wont shift into gear when running
#1
wont shift into gear when running
new clutch, resurfaced flywheel and new slave cylinder. car goes into gear when not on but when you turn the motor on it will not go into gear. if you push the clutch in and try to put it into a gear the car will not go into gear but will lurch forward a tiny bit as if it wants to drive away. does this mean i need to shim the slave?
**** me
**** me
#3
last time i tried to gravity bleed the system. this time i did the mighty vac on the master cylinder method for 40 minutes and still wont go into gear. in fact when the car isnt on i have to mash it in order to get it into gear. the clutch pedal comes all the way up and feels like it should
#4
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iTrader: (5)
It is a good idea to measure for a shim during an install, but a shim isn't going to remedy your issue. When everything is assembled, the throw out bearing is pressed up against the pressure plate due to the spring that sits between the tob and the slave. Once assembled, there is no gap to be maintained by a shim, a shim is just a method to keep the slave operating within its range of motion.
If the clutch feels firm and as it should in terms of pedal effort it is likely that you have a clutch issue. What type of clutch do you have?
Your problem could be a warped clutch disk or even a disk that was manufactured to thick. It could also be a faulty pressure plate. This is assuming that your hydraulics are working as you describe and everything is bled properly.
Even if you damaged the pilot bearing during install, it could be binding on the tip of the input which would cause the input to continue to turn even though the clutch was disengaged properly....
If the clutch feels firm and as it should in terms of pedal effort it is likely that you have a clutch issue. What type of clutch do you have?
Your problem could be a warped clutch disk or even a disk that was manufactured to thick. It could also be a faulty pressure plate. This is assuming that your hydraulics are working as you describe and everything is bled properly.
Even if you damaged the pilot bearing during install, it could be binding on the tip of the input which would cause the input to continue to turn even though the clutch was disengaged properly....
#5
It is a good idea to measure for a shim during an install, but a shim isn't going to remedy your issue. When everything is assembled, the throw out bearing is pressed up against the pressure plate due to the spring that sits between the tob and the slave. Once assembled, there is no gap to be maintained by a shim, a shim is just a method to keep the slave operating within its range of motion.
If the clutch feels firm and as it should in terms of pedal effort it is likely that you have a clutch issue. What type of clutch do you have?
Your problem could be a warped clutch disk or even a disk that was manufactured to thick. It could also be a faulty pressure plate. This is assuming that your hydraulics are working as you describe and everything is bled properly.
Even if you damaged the pilot bearing during install, it could be binding on the tip of the input which would cause the input to continue to turn even though the clutch was disengaged properly....
If the clutch feels firm and as it should in terms of pedal effort it is likely that you have a clutch issue. What type of clutch do you have?
Your problem could be a warped clutch disk or even a disk that was manufactured to thick. It could also be a faulty pressure plate. This is assuming that your hydraulics are working as you describe and everything is bled properly.
Even if you damaged the pilot bearing during install, it could be binding on the tip of the input which would cause the input to continue to turn even though the clutch was disengaged properly....