it down to put a slave in and test it, but I may do it any way.
I think its a slave issue, mine has a Tick master in it.
I dont think the slave cant tolerate heat, you overheat it and the it does something to the seals.
I am too old to just take it down to put a slave in and test it, but I may do it any way.
#32
TECH Resident
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just got 100% confirmation that my slave is bad. A retired mechanic from my church came over and he opened my clutch master cylinder cap and pulled out the rubber thing. The level was about 1/4" below the line. When my father-in-law and I changed the fluid last week, we had the new level just a hair above that line.
I jacked up the front of my car and noticed the wet spot on the bellhousing was bigger than before. I then jacked the rear end of the car way up and hydraulic fluid came pouring out of the hole/slot in the bellhousing
.
The good news is that I now know what is wrong with my car.
Good luck FASTFATBOY on finding out what's wrong with yours.
I jacked up the front of my car and noticed the wet spot on the bellhousing was bigger than before. I then jacked the rear end of the car way up and hydraulic fluid came pouring out of the hole/slot in the bellhousing
![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
The good news is that I now know what is wrong with my car.
Good luck FASTFATBOY on finding out what's wrong with yours.